Scissor style jacks and leveling blocks

[Rich84]

We have a grey wolf 26dbh, sat too low to the ground so we had the dealer do the "spring over axle" lift. After doing so, we noticed it is now almost impossible to get the thing solid when camping. I've doubled up on leveling blocks, added weight and subtracted weight from the stabilizers but can't get the dang thing somewhat solid... any tips? I was using 4x6 blocks about 10" long but just went to home Depot and bought a 4x6x10' and a 2x12x10', cut down to 14", put blocks side by side and screwed a 14" piece of 2x12 to top and bottom. So now have a 8x12x14 block to level out on. Will this help?

[Tapex]

Originally Posted by Rich84

We have a grey wolf 26dbh, sat too low to the ground so we had the dealer do the "spring over axle" lift. After doing so, we noticed it is now almost impossible to get the thing solid when camping. I've doubled up on leveling blocks, added weight and subtracted weight from the stabilizers but can't get the dang thing somewhat solid... any tips? I was using 4x6 blocks about 10" long but just went to home Depot and bought a 4x6x10' and a 2x12x10', cut down to 14", put blocks side by side and screwed a 14" piece of 2x12 to top and bottom. So now have a 8x12x14 block to level out on. Will this help?

Pictures would be nice of this setup.

[DaGrinch]

Sounds to me you need something like the Valteera stabilizers. One under the back bumper, one under the front in conjunction with your scissors jacks. Maybe even a step stabilizer.
I know when we had a TT, these two items did wonders in helping solidify the camper when our son would camp with us. He's a big guy (+/- 300#) and these two took out majority of the movement when he would walk around and crawl in and out of bed.

[Rich84]

[Rich84]

The solo block on tip is what I used. The 4 with handles are what I made to hopefully sturdy things up

[pdqparalegal1]

Blocks are besutiful but look heavy. I use 12x12 pads made of 2x6 material made into 3" high pads. Stack as needed to limit need to lower jacks too far. Also addes two more jacks, one in front of axles and one behind. Lastly the X-chockd. Helped a lot. Prior, 38# dog would wiggle trailer.

[Renegade837]

I'm thinking it's the nice new suspension that's giving you that bouncy feel. I've got a seasonal site and one of the first things I do when I set up in the spring is to set up four old-school pyramid jacks fore and aft of the suspension. Right on the frame, just ahead (or behind) the shackles. Then I do the stabilizers front and back. That, and I put a couple pyramid jacks under the middle stair. Ours is a big camper with heavy slides, and I'm not a small mammal. The "jello jiggles" make me go bonkers so that's what I do to try and negate any bounce from the suspension. As far as blocks, like I said, I'm seasonal so I use cinder blocks. But when I traveled I had great luck with the plastic ones. I've got the Campco stepped leveling blocks for the wheels and I love them. Oh, and before I forget; I use X-chocks between the wheels. I think that makes a huge difference too. They are designed so that if one wheel wants to rock forward, the arms more or less push the opposite wheel backwards. Negating the rocking back and front. Big difference for our camper! Good luck!

[spudston]

I am going to do the axle flip also on my Heartland. Have you considered the struts you can add to your stabilizers such as BAL lock arms? I removed the mangled rear power sabilizer (it functioned as the rear skid too many times) and will replace it with scissor jacks and the struts. I never thought those Lippert stabilizers worked well anyway.

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by DaGrinch

Sounds to me you need something like the Valteera stabilizers. One under the back bumper, one under the front in conjunction with your scissors jacks. Maybe even a step stabilizer.
I know when we had a TT, these two items did wonders in helping solidify the camper when our son would camp with us. He's a big guy (+/- 300#) and these two took out majority of the movement when he would walk around and crawl in and out of bed.

+1

We bought a pair of these - one goes under the frame in the back and one under the stairs. They take most of the wiggle out.

[Rich84]

So with the scissor jacks, how much weight should I put on them? I normally get it close to level, put the back two down so they touch, then jack up the nose with the tongue jack maybe an inch, let the front stabilizers down and take the weight off the tongue. I'm assuming the less sprung out they are, they sturdier they would be

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by Rich84

So with the scissor jacks, how much weight should I put on them? I normally get it close to level, put the back two down so they touch, then jack up the nose with the tongue jack maybe an inch, let the front stabilizers down and take the weight off the tongue. I'm assuming the less sprung out they are, they sturdier they would be

I would advise against that approach - corner scissor jacks are not meant to take the full weight of the trailer and I would be worried that too much extension of the tongue jack could stress the frame.

I suggest you level the trailer, then crank down the stabilizers onto whatever support blocks you're using. How tight you make them is a matter of personal preference; I extend and retract mine with a drill and I know by the sound when to stop.

[RFGTLG]

Fully agree with Restcure. Level first, then stabilize.

[Scrapper]

The more blocking you have under the stabilizers the better. The less you have to extend the stabilizers the more solid it will be. Level side to side with blocks under the tires then level front to back with the tongue jack. Using X-chocks or other simulated devices will take most of the shake out. Then lower your corner stabilizers.

[Rich84]

Originally Posted by Restcure

I would advise against that approach - corner scissor jacks are not meant to take the full weight of the trailer and I would be worried that too much extension of the tongue jack could stress the frame.

I suggest you level the trailer, then crank down the stabilizers onto whatever support blocks you're using. How tight you make them is a matter of personal preference; I extend and retract mine with a drill and I know by the sound when to stop.

Gotcha. That's just how I was always taught. I don't put the full weight on the jacks but maybe by me putting too much on them, the weight is causing the cheap jacks to sway. I'll give it a whirl this weekend and see how that works. Thanks guys. I also use a hammer drill to bring mine up and down.

[Rich84]

Yeah we do side to side first, then do x chocks on both sides. This trailer just has cheap stabilizers, way thinner than my 98 had. I may just replace them.