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Old 09-18-2017, 03:16 PM   #1
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Problem with thermostat or furnace ?

I purchased a used 2013 Rockwood 1940 LTD Popup Camper a few weeks ago. Took it up to Bar Harbor for its maiden voyage two weeks ago. The stock Suburban mechanical thermostat seems pretty crappy on controlling the heat. It would get either way too hot or it got cold. The thermostat was also reading about 10° hotter than the actual temperature so the heat wouldn't come on unless it was cold enough. I just replaced it with a heat-only Honeywell Pro 1000 non-programmable digital thermostat. Can't get the heat to come on. I thought maybe I accidentally reversed the wires so I switched them. Still no go. Propane is turned on and the camper is plugged into the house electrical. Tried putting the old thermostat back on but it still won't turn on but it's reading 90° in the camper even though the actual temp is only 73 per the new thermostat and a thermometer so I'm not surprised the old thermostat isn't working. Is there any other on/off switch for the furnace other than on the thermostat? I lit the stove to make sure the propane is on and it is. Are the controls in the outside panel for the fridge only ? I thought that was the case. I have installed a few programmable thermostats in my home and a friend's home. It's not rocket science. I think I am just missing something. Thanks. Pam.
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Old 09-18-2017, 03:39 PM   #2
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Have you checked for 12v at the furnace?
Gotta start with the basics.
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Old 09-18-2017, 05:02 PM   #3
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I haven't done that yet. Don't have the right tool but I do have a couple electrician friends I can ask to check it for me.
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Old 09-18-2017, 05:02 PM   #4
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I just hooked up the new digital thermostat in my house (propane heat, also just two wires) and it works fine. The exact model is Honeywell TH1100DV1000. I read on one forum that it would work with the Suburban furnace in my popup. Can anyone confirm if this model will work. Thanks. Pam
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Old 09-18-2017, 05:10 PM   #5
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Here's what I bought. Honeywell TH1100DV1000 Pro-Digital 2-Wire Heat Only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6ARNXO..._GTVOWLfUX6gdc
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:53 PM   #6
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Check this Mod out and adapt to Honeywell. Hunter is no longer available. RV Digital Thermostat Upgrade | ModMyRV
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Old 09-19-2017, 04:54 PM   #7
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When I had a pop-up you had to lite a pilot first. You couldn't turn on furnace until fan was running.
Maybe yours is the same. It has been so long I don't remember all the steps.
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Old 09-19-2017, 05:05 PM   #8
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Hi There are 3 terminals on the back plate of the thermostat r, c & w. The 2 wires from the thermostat are 12 volts DC from the furnace. This will not power the thermostat. You need to use the 2 AAA battery option to power the thermostat. Put the Red Wire on the R terminal and the white wire on the W terminal. On a call for heat the thermostat should close a contact to complete the cricket back to the furnace to start it. If it dose not start put a jumper wire from r to w it should start. if it dose not start check to see if you have 12 V DC at r and W. If it dose start with the jumper you have wrong thermostat for this application or defective. If you don't have 12 V DC check the battery, battery disconnect or fuse. The furnace is a big power hog and will kill a battery in just a few hour. If you run the furnace all night you will need to be plugged in to 110 volt plug to charge the battery. below is a link to the thermostat manual.

Hope This Helps Tim



https://jacksonsystems.com/products/...hermostat.html
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Old 09-19-2017, 05:15 PM   #9
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Furnace?

