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Old 09-10-2014, 08:15 PM   #21
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To Run both is fast hot water.
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Old 09-11-2014, 04:13 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Lefty59 View Post
I've been wondering all summer why I here it fire on propane (usually early in the morning) even though no demand for hot water has been made and the electric and gas are both on.

If the electric element isn't working, then I suspect it hasn't worked from the day we took delivery as I was well aware of the problem with turning it on without first filling the tank thanks to a neighbor's prior experience.

One other question, is the propane/DSI switch supposed to be lit when turned on? Mine isn't, although I believe it was on our maiden voyage. Dealer says the switch is normally unlit unless the reset light is illuminated.

Thanks again.
You're most likely hearing the propane burner kick on in the morning because the water has naturally cooled inside the heater to the point the thermostat calls for the need to heat the water to it's pre-set temperature (and the electric element isn't working). That's just normal operation, just like the water heater in your house.

As far as the electric element NEVER working from day one of your ownership; that is a very definite possibility. You don't know what anybody at the dealers lot may have done previously before you took ahold of it. They may have inadvertantly burned out the element by turning on the switch during their pre-pdi, another customer could have, etc etc. We have also had several reports here in these forums of the heater not even being plugged into an electrical outlet from the factory. You might want to check behind the water heater to see if this is true, and that the outlet has power going to it. ( pic below used for reference only)



And just to be sure, usually on the black switch that controls the electric heating element, you push "IN" on the word you want to control the operation. If you want the element to be on, then make sure you push in on the word "ON".

This switch in the pic below would be in the "OFF" position.



and this switch below would be in the "ON" position:




Hope this helps
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Old 09-11-2014, 06:05 AM   #23
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Definite possibility the electric side has never been plugged in or the hi limit has tripped. Once you determine you have the electric side working, you will not hear any noise from the electric element. We run both elec and gas and will experience the same phenomenon in the morning, hearing the gas side kick on even tho' hot water hasn't been used. We like running both as it does give a much faster recovery.
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:10 AM   #24
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Last time I messed with our WH the T-stat for electric was set at about 130 (non-adjustable) and the propane T-stat at about 90. So, the propane won't come on until the electric can't keep up.
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:45 AM   #25
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Last time I messed with our WH the T-stat for electric was set at about 130 (non-adjustable) and the propane T-stat at about 90. So, the propane won't come on until the electric can't keep up.
Find it strange the elec at 130 and propane @ 90. Usually both are set at the same, at least mine are and both come on at practically the same time. You have to check voltage on the electric side to know when it comes on. Would really like to put a small indicator light on the electric side to show when it is heating, but not smart enough to know how.
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:03 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
You're most likely hearing the propane burner kick on in the morning because the water has naturally cooled inside the heater to the point the thermostat calls for the need to heat the water to it's pre-set temperature (and the electric element isn't working). That's just normal operation, just like the water heater in your house.

As far as the electric element NEVER working from day one of your ownership; that is a very definite possibility. You don't know what anybody at the dealers lot may have done previously before you took ahold of it. They may have inadvertantly burned out the element by turning on the switch during their pre-pdi, another customer could have, etc etc. We have also had several reports here in these forums of the heater not even being plugged into an electrical outlet from the factory. You might want to check behind the water heater to see if this is true, and that the outlet has power going to it. ( pic below used for reference only)



And just to be sure, usually on the black switch that controls the electric heating element, you push "IN" on the word you want to control the operation. If you want the element to be on, then make sure you push in on the word "ON".

This switch in the pic below would be in the "OFF" position.



and this switch below would be in the "ON" position:




Hope this helps
You were spot on with it not being plugged in. I removed the back panel for the water heater and found the cord laying on the floor. I plugged it in and now have hot water running on electric only.

Thanks!!
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:59 AM   #27
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You were spot on with it not being plugged in. I removed the back panel for the water heater and found the cord laying on the floor. I plugged it in and now have hot water running on electric only.

Thanks!!
Glad to hear it was an easy fix and you got it all working. Thanks for posting the solution, as this may help members in the future with similar problems, who are searching the forums for an answer.
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:22 AM   #28
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We run ot on gas in warm weather because we have to pay for our electricity and there is not much other use of gas that time of year. When it gets cold enough for the furnace I change over to electric to conserve propane. At my age I don't like handling those 30# tanks. I take "Navy" showers the DW doesn't. We never run out of hot water.
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:26 AM   #29
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We run both year around, neither the water heater or the refrigerator uses very much. We filled one 30# cylinder last year after using it 2 winters in FL and never shutting either off.
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:38 AM   #30
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We run both year around, neither the water heater or the refrigerator uses very much. We filled one 30# cylinder last year after using it 2 winters in FL and never shutting either off.
If found the same to be true. The furnace is the big consumer of propane.
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:47 AM   #31
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If found the same to be true. The furnace is the big consumer of propane.
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:08 AM   #32
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If found the same to be true. The furnace is the big consumer of propane.
Very, very rarely have we run the furnace, we use an EdenPure heater and I wired the furnace blower to run without the burner to circulate the air/heat when it gets down in the 30's & 40's in FL. Keeps the basement warm also just by opening a slide vent I put in the basement. I also sealed off the area between the alum rafters and attached the round duct to it to get the duct work out of the way in the basement. Did the same on the driverside for the bathroom. Added benefit is it also keeps the floor warmer.
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:40 AM   #33
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Unfortunately we have to use our furnace in the mornings here in Michigan this time of year hand in the early spring . The rest of the year we can get by with the fireplace to take could chill off in the mornings. I sometimes wonder which would be more cost effective, the fireplace or the furnace.
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Old 09-18-2014, 09:08 AM   #34
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Unfortunately we have to use our furnace in the mornings here in Michigan this time of year hand in the early spring . The rest of the year we can get by with the fireplace to take could chill off in the mornings. I sometimes wonder which would be more cost effective, the fireplace or the furnace.
I believe you said you pay for your electric, so that makes it a tough call. For most of us non-seasonal, if we had the electric option like a fireplace then that's the best bet as almost all non-seasonal don't pay for electric.
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