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Old 07-09-2013, 10:27 PM   #21
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PS -
That jigsaw puzzle in the bunkhouse is simply the replacement of the original top layer of 1/4". The floor back there was still solid, but the top layer was starting to come loose on the left. The dark original wood is still solidly adhered. The new piece is held in place with some spray adhesive I found that won't eat the Styrofoam underneath.
Notice the elevator bolt on the left. I left it alone, and cut out the plywood there. This will be covered over by the 15/32".

We have reservations for July 25-28th!
(I think I can, I think I can.....)
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:47 PM   #22
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Thebrakeman:
Thanks for the update. I removed the linoleum at the front of the trailer and discovered the damage was more than expected. I had a lot of black soggy plywood at the storage doors beneath the couch and dinette. Again, the floor was not soft, but it was definately wet. I ended up removing all the plywood and foam (right down to the rubber membrane). It was nasty and smelled terrible. I have to replace everything from the door to the wall at the front storage. I was doing this work over the last few days (here in Toronto), during the intense rain that caused a lot of flooding. I didn't get flooded, but I did see where the water was entering the trailer. All the storage doors were leaking. I had to duct tape everything in the heavy rain, but at least I know where the water entered the trailer. I was going to post pictures of my trailer but they would look like "thebrakeman's" photos. I was fortunate that some of the wood was not rotted or stained (not down the hallway). The damage was mainly along the walls and seeped about 1-2 feet inward.
I'm not sure what to do with the membrane. There are a lot of holes in it. It would be very difficult to patch everywhere, so I might just spray with truck undercoating.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:15 AM   #23
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I recommend you document your work in a separate thread, but edit your post above with a link. Be sure you have those leaks fixed before you start the rebuild. Duct tape won't do it, but maybe that's just temporary while you did the tearout (?).
Think about how you want to support your new floor. I used the steel underneath, but maybe you have other ideas. I think someone else bolted treated lumber underneath.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:36 AM   #24
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Project completed! Total cost was just over $700, although I suspect my buddy gave me a deal on the steel work. We went camping with 7 other families this past weekend, and so glad to have a solid floor!

Oops points:
1. Forgot to cut 1/2" off of the rear folding bunk legs. Didn't mess anything up, but will correct this weekend.
2. Realized the 1/2" plywood overlay in the hall may give me a problem if I ever need to replace the convertor. (Knock on wood)
3. With new flooring installed, the transition from existing section to new section is slightly visible. Hopefully, I'll be the only one who notices.
4. Forgot to connect the water pump inlet line to the freshwater tank (which lives in the dinette seat). Fortunately, I notice the water draining onto the floor as soon as I started filling.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:54 AM   #25
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$700 did not include the new Thetford foot-flush toilet ($162 with sale & rebate), which wasn't necessary for the floor project. But I've always hated:
-Squatting onto that low-profile toilet - New is high-profile (3-4" taller).
-Using a seat that was clearly designed by a woman. New seat is 2" longer.
-Having to hand-flush while needing both hands at the dump station or winterizing. New is foot-flush. Bowl is also porcelin (easier to keep clean).
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:00 AM   #26
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Very nice results, I thought you were going back with some kind of wood looking floor? I love the new toilet, I'm a pretty good size fella and the original toilet in these things in a joke for sure.
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:57 AM   #27
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The more we thought about it, a wood-look would have it looking to much like a rustic cabin, considering the wood tones on the cabinets. Not that I have anything against rustic cabins! I just hope the peel-n-stick stays stuck. Any seams in the plywood were drawn down as best we could, and sanded. And as recommended, we put down some latex primer (Kilz 2). This seals the new wood, preventing the adhesive from being absorbed.
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:37 PM   #28
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Realy nice work, I picked up a lot of tips. I like the 2x2 metal bracing under flooring for added support, I might just go ahead and do that. My floor feels adiquit but I am a big guy and can feel it move.
Thanks for posting
John
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:40 PM   #29
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Did you ever figure out what caused the leak?
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Old 10-25-2013, 12:27 AM   #30
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You did a great job
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