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Old 04-03-2010, 12:02 PM   #11
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On some the trailer grounds to the tow vehicle through the hitch. If they are not connected the trailer lites will not work.
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Old 04-04-2010, 01:45 AM   #12
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Bob7794 is correct. That series may need a 40 amp megafuse installed under the hood. the drivers side power center has a position for the towing power. They DONT come from the factory with the fuse but they put a red plastic plug where the fuse goes. Mine (05 silverado) was factory set up for towing and did not have the fuse. Government bailout. Anyway, my missing 40 amp fuse went into th "stud #1" position at the top and left position as you stand in front of the fuse block. It should be on the label under the lid. The manual says it's the fuse for auxilliary power.
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:30 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by turbopuppy View Post
Bob7794 is correct. That series may need a 40 amp megafuse installed under the hood. the drivers side power center has a position for the towing power. They DONT come from the factory with the fuse but they put a red plastic plug where the fuse goes. Mine (05 silverado) was factory set up for towing and did not have the fuse. Government bailout. Anyway, my missing 40 amp fuse went into th "stud #1" position at the top and left position as you stand in front of the fuse block. It should be on the label under the lid. The manual says it's the fuse for auxilliary power.
I installed a 40 amp fuse in my 2008 a year ago but with out looking at the diagram I forgot which one it is. The 40 amp fuse is green. I ended up not needing it, however from my understanding if it was hooked up then I would be able to operate the fridge on electric while towing.
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:04 AM   #14
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Under that gray handle in the forground are two studs. The one on the right should have a red wire with a black stripe connected to it. That is the 12 volt DC run to the trailer battery charging pin. The green megafuse next to the yellow one is the fuse for that stud. The yellow fuse is for the left stud. If there is no wire connected to the right stud (was not in my 2008 GMC Sierra) it is located UNDER that fuse block. Unwrap it and connect the round terminal connector to that right stud. You may need to buy a 10mm nut to hold it on the stud (mine was missing).
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:05 AM   #15
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I have two red wires with a black strip, you can see the one to the right setting next to the fuse block, the other one is to the left of the fuse block and out of sight. The 10mm nut was not on mine as well. I reported earlier that i had to take my truck in because of the "Check Engine Light" came on well the problem was right there on the fuse block where the 10mm nut is, this where I installed my back-up camera and it sent 14 problem to the computer system, the 10mm nuts came loose.
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:08 PM   #16
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Much of the above info is incorrect. As of 1999, all chevy trucks, excluding the C/K (SUVs followed in 2000) have each circuit on the plug individually fused. Left/right turn, left/right brake light (turn signal), brakes, and reverse are all fused in the box under the hood on the driver's side toward the front of the engine compartment. Chevy is good enough to print the code on the underside of the lid, unlike that evil Ford. They use the mini fuses for brake lights/turn signals. The right & left turn signals/brake lights are fused individually, as are the running lights. They are fused seperate from the truck's tail & brake lights. The key MUST be on to operate the turn signals, but not the hot wire (at least on '07 & older). The hot circuit is a maxi or "cube" 30 or 40 amp. I've seen many of these fuses blow when the plug is inserted upside down.
Good luck!
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:09 PM   #17
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On some the trailer grounds to the tow vehicle through the hitch. If they are not connected the trailer lites will not work.
Terrible way to do things. What if there is grease on the ball or corrosion on the inside of the coupler?
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:28 PM   #18
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The only trailers I have seen where the only ground was through the hitch was on older trailers, circa '70's, back with the old 4 way flat plug, this was usually because it was just as easy to wire your own trailer plugs, and people just didn't bother to ground them. Since the 6 way plugs became the standard, most grounds were wired via the plugs, now with the new larger 7 way connectors, it is quite uncommon to see them hooked without a ground wire.

However, the grease on the ball actually enhanced the grounding, and any corrosion would be nullified with any movement of the hitch on the ball. It actually worked pretty good, but a camper in the back of a p/u bed needed a ground wire as the construction was mostly wood where it contacted the p/u bed.
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Old 04-05-2010, 09:38 PM   #19
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Does Cheby use relays like Ferd? I had to install a fuse and some relays in the 2000 F-250 to get the plug to work.
Not on the 7 way plug stuff. Just fuses.
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:31 AM   #20
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I have an "Upfitter" PDF from Chevy that explains all of this. Anyone who wants a copy drop their email and I will include it as an attachment. As of 2008 they were still not connecting the 12 VDC hitch wire at the factory.
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