Tomorrow we take delivery of a Wildwood DLX 426-2B. One of the options on our unit is stabilizers.
My question: Our concrete pad is slightly sloped and the curb side is a bit lower than the driver's side. Are the stabilizers just for stabilizing against motion in the TT or can they reasonably be used to adjust the curb side level up about one inch.
We do not have a tow vehicle so when the dealer places it on the lot moving it will be difficult. If I have to put one of the yellow CW pads under each of the two curb side wheels I really have to do it when it is being positioned.
Advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
GR
ps. New to TT's but have had 5 MH's and still have a 2011 Class C.
The "group think" and manufacturer's guidance is to never use stabilizers to level anything. A 1 inch thick plank under the wheels where needed will solve your problem without THIS happening.
__________________
Lou and Laura Amadio and Bella the German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS 5th Wheel Pullrite Hitch
(2009: 28) (2010: 74) (2011: 93) (2012: 4)
Lou, I've been doing some searching and everything I see under levellers at RV supply houses label what we are getting not as stabilizers but as "scissor jacks." I guess I've got to wait until delivery tomorrow and check the labels (good FR manaul and info in the brown box is silent on them). If they are scissor jacks with 5,000 lb capacity at each corner (4 of them) then I would think that I shouldn't have any problems raising up one side an inch with them.
But then I ask why FR labels them as stabilizers?
Whoops, found some scissor stabilizers now. Think I'll have two of my yellow pads set to go under the curb side.
Mine look to be 30 inches high so that depending on brand their capacity may be 7500 lbs. Now I'm getting curious.
If you have a standard heavy duty frame, using the two corner jacks (if you HAVE jacks and not stabilizers) would most likely be ok.
HOWEVER, if you have an Ultra-Lite type frame you will most certainly twist it even if you have jacks instead of stabilizers.
You will tell it is twisted when you can't open or close doors and drawers.
I would still use leveling blocks to do side to side and the front jack (or landing gear on a 5th wheel) to do the fore and aft.
__________________
Lou and Laura Amadio and Bella the German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS 5th Wheel Pullrite Hitch
(2009: 28) (2010: 74) (2011: 93) (2012: 4)
Levelling blocks under the frame is a NO NO as insurance companies in Florida will generally not insure TT's that are tied down, blocked or skirted (set out in our Nationwide Policy). Our park requires tie downs and skirting so ours has to be moved from its lot to the storage area when we leave in April (we have the park model beside it). The option is to tie down and go with no insurance.
I assume it is a heavy duty frame as the frame rails sure looked hefty - and I'm used to looking at MH rails. As to thickness, I'll have to compare with our MH when the TT arrives tomorrow.
UVW is over 10,000 lbs. Length is just over 40 ft. I may just put the pads under the two tires on one side and forget my concerns.
__________________
Lou and Laura Amadio and Bella the German Short Hair Pointer
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2010 Flagstaff 8526RLWS 5th Wheel Pullrite Hitch
(2009: 28) (2010: 74) (2011: 93) (2012: 4)
OK, I call them pads because in our park and to the insurance companies blocks mean concrete blocks that are used when they tie down and skirt trailers and calling those tiny yellow things blocks is a bit misleading (but they are sold as blocks). BTW, I have 2 x 10 of the yellow levelling blocks/pads. Didn't make much use of them with our MH's other than to put them under the HWH or PG levellers if ground wasn't solid. Current MH has no jacks so we had to use three on one side - one on front and one under each rear tire (dually) on our lot in FLA.