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Old 09-10-2015, 12:16 AM   #21
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Power to RV won't work. PLEASE HELP!

I agree with Crankshaft. The tiniest bit of water in an outlet or any connection controlled by a GFCI circuit with trip the GFCI outlet and kill every outlet on the loop. If you drove home through the rain or washed off the trailer or splashed water from a sink into one of these outlets, you could have the situation Crankshaft described. Ignore any and all advice about an inverter unless you can convince yourself you have one. Don't waste time worrying about having your cord plugged into your truck. That affects the 12volt part of your trailer and your issue seems to be in the 110 AC side. That never causes a problem with my trailer. Your CONverter allows those two systems to play together. I don't yet understand your findings regarding your microwave unless your extension cord is bad.


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Old 09-10-2015, 02:05 PM   #22
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Let's go back to the begining. I have a little yellow three pronged tester. Cost less than 10 dollars. It will tell you if your home outlet is properly wired. Did you hurt a simple three light system to detect open ground for reverse polarity. If the outlet checks okay then go to the down range end of the xx tension cord, to be sure there are no shorts or open circuits in it. A friend went crazy with a similar problem only to discover that he had both a bad outlet and a bad extension cord. If the outlet and the extension cord are good and you're using an appropriate gauge cord for the distance, then and only then you know the problem is in the coach. You might have got snookered by the seller, but before you assume that do a proper test
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Old 09-10-2015, 03:29 PM   #23
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Also check what else is on the same circuit in your house outlet that your camper is plugged into? If there are more items on it it's possible with just the converter and other parasite draws you were over amperage
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Old 09-10-2015, 03:33 PM   #24
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What is the length of the extension cord?

Here is the difference in a 15 and 20 amp outlet. AC or the microwave will draw quite a bit and with the cord being used, should be used with a 20amp outlet.

Did you try resetting the main on the camper and plugging into a different outlet?

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Old 09-10-2015, 04:09 PM   #25
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Let's go back to the original post and dissect a couple of things...

1. per your post... you plugged your camper into a 12ga. extension cord and then plugged the extension cord into a GFCI outlet which then tripped the GFCI outlet.
a. You would have needed a 30 amp to 15/20 adapter or dog bone to accomplish the connection between the camper wire and the extension cord. Is the adapter good? Maybe it is shorted out?

2. You then said... you plugged it into a 'regular adapter'. What does that mean?
Does it mean you plugged the 12ga. extension cord into a non-GFCI outlet or does it mean you used a different adapter between the 30 amp trailer wire and the 12ga. extension cord? If so... (again) is this 'regular adapter' OK.

3. You then said... you unplugged from the truck, flipped off the breakers and plugged back into the GFCI outlet.
As mentioned, you really shouldn't be utilizing a GFCI outlet to 'feed' your camper.
You CAN use a non-GFCI 15 amp circuit to feed your camper but you'll need to be cautious of what you can and/or can not turn on inside the camper.
You won't want to run the A/C or the hot water heater (on electric) or even possibly the microwave. but the outlets should work and the converter should provide 12v to that side of the system as well as charge the battery. A 20 amp outlet is better than a 15 but the vast majority of houses don't even have them.

Also, you didn't hurt anything by leaving the truck wire plugged in.

Give us a little more info on the scenarios I posted above and maybe we can help get to the bottom of this.
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:57 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Let's go back to the original post and dissect a couple of things...

1. per your post... you plugged your camper into a 12ga. extension cord and then plugged the extension cord into a GFCI outlet which then tripped the GFCI outlet.
a. You would have needed a 30 amp to 15/20 adapter or dog bone to accomplish the connection between the camper wire and the extension cord. Is the adapter good? Maybe it is shorted out?

2. You then said... you plugged it into a 'regular adapter'. What does that mean?
Does it mean you plugged the 12ga. extension cord into a non-GFCI outlet or does it mean you used a different adapter between the 30 amp trailer wire and the 12ga. extension cord? If so... (again) is this 'regular adapter' OK.

3. You then said... you unplugged from the truck, flipped off the breakers and plugged back into the GFCI outlet.
As mentioned, you really shouldn't be utilizing a GFCI outlet to 'feed' your camper.
You CAN use a non-GFCI 15 amp circuit to feed your camper but you'll need to be cautious of what you can and/or can not turn on inside the camper.
You won't want to run the A/C or the hot water heater (on electric) or even possibly the microwave. but the outlets should work and the converter should provide 12v to that side of the system as well as charge the battery. A 20 amp outlet is better than a 15 but the vast majority of houses don't even have them.

Also, you didn't hurt anything by leaving the truck wire plugged in.

