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Old 05-04-2016, 07:46 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Do you hear any clicking (attempting to light) when on gas?
Didn't pay attention, just noticed that while driving it started to get hot
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:50 AM   #12
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Since it is spring, did you bleed the gas line by lighting the stove first? Often there is air in the line and it takes a while before the reefer gets any propane. Lighting the stove clears most of the air out. The check light is saying that it tried to light but didn't after a couple of tries.
I will try that never thought about it.
Thank you
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Old 05-04-2016, 08:39 AM   #13
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How can I tell if the fridge is running on electric or gas? The only indicator that lights is the auto light. It would be nice if the auto light would also indicate which source it is using? When I am plugged in to power I am assuming it is running on electric, but is there a way I can be sure?
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:34 AM   #14
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Does anyone have an idea of what to check?
My fridge only works if on electric mode. If I put on gas only the check light will come on.
Of course the gas is open.
Are your batteries fully charged? All fridges use 12 volts DC for their control circuit. Even though you have switched to propane you need the 12 VDC. I believe even when on 110VAC you need the 12 VDC for control.

I may be wrong but doesn't the fridge still use propane even when on 110 VAC?

Fridges can be confusing. Doesn't the fridge run on propane no matter which power source you are using? You need the igniter to light the burner which is gas, correct? If you lose your 110VAC you are now running on your batteries. This supplies your 12 VDC to light your igniter and this supplies power to your control circuit. In either case you need gas to light the burner.

When on 110VAC you are suppling the 12 VDC through the converter, not directly from your batteries. No matter what you need propane and 12 VDC for the fridge to operate.

Sense the OP fridge is only operating when hooked to shore power I would guess his batteries are low, not supplying enough power for his igniter to light his burner. When on shore power his converter is supplying enough 12 VDC for the igniter to work. When he switches to gas the fridge is trying to operate from the batteries and if the batteries are low it will not operate. Did I miss something? Maybe Dometic should change that light to read battery/shore power? Because in either case the fridge needs propane. Then again I could be wrong about the way the fridge operates.

Jim
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:46 AM   #15
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I have a Norcold (?) refrigerator and only has an auto setting. When hooked to electric the light on the refrigerator is green. When it is disconnected from electric and running on propane the light turns yellow (or amber). If the light is red it means it is not using either and something is wrong. If there is no light the refrigerator is turned off.

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Old 05-04-2016, 10:51 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
Are your batteries fully charged? All fridges use 12 volts DC for their control circuit. Even though you have switched to propane you need the 12 VDC. I believe even when on 110VAC you need the 12 VDC for control.

I may be wrong but doesn't the fridge still use propane even when on 110 VAC?

Fridges can be confusing. Doesn't the fridge run on propane no matter which power source you are using? You need the igniter to light the burner which is gas, correct? If you lose your 110VAC you are now running on your batteries. This supplies your 12 VDC to light your igniter and this supplies power to your control circuit. In either case you need gas to light the burner.

When on 110VAC you are suppling the 12 VDC through the converter, not directly from your batteries. No matter what you need propane and 12 VDC for the fridge to operate.


Sense the OP fridge is only operating when hooked to shore power I would guess his batteries are low, not supplying enough power for his igniter to light his burner. When on shore power his converter is supplying enough 12 VDC for the igniter to work. When he switches to gas the fridge is trying to operate from the batteries and if the batteries are low it will not operate. Did I miss something? Maybe Dometic should change that light to read battery/shore power? Because in either case the fridge needs propane. Then again I could be wrong about the way the fridge operates.

Jim
Depends on the refrigerator.
Some refrigerators will work solely on 110v
They have a 110v heating element that heats the ammonia rather than using propane to heat it.

Most refrigerators that run off propane DO need 12v for the control board.
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Old 05-04-2016, 11:57 AM   #17
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Norcold has the right idea. The colored lights is a great way of diagnosing the power.
Thanks
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:04 PM   #18
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Depends on the refrigerator.
Some refrigerators will work solely on 110v
They have a 110v heating element that heats the ammonia rather than using propane to heat it.

Most refrigerators that run off propane DO need 12v for the control board.
True generally referred to as a three way fridge. I wasn't aware that Dometic made any. I was reading too much into the problem. Then again, the OP didn't state any manufacture did he?

I still lead towards a low battery voltage being the problem.

Jim
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:08 PM   #19
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I have a Norcold (?) refrigerator and only has an auto setting. When hooked to electric the light on the refrigerator is green. When it is disconnected from electric and running on propane the light turns yellow (or amber). If the light is red it means it is not using either and something is wrong. If there is no light the refrigerator is turned off.

Just my $.02
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I wish they were all that way. Mine only has a amber light.



I watch the freezer temp the old fashioned way. Place a penny on top of an ice cube.

Jim
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:10 PM   #20
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You are right about it being confusing. Your info about the propane being used either way is interesting. It would at least explain why I hear the back of the fridge cycling occasional with what sounds like gas? But I also noticed that the amp meter within my surge protector is only showing 1 amp usage when only the refrigerator is on? Would that reinforce my concern? In talking to dometic, they said the refrigerator should be drawing about 3-4 amps. My batteries are fully charged. I tried to check the fuses located under the panel in back of the fridge but the cover is very difficult to release. I am afraid I will break something if I force the cover off.
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