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Old 09-07-2011, 09:53 AM   #1
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Running A/C & microwave


I have a 2011 Roo 23SS. While camping over the weekend the wife went to use the microwave while the air was running and it popped a breaker inside the camper. We were plugged into 30 amp service from the CG, and it was a State Park so I assume (I know that's bad) that they have good power. I am just wondering if this is a normal thing or something I should have checked out.
I am not that " electrically inclined" so I just assumed that I we had 30 amp service then I should be fine running everything in the camper. If it helps to know, yes the fridge and hot water were running on electric also.
While on this subject, does anyone know if it's possible to turn off the WFCO converter? I am just wondering about this for times when I use a generator. I have a 3000 watt inverter generator, it is sufficient to run the A/C but I have had it overload before even with all the breakers off except the one for A/C. I am thinking maybe the WFCO is trying to charge the battery causing an overload?
Thanks for any help!

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Old 09-07-2011, 10:06 AM   #2
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i believe the hw heater may be too much. in my last trailer, i could run frig, microwave, and air on the 30 amp. did not have the electric hw heater.

should u run on gen, i would put the hw heater and possibly the frig on gas. i would think the gas would be cheaper operation than the gasoline.
i have found the frig and hw heater aren't big users.

when i hooped up to 20 amp service, it was an either or with the air and microwave. frig was on electric and hw heater on gas.

in a word, i don't think u have any problems, just a little too much demand.

oh, and my converter was never shut down.

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Old 09-07-2011, 10:31 AM   #3
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We have the 2012 318BHS and got it set up for its maiden season at the deer lease this weekend. We tripped the outside breaker at the pole by running electric hw heater, a/c, and micro along with lights and stereo. Oh yeah, the pump was working too since I was running some bath water. We are lucky we didn't blow a fuse inside! We just weren't thinking....
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:41 AM   #4
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As far as the gennie goes A 3000 watt gennie will not run much.
Considering all your plug ins are most likley 20 amp.
Even so your a/c will drawn about 16 or so amps at start up and 13 or so running.
That only leaves you about 5 to 6 amp to Max it out.

As far as chi power start adding all you had on and you may have been close to 30 amps.
I would not recommend turnning off converter. I have an amp chart ill post later.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:45 AM   #5
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If you turn everything on at once you can easily overload a 30 amp trailer.
Especially if the hot water heater and refrigerator happened to be cycling at the
same time as the AC and microwave. I would expect something to give!

My trailer has a circuit breaker for the converter. Doesn't yours?
I once had my trailer hooked to a generator and noticed the genny was working extra
hard. I was just trying to charge batteries. I realized later that my refrigerator was
in "auto" mode and as soon as I fired up the genny the fridge had switched from
gas to electric.

If you're close to max on your generator to run your roof AC on be sure and shut off
the 120v hot water heater AND switch the fridge to LP mode.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:50 AM   #6
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I run the Fridge, AC, Microwave, couple of lights and TV all at the same time plugged into 30 Amp shore line. Being that it is stil it to the dealer for a check up.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:52 AM   #7
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Blender5-6 AmpsCoffee Maker5-8 Amps Compact Disc Player1 Amp Computer (Laptop)2-3amps Converter1-8 Amps Crock Pot1-2 Amps Curling Iron<1 Amp Drill2-6 Amps Electric Blanket0.5-1.5 Amps Electric Fan1 Amp Electric Water Heater9-13 Amps Electric Skillet6-12 Amps Hair Dryer5-12 Amps Iron5-10 Amps Light (60 watt % 120V)<1 Amp Microwave8-13 Amps Microwave (Convection Oven)13 Amps Refrigerator in AC mode5-8 Amps Space Heater8-13 Amps Television1.5-4 Amps Toaster7-10 AmpsVacuum (handheld)2-6 Amps VCR1-2 Amps Washer/Dryer14-16Amps 12 Volt DC Amp RatingsAppliance or AccessoryEstimated AmpsAisle Light1 Amp CO Detector1 Amp Fluorescent Light1-2 Amps Furnace10-12 Amps LP Gas Leak Detector1 Amp Overhead lights (Per Bulb)1 Amp Porch Light1 Amp Power Roof Vent1.5 Amps Radio/Stereo4 Amps Range Hood (Fan & Light)2-3 Amps Refrigerator (LP Gas Mode)1.5- 2 Amps Security System1 Amp Television (12 volt)4-5 Amps TV Antenna Booster<1 Amp TV Antenna Booster 12 Volt outlet Up to 8 Amps Variable Speed Ceiling / Vent Fan4 Amps VCR Recorder / Player2 Amps Water Pump4 Amp

One other thing to keep in mind is many RV appliances require more amps to start the appliance than they do to run the appliance. A roof air conditioner can draw 16 amps to start, but may only use 13 amps once it is running.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:58 AM   #8
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in my quick calulations
ac = 12
convertor = lets say 4 half of full
hw heater = lets say 11
micro = 13
if they were all running at once .... 40 amps
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:06 AM   #9
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When I have problems just like this. If I run the water heater on LP it seems to be okay. With all the gadgets in the newer campers, we are pushing the limit at 30 amp. It doesn't take much to pop a breaker! Just as a note: I use the extra 15 amp 110 outlet at most CG to run my awning lights and any other outdoor item such as a electric griddle etc. Just run a extension cord under the trailer and make it available using a 8 plug strip with a circuit breaker built in.
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:27 PM   #10
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Thanks everyone. Since I don't have that much electrical experience it just made sense in my head that the manufacturers would take loads into consideration when building these campers! It seems to me that it makes more sense to build them all at 50 amp rather than 30 but I'm sure the cheap factor is what determines how they actually build rather than usefulness.

Thanks for all the good info.

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