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Old 06-07-2013, 05:46 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by thebrakeman View Post
Rrickim63,
Did you add wood joists? I'm planning on laying ľ" plywood on the membrane and putting 2x2 headers against both aluminum floor frames at both sides, screwed every foot or so into the aluminum. Then I will have 2x3 joists going side to side every 16", screwed into those headers, with liquid nails to the plywood underneath. I found some 3/4" foam designed for 16" on center studs. 2 layers of that should be perfect, although I"m not relying on the foam anymore for structure.
I'll then glue/screw ľ" plywood on top, to match the height of the hallway. Then I'll put another layer of ľ" plywood over the entire camper floor, turned 90-degrees. Then my wife can pick out the top flooring.
That's the plan, anyway!
I added joists almost like a mini deck under the floor attached to frame for support. I like your idea of 2 sheets for support over foam. I have only 1 and over time the styrofoam compresses and gives the feeling of a soft floor. I am thinking of going over with one more layer of 1/4 inch or laminate flooring. I was concerned with floor interfering with slide out if i built it up too thick
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:41 PM   #12
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2 more days of work:
-Used a bunch of Eternabond tape to seal any holes that go all the way thru. It took my dad on a creaper and me inside, shining lights at each other. There is a lot of road rash. I'm going to consider some sort of spray-on sealant underneath (later).
-ľ" bottom layer plywood, simply laid in place.
-2x2 (1.5" square) headers drilled/screwed to the aluminum base-framing on each side of camper.
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:50 PM   #13
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-2x3 (1.5x2.5") joists run side-to-side, perpendicular to the steel frame underneath. These are drilled-screwed on 45-deg angle to the headers, and glued (Liquid-Nails) to the bottom plywood.
-The insulation I found (48" x 3/4" x 13-5/8" at Lowes) is sized to go in walls between 1x3 furring strips (16" on-center). So 2 layers was perfect for my 2x3 joists. I pressed the joists firmly against the insulations as we screwed to the headers.
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:11 AM   #14
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That's looking good, it's the same area where my soft spot is, right under the window where the dinette was.... I also have one in the back under the pantry\small door at the bunk bed. Sound like I might get to replace a good bit of floor, I think I'm going to put in the vinyl peel and stick that comes in strips and looks like hardwood flooring.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:48 AM   #15
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That's the flooring we're leaning toward. We have that in our home kitchen, but it's actual glue-down (not peel-n-stick). The appraiser for our mortage refi actually wrote down "hardwood" floors. He didn't ask, so we didn't tell. You can keep extras of this stuff for damaged tiles, too.
I'm just not sure if peel-n-stick will be strong enough adhesive to handle the humidity/temp fluctuations, and flexing in transit.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:54 AM   #16
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From what it says, this kinda sounds like a floating floor.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMa...specifications
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:10 PM   #17
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Yeah, I saw a link where some installed that stuff in a motorhome. It's not peel-n-stick. More like a sort of snap-together, interlocking, floating floor.
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:27 PM   #18
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I'm so happy to have found this thread. I have the identical trailer with very similar problems. The floor at the main door is soft and the step is barely hanging on. The floor at the rear door has significant swelling, enough to buckle the wall at the front of the bed. I can't find any other soft spots so I hope it's somewhat contained to those 2 areas. I've been trying to figure out how the floor is constructed and this thread has done just that. I plan on repairing everything myself, so I will be interested in any additional info the OP can offer. We purchased the trailer 1 year ago and new some repairs were needed. Let the adventure begin.
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:02 PM   #19
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Ross-e,
Last year (before I started the big job), the same friend with the welding shop tacked in some steel supports for the step to keep it from falling out. You will find that the 2 outer bolts holding the step frame are probably still well-anchored into the aluminum frame. It's the 2 inner bolts (actually large wood screws) that are the problem, as they are screwed into 2 wood blocks that are likely just as waterlogged as mine were. These blocks were pieces of 2x4 set into cutouts of foam, sandwiched between the 2 plywood layers. As soon as the plywood starts to break down, those block no longer have support (and neither does the step.

The 1st pic is the support job we did last year, tying the step frame (both ends) directly to the main trailer frame. It is absolutely rock solid.
The 2nd pic is the new top plywood over the entryway. The foam was in good shape, and I didn't want to tear out. That first joist is positioned so that one of those wood screws will screw directly in to hold the step below. For the other side, I dropped in a new piece of 2x4 in the foam cutout. Both will get drilled and new wood screws installed.
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:19 PM   #20
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Here is my progress to date. Most of the plywood is now in place. The original plan was 1 layer of 1/4" over those joists, to bring things up to original height to match the hallway. Then another 1/4" layer over the entire interior. However, somehow, the joists near the hallway (existing floor) was already to the original height.
So I skipped the 1/4" completely, and put 1/2" (actually 15/32") plywood all the way thru. This means it's actually sloping up from the front to the entry door, but that should be find. I had 7/8" to the cabinet doors, so still plenty of room for the vinyl tile.
Plywood has screws and liquid nails to attach to the joists. For the entry way and hallway, the original 1/4" plywood is not solid enough for screws. So I'm relying completely on contact cement, plus a few screws where I patched in some new 1/4" (like that entry way, and in the bunkhouse).
Still need to put in the top plywood in the bunkhouse, and bathroom, then install the new toilet. Bought a hi-profile Thetford Style II (foot-flush) today.
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