I have a 2018 Flagstaff T21TBHW. I have propane on, lots of battery, and the thermostat temp reads within 1 degree of my other thermometers. I have initialized the thermostat and set it for 1 degree variance. I set the temp for 62 degrees, but the furnace does not come on until about 57 degrees. The dealer has changed the thermostat, didn't help, and then he said he found a wire too close to the circuit board that might be getting heat from that. I thought circuit boards stayed relatively cool. Anyway he bent it out and away from the board and hoped that would help. It didn't. Any suggestions?
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Old 09-20-2017, 06:36 PM   #10
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Hey PammyM!
THe thermostat is just a temperature activated on-off switch.
The easiest way to check it out is to take the two wires off the stat and put them together. If the furnace works... it's the stat. If it doesn't work... it's somewhere in the wiring or the furnace itself.
Keep us in the loop!
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:39 PM   #11
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Hi Babalu. I touched the two wires together and didn't get anything, not even w spark. Fan didn't come on. I replaced the fuse just in case. Nothing. I am going to take it in for service on Monday. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something small before I took it in. Thanks all for the help ! I'll let you know when I find out what was wrong with it. Pam
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:41 PM   #12
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The user manual for the furnace says there's no pilot to light. I thought that we first too. ��


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When I had a pop-up you had to lite a pilot first. You couldn't turn on furnace until fan was running.
Maybe yours is the same. It has been so long I don't remember all the steps.
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:46 PM   #13
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Hi Tim. Thanks for the suggestions. I do have batteries in the thermostat and tried the old mechanical thermostat and neither one works. I took the Honeywell thermostat in the house and hooked it up (propane) and it worked fine. Had the camper plugged into the house power during all of the testing. The ceiling lights both worked. I turned on the gas stove to make sure there was gas in the lines. It's beyond my technical abilities now so will see what the experts find. 😊

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Hi There are 3 terminals on the back plate of the thermostat r, c & w. The 2 wires from the thermostat are 12 volts DC from the furnace. This will not power the thermostat. You need to use the 2 AAA battery option to power the thermostat. Put the Red Wire on the R terminal and the white wire on the W terminal. On a call for heat the thermostat should close a contact to complete the cricket back to the furnace to start it. If it dose not start put a jumper wire from r to w it should start. if it dose not start check to see if you have 12 V DC at r and W. If it dose start with the jumper you have wrong thermostat for this application or defective. If you don't have 12 V DC check the battery, battery disconnect or fuse. The furnace is a big power hog and will kill a battery in just a few hour. If you run the furnace all night you will need to be plugged in to 110 volt plug to charge the battery. below is a link to the thermostat manual.

Hope This Helps Tim



https://jacksonsystems.com/products/...hermostat.html
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:13 PM   #14
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I would bet that you touched the hotwire to something and blew a fuse somewhere.
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:48 PM   #15
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That's possible but I did replace the fuse for the furnace just in case.

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I would bet that you touched the hotwire to something and blew a fuse somewhere.
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:29 PM   #16
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air flow switch stuck in the run position. Or the furnace control board fried or blown fuse on control board. The furnace thermostat wire may also be a broken .
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:43 PM   #17
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When you figure out the real problem, you may want to block the hole behind the thermostat where the wires come thru. Depending on where the stat is located, you may get hot or cold air coming in that will affect how the stat works... Mine is mounted next to the fridge. Trailer got way too cold with the AC running, then I realized I must be getting some heat from the back side of the fridge coming up. Plugged the hole with some cotton batting and all is good.

Good luck finding the root cause!
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Old 09-29-2017, 07:03 AM   #18
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The RV repair shop fixed the furnace. They said it was a bad safety switch. Will be nice to have a working furnace since it’s going to be in the 30’s at night where we are camping this weekend ! Thanks for everyone for your suggestions
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Old 09-29-2017, 10:21 AM   #19
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Thanks for coming back and letting us know that you got it fixed and what the problem was.

Glad you're going to get to enjoy some warmth during the camping trip.
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Old 09-29-2017, 12:20 PM   #20
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I know how helpful it is when others post the final resolution so I always try to do the same and pay it forward. ��. Repair bill was $274 which included labor and also included $130 for a new battery that they said was bad (fuse outside by the battery was melted). Seemed like a reasonable price to me and hopefully that is all that is wrong with this 2013 Rockwood 1940 LTD PUP we bought. I did spend $35 on a plumbing kit too to fix a link but everything else seems in great condition. Went through a couple long big downpours and no leaks in the roof or tent ends which I am happy about !
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