Reinforcement of a saggy floor? Can I bolt 2x4s to the frame?

[lugoismad]

I have a Surveyor 235rs. In the back area, the floor will sink about an inch when you step on it. I got under it and watched as my wife walked around, and I could see it happening underneath the camper.

I'm planning on running 2x4s across the frame rails to reinforce this area. Am I ok to drill some 3/8" inch holes in the frame to bolt the 2x4s to?

Anything else I should be careful of?

[Bama Rambler]

I would say that you'd be ok to do that, but it'd be better if you could post a couple of pics of the place you need to drill the holes. Try to give some perspective as to where on the frame in relation to the back, wheels etc. the holes need to be

[lugoismad]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

I would say that you'd be ok to do that, but it'd be better if you could post a couple of pics of the place you need to drill the holes. Try to give some perspective as to where on the frame in relation to the back, wheels etc. the holes need to be

I want to run 2x4 between the frame rails.



There is on support beam already there, you can see it in the pic. I can feel exactly where it's at when I step on the floor.

I want to run the 2x4 lengthwise then run some between them widthwise, basically making a 18" square grid under the area.

What I'm asking is, is it ok to drill into and bolt to the frame rails on the camper?

[Bama Rambler]

Given the location I'd say that it'd be fine to drill a couple of holes in the frame to attach some supports to it.

[Scubanut]

Originally Posted by lugoismad

I want to run 2x4 between the frame rails.







There is on support beam already there, you can see it in the pic. I can feel exactly where it's at when I step on the floor.



I want to run the 2x4 lengthwise then run some between them widthwise, basically making a 18" square grid under the area.



What I'm asking is, is it ok to drill into and bolt to the frame rails on the camper?

Maybe it would be easier and stronger to get a welding shop to tac a few more steel cross braces.

Like Bama said I'm sure it would be fine to do what you want to do.

2012 F150 FX4 Crew 5.0 3.73 gears
2O12 Coachman Freedom Express 292BHDS (outdoor Kitchen)

[lugoismad]

Originally Posted by Scubanut

Maybe it would be easier and stronger to get a welding shop to tac a few more steel cross braces.

Like Bama said I'm sure it would be fine to do what you want to do.

2012 F150 FX4 Crew 5.0 3.73 gears
2O12 Coachman Freedom Express 292BHDS (outdoor Kitchen)

Wood is cheaper. Plus there is cloth fabric on the bottom of the plywood, some sort of water barrier. Not good to weld near.

[Scubanut]

Originally Posted by lugoismad

Wood is cheaper. Plus there is cloth fabric on the bottom of the plywood, some sort of water barrier. Not good to weld near.

Yes it is cheaper, But I was thinking you might need to drill quite a few holes in the frame to checker board it the way you were mentioning. The water barrier cloth would be an issue.


2012 F150 FX4 Crew 5.0 3.73 gears
2O12 Coachman Freedom Express 292BHDS (outdoor Kitchen)

[lugoismad]

Originally Posted by Scubanut

Yes it is cheaper, But I was thinking you might need to drill quite a few holes in the frame to checker board it the way you were mentioning. The water barrier cloth would be an issue.


2012 F150 FX4 Crew 5.0 3.73 gears
2O12 Coachman Freedom Express 292BHDS (outdoor Kitchen)

5 x 2 on each side. I said 3/8 but I think 1/4 would do fine. Jack the board up tight with a floor jack and then screw it in on both sides.

It's behind the axle, so it's just keeping the bumper from dragging the ground, lol.

[RVPP]

I have a '05 23ft Surveyor. Had a very soft floor in the head also. My fix was to remove the toilet, flooring and any trim. I cut a piece of 3/4 plywood to fit and supported it with 1 inch alum. angle screwed to the cabinet, the tub and the wall. (wish I'd taken pictures) Then some vinyl flooring and a threshold under the door. Job looks good and the floor supports my 250lbs. no problem.

[CaptnJohn]

Lumber yard or hardware will have joist hangers for deck work. They are galvanized. I have used them for 2x6 work. Maybe available for 2x4. Would be an easy way. If room I'd use treated 2x6 anyway.

[DouglasReid]

rather than drilling 3/8" holes I would consider getting some Joist Hangers from your local lumber yard or Lows, Home Depot, etc. You can afix them to the frame with only self tapping screws. They are designed to carry the weight and you do not risk weakening your frame by drilling holes.

If you MUST drill holes, Id use 1/4" instead and be sure to drill in the center of the frame member so as not to weaken it in either tension of compression when it flexes under a load.

Good Luck

[Flybob]

A good welding shop can use carbon fiber protective cloth to protect the water barrier and tack weld 1.5- 2 inch "L" stock across there with no problem. A 2X4 can possibly warp and cause new problems.