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Old 09-24-2010, 12:13 AM   #1
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power problems

Hello all,I purchased a 2011 ckts sabre on tue, I purchased an adapter cord, It has a 50 amp to the 5er and two leads to plug into, A 30 amp and a regular extension cord. I notice today that the battery is completly dead. My extension does have power to it. But nothing inside the camper will work, (lights, fridge, fan, tv etc)... So I pulled the truck up to it and hooked up the pigtail from the hitch to the plug in on the truck and everything works as normal. Any help on the problem I am having. Thank you. I leave on a 1200 mile trip tomorrow and just discoved this problem.
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:38 AM   #2
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What did you plug in (shore Power wise) at home? Do you have a place to plug in both cords on the pigtail or did you just plug in the 20 amp extension cord leg and not use the 30 amp leg?

If you only used the 20 amp leg (the part with a "regular" 110AC plug) you were most likely not powering the converter.

I don't have a 50 amp rig or know how your pigtail is actually wired, so this is conjecture. It would make sense that the 30AMP leg would power all your rig (Including the converter) except the 2nd AC and some other "heavy draw item" that came off the 20 amp leg. So if you just plugged in the 20 amp cord of the pigtail the converter would not be powered and your battery would discharge.

Use a 30/20 amp adapter plug on the 30 amp pigtail and plug that into your 20 amp shorepower source and see if that fixes your issue.
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:59 AM   #3
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Go out and get a 50 to 20 adapter. That is what you need. That cheater pigtail. Is for cg's that only have a 30 amp. It splits the 2 legs of the normal 50.
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:01 AM   #4
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I agree with mowat.

A 50 amp RV is not really one 50 amp ckt.
You have two hot wires each with 110 volts.
One supplies 30 amps & the other 20 amps.

When youíre plugged into a 50 amp service everything in the RV is juiced up.
When you plug into a 30 amp the convertor does the switching as demand is needed in the RV.
Plugging into the 20 amp will just power up a couple outlets or devices but leave most of the RV dead.

Thereís a video out there that does a real good job explaining how a 50 amp system works but I canít remember what site I saw it on.
Sad thing is I watched it only a week ago & thought I book marked it.
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:45 AM   #5
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It was early morning quick explanation... :-)

A little more about that cheater which a sales guy tried to talk me into as well.

The cheater pigtail takes the 4 poles ( 2 positive 2 neg .. and I know this is 100% correct but it's a good simple explanation ).. which combined makes up 220 volts. When you use the pigtail it splits it into 2 110's. The converter on RV can't function if it doesn't have 220 volts. It can function with 20amp ( you'll just blow your house fuse if you pull more than 20amp.

BUT if you don't connect both of those pigtail ends you will not generate the full 220 volts. This is the part that they don't explain when they talk you into this thing. It's a ok tool if you only have a 30amp and a 20amp circuit at a campsite but you HAVE to plug in both of them.

Some links

This is what you want

50-Amp-to-15-Amp Twist-Lock Adapter - Item - Camping World

( example only .. make sure you check the twist lock side )

This is what you have..

RV Cheater Box - 50 amps from 30 & 20

( wierd that campingworld doesn't carry this..
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:25 AM   #6
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Vinny,

http://www.americanrvcompany.com/ass...s/wf893050.pdf

This looks like a good representation of a 50 amp panel.
Yours should be similar.
There are an equal number of 120 volt AC circuits on each leg of the 220 inputs.

The 12VDC inverter circuit should be fed from one of the legs (not both). It sounds like the "20amp" leg is not the one.
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:03 AM   #7
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As has been discussed recently here on this board, itís best if you can get an electrician out to install a dedicated 30 or 50 amp line to the outside of your house/garage.
Donít just try & modify/replace the existing 15/20 amp outlet.
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mowat View Post
The converter on RV can't function if it doesn't have 220 volts. It can function with 20amp ( you'll just blow your house fuse if you pull more than 20amp.

BUT if you don't connect both of those pigtail ends you will not generate the full 220 volts.
WOW! OK for anyone who may read this in the future, listen up real carefully, THERE IS NOTHING ON AN RV THAT IS 220 VOLTS! DO NOT TRY AN CONNECT AN RV TO 220 VOLTS You will blow up the converter an anything else that is on and plugged in at the time.

Come on guys we need to be sure we are passing good information here that isn't going to lead someone to damage their RVs

Converters NEVER "run on 220 volts" they are 110volt only.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:06 PM   #9
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Listen to NW!

Here's how the "cheater" works.

The 30 amp plug is connected to one hot leg of the 50 amp circuit.
The 20 amp plug is connected to the other hot leg of the 50 amp circuit.
The "cheater" does NOT combine the 30 & 20 amp legs for 50 amps.
It can't combine them because there's no telling which phase each one will be on at any particular installation. In one instance they may be on the same phase and another, on different phases. BOOM!!!
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:13 PM   #10
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I said this was the simple explantion not the full details. The point is the same the inverter will not function with out both legs having power.

And yes NW I said 220 I meant 240. And the 50amp service plug is 240

The 50-amp 120/240-volt 3 pole 4
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