Side to side movement- stabilizers

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by ependydad

Ehh- I heard the same thing about JT StrongArms. I can't talk about your homemade stuff.

The homemade JT's are just square tubing and Heim joints, no slop in the joints. I raise the landing jacks about 1/4"-1/2", tighten the lock bolts and then lower. IMO, you have to have the X across the front and enough weight on the rear to stop the side to side motion designed into the jacks. The more vertical you get the rear legs, the more resistance to horizontal movement you get. Putting big blocks under them defeats that resistance. Have fun.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

The homemade JT's are just square tubing and Heim joints, no slop in the joints. I raise the landing jacks about 1/4"-1/2", tighten the lock bolts and then lower. IMO, you have to have the X across the front and enough weight on the rear to stop the side to side motion designed into the jacks.

I'll give that process a shot.

[Tfort]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

The homemade JT's are just square tubing and Heim joints, no slop in the joints. I raise the landing jacks about 1/4"-1/2", tighten the lock bolts and then lower. IMO, you have to have the X across the front and enough weight on the rear to stop the side to side motion designed into the jacks. The more vertical you get the rear legs, the more resistance to horizontal movement you get. Putting big blocks under them defeats that resistance. Have fun.

Oldcoot, if you don't mind me asking, what thickness tubing did you use on yours and did you make the brackets that connect the ends or did you find some pre made that works? I have been looking at the JT system and cannot see where it should cost that much when I could build it for probably less than half. Also you tighten it before lowering it all the way down? This doesn't stress the landing gear at all?


2000 F250 CC 4x4 7.3L diesel

15 Salem Hemisphere Lite356QB

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Tfort

Oldcoot, if you don't mind me asking, what thickness tubing did you use on yours and did you make the brackets that connect the ends or did you find some pre made that works? I have been looking at the JT system and cannot see where it should cost that much when I could build it for probably less than half. Also you tighten it before lowering it all the way down? This doesn't stress the landing gear at all?

I used 0.075" 1" sq. wall tubing for the inner and 0.090" wall 1.25"sq outer. I welded nuts in the ends for the 5/16" Heim joints. IMO, there is very little stress on the landing jacks or the stab jacks as the weight of the trailer is holding the pad firmly on the ground and the upper end is held firmly by the attaching hardware. I have used these same struts on 2 trailers since 08 and have had no problems.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

The homemade JT's are just square tubing and Heim joints, no slop in the joints. I raise the landing jacks about 1/4"-1/2", tighten the lock bolts and then lower. IMO, you have to have the X across the front and enough weight on the rear to stop the side to side motion designed into the jacks. The more vertical you get the rear legs, the more resistance to horizontal movement you get. Putting big blocks under them defeats that resistance. Have fun.

Originally Posted by ependydad

I'll give that process a shot.

Welp, all setup in Moab. I tightened the landing gear and then lowered the jacks somewhat. The rear, I raised like I normally do (seemingly that 1"). I haven't put the axle jacks in place yet.

We'll see how it does.

[Arenablanca]

I may need to reread this thread but I did not see where supports under the slide outs were mentioned. We have had rocking with all our trailers ( both 5th wheel and TT's). The best thing we have found is putting supports under the slide outs.

[bob caldwell]

'Till a tire goes down.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by Arenablanca

I may need to reread this thread but I did not see where supports under the slide outs were mentioned. We have had rocking with all our trailers ( both 5th wheel and TT's). The best thing we have found is putting supports under the slide outs.

My owners manual specifically calls them out and says to NOT use them.

[doc73]

I do not think any modern slide allows for their use to avoid damage when things settle.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Arenablanca

I may need to reread this thread but I did not see where supports under the slide outs were mentioned. We have had rocking with all our trailers ( both 5th wheel and TT's). The best thing we have found is putting supports under the slide outs.

Not recommended by any means!

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "27 nights"

[Tfort]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

I used 0.075" 1" sq. wall tubing for the inner and 0.090" wall 1.25"sq outer. I welded nuts in the ends for the 5/16" Heim joints. IMO, there is very little stress on the landing jacks or the stab jacks as the weight of the trailer is holding the pad firmly on the ground and the upper end is held firmly by the attaching hardware. I have used these same struts on 2 trailers since 08 and have had no problems.

Thank you for the info. I will be building a set as soon as mine gets out of the shop. Did you do anything for your rear stabilizers?


2000 F250 CC 4x4 7.3L diesel

15 Salem Hemisphere Lite356QB

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Tfort

Thank you for the info. I will be building a set as soon as mine gets out of the shop. Did you do anything for your rear stabilizers?

Reinforced the legs and replaced the strap leg supports with 3/4" black pipe with the ends flattened and added forward facing homemade JT Strongarms.

[leefl]

I recently got the Winfield RV crossbrace stabilizers for the front landing legs (very similar to OC's homemade cross stabilizers, except more expensive, but I didn't have the time to make any myself)

They've greatly reduced the side-to-side movement felt in the front, but I still have quite a bit of front-to-back movement (even with x-chocks) and bounce.

I'm thinking of adding some BAL lock-arms (can be bought in individual pairs) to front legs (front-to-back) and/or rear stabilizers, and maybe some stabilizers near wheels.

[Harkerr]

I think it also makes a difference when you are on gravel vs concrete. Hard to really get stable on gravel. I have had some luck with a front tripod but does not help side to side in rear. I do use 4 bottle jacks center and rear. Helps but have to give them a pump every day or so. No majic answer.

[dmeck]

Going to a higher load range on the tires has helped ours feel more stable when parked.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Reinforced the legs and replaced the strap leg supports with 3/4" black pipe with the ends flattened and added forward facing homemade JT Strongarms.

Okay but tell everyone what was your best answer to it? You cut down and installed an electrical stabilizer like the rear before his tires and reinforced them. Could probably pick up that unit now, I know the stabilizers will hold you rock solid, he did mine on the rear. Those puppy's are not going to bend... Even with the 4 point level-up I still put down the rear. LCI wanted to take it off they said I didn't need it anymore. I said NO and glad I didn't listen to them.....

[bob caldwell]

I like the 'sway'n motion! If this trailer's a'rocken.....

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Harkerr

I think it also makes a difference when you are on gravel vs concrete. Hard to really get stable on gravel. I have had some luck with a front tripod but does not help side to side in rear. I do use 4 bottle jacks center and rear. Helps but have to give them a pump every day or so. No majic answer.

With my jacks/stabilizers and Bal X Chocks, I don't see any difference whether on grass, sand, gravel, asphalt or concrete. On grass I do have to tweak them about every other day, but that's all.

[bob caldwell]

Ultra-light Flagstaff?