Give us a little more info on the scenarios I posted above and maybe we can help get to the bottom of this.
Thank you for your detailed response. Here are the answers I have. Please excuse any terminology, as I don't know the proper name of some things.

1. I am using an adapter from the RV that adapts it to the grounded extension cable. I'm not sure if that's what you're meaning, though. The adapter was the same one the seller used to demo the RV to me, so I'm assuming it is working.

2. I plugged the same extension cable into a non GFCI outlet, using the same original adapter from the RV. The outlet functions normally for everything else it's used for. The extension cable is 80ft and does have a couple places that I've hard to wrap electrical tape around because of wear.

3. To word what I originally said a little better, when I plugged it into the GFCI outlet outside of my house it tripped the outlet immediately. When I plugged it into the non GFCI outlet inside of my house and tried to turn any switch on at the breaker in the RV it either didn't work or it flipped the breaker in the RV. I get no response at all either way out of my AC, fridge, or inside lights.


Hopefully I answered those enough to offer additional assistance.

If this continues to not work, am I able to run at least the AC and lights off of the 12V?

Thank you
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Old 09-11-2015, 12:04 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jch2122 View Post
Thank you for your detailed response. Here are the answers I have. Please excuse any terminology, as I don't know the proper name of some things.

1. I am using an adapter from the RV that adapts it to the grounded extension cable. I'm not sure if that's what you're meaning, though. The adapter was the same one the seller used to demo the RV to me, so I'm assuming it is working.

2. I plugged the same extension cable into a non GFCI outlet, using the same original adapter from the RV. The outlet functions normally for everything else it's used for. The extension cable is 80ft and does have a couple places that I've hard to wrap electrical tape around because of wear.

3. To word what I originally said a little better, when I plugged it into the GFCI outlet outside of my house it tripped the outlet immediately. When I plugged it into the non GFCI outlet inside of my house and tried to turn any switch on at the breaker in the RV it either didn't work or it flipped the breaker in the RV. I get no response at all either way out of my AC, fridge, or inside lights.


Hopefully I answered those enough to offer additional assistance.

If this continues to not work, am I able to run at least the AC and lights off of the 12V?

Thank you

You answered your own problem (red). The cord is providing the ground fault.

Most likely enough leakage with the abrasion in the cord in the grass would cause a GFCI to trip like it suppose to. Adding leakage from the RV itself would cause more.
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Old 09-11-2015, 10:24 AM   #28
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NO A/C on 12 volt everything 12 volt. Usually the lights, water pump and the Carbonmonoxide, propane and smoke detectors But to do that for very long, you need to be able to charge the batteries. Start with that cord! IS it the cord the seller used for the demo? OR is it your old cord that was perhaps cross wired under one of those tape patches. That is where I would start. Klein Tools Receptacle Tester-RT100 - The Home Depot one of these from any hardware, radio shack etc. Check the polarity of the power at the end of the cord. Not likely two outlets in your house, both wrong so must be that cord.
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Old 09-11-2015, 12:08 PM   #29
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Thanks for the updated info. It is going to be REALLY difficult for us to diagnose your problem because so much of what you say simply doesn't make sense.

I agree that your extension cord (with its frayed/repaired spots) could be the culprit as to why the GFCI would be tripping but that cord's condition wouldn't cause the breakers in your R/V's box to trip. If the cord was shorted out, it would cause the house breaker to trip that feeds the outlet you are plugging the cord into.

Have you plugged something else into the outlet you are trying to plug the R/V into?
A light or a fan, or anything to be absolutely sure the outlet's circuit is OK?

You mentioned once you plugged into the non-GFCI you could flip a few breakers on in the R/V but others would trip as soon as you tried. What were those breakers labeled? If a breaker in your R/V trips it is because it is protecting a circuit inside your R/V NOT anything that is feeding it. Are you sure you didn't plug something, anything into a receptacle in the camper you are not thinking about that could be bad and causing the problem?

I simply can't believe the entire wiring went bad in the R/V all at one time. Each breaker protects various things. Turn one on (leave all the others off) and check if the things on that circuit work. If they do, turn another on and check. If you can't get any of them to stay on without tripping, you'll likely need to call an electrician to start checking internal wiring in the R/V.
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Old 09-11-2015, 01:50 PM   #30
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I had a frayed and patched extension cord that would work for power tools, but would kick the breaker every time I try to plug in the engine heater on my truck.

My guess is the patchwork and the length of the cord is your problem. Are you using a regular extension cord, or RV extension cord? If you are using a regular extension cord, I would suggest getting a couple of RV 10 gauge cords.


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