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Old 09-04-2016, 08:40 AM   #11
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I wish that was true, and his problem is not the same as mine. The test light works if the fuse is bad or good only. I have the same problem with my lights, I can change that fuse before every trip, the lights work until I hit a bump in the road then it blows again, The TV has been checked by Ford nothing there. FR throw there hands up in the air and gave up. I also replaced the whole cord with a new one, check every light, and I would be damned if I can find it, I think staple, but how do you find it.... This has been been since day one. As long as the trailer doesn't move they will stay on 24/7...Don't mean to high jack the thread, but I can understand his frustration...
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Old 09-04-2016, 08:45 AM   #12
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Glenn....I would run new wire from nose down thru storage compartment to the hard propane line and using tie wraps, go to the rear and back up inside to the light fixtures

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Old 09-04-2016, 09:14 AM   #13
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What you have said went over my head, can you say that dumb man terms please

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Old 09-04-2016, 12:50 PM   #14
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There are 8 running lights it could be any of them, I also do not have any hard propane line except the one under the trailer that runs from the left side tank to my barbecue. There is no wires in either of my propane lockers. I have two lights in the skirt and 6 by the roof line. I can't see how to pull new wire through, and that's if they didn't staple it to a wall or something. I guess I'll just have to use the auto resetible fuse I put in its place the only bad thing about that is you have to shut your lights off for like 3 minstrel for it to reset.

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Old 09-04-2016, 02:31 PM   #15
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Go to the trailer pig tail junction box, remove cover, find out what color in your plug is taillights. Back at junction box, undo that wire from trailer......then on pigtail wire join a new wire and feed it ( might have to make new small hole), to any clearance light hot side and attach. Or, for a long drawn out process, you could pull one bulb at a time, test drive, go to next light bulb, pull it, and repeat process till fuse blows.. .trying to narrow down the grounding area.

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Old 09-04-2016, 02:42 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by bob caldwell View Post
Go to the trailer pig tail junction box, remove cover, find out what color in your plug is taillights. Back at junction box, undo that wire from trailer......then on pigtail wire join a new wire and feed it ( might have to make new small hole), to any clearance light hot side and attach. Or, for a long drawn out process, you could pull one bulb at a time, test drive, go to next light bulb, pull it, and repeat process till fuse blows.. .trying to narrow down the grounding area.

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Or is the ground line is not actually grounded anywhere swap the two wires and maybe the sway will clear the short if only the current 12 v wire is shorted to ground.
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:48 PM   #17
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Well it's for sure something is moving or it's blow the fuse just sitt'n....

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Old 09-04-2016, 02:51 PM   #18
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If it were mine, I'd pull all marker/ taillight fixtures and bulbs and reinstall one at a time, wiggling the wires at the same time try'n to duplicate condition

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Old 09-04-2016, 02:56 PM   #19
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If we knew where the factory picked up ( their first splice) into loom, then cut that connection, run a temp external wire to that point, that would narrow the field down....

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Old 09-04-2016, 09:19 PM   #20
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Glen should pull the front skylight. All the wires are right there under the trim. I have the same trailer. At least figure out which one it is isolate front to back as a start.
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