Tailights on TT

archham · 10-22-2009, 07:41 AM

Have a 2009 Surveyor SV210, only used it twice, and going out this weekend. Last time we used it, the right tailight went out on the way home. Stopped and got a pair of 3157 lights and replaced it. The bulb was cracked and full of water (it was raining that day) so I assumed the water got to it somehow. Checking things out last night and the left tailight was out. Replaced it and it worked fine. But then a few minutes later the right brake light quit working - still lights as a tail light but no brake light. We have had it about 3 months and it has travelled roughtly 600 miles. Thoughts?

MtnGuy · 10-22-2009, 09:03 AM

We had a similar situation. When getting ready to leave a campground back in the spring, I was checking out the lights and the right signal didn't work. I pulled the bulb out, and it was discolored, and then promptly broke in my fingers, causing a nasty gash. We traveled in torrential rain getting to the campground, and apparently water hit the hot bulb causing it to crack and quit working. Unusual bulb, but did find a replacement at a local parts store. 1 of my winter projects is to weatherize that the cover so no more water will get to the bulbs.

Maybe clean the contacts to your non working bulb and fitting, and weatherizing the bulb cover so water won't get in there in the future ???

archham · 10-22-2009, 09:16 AM

Thanks - the bulb that quit working last night has not been wet. It was put in on Labor Day and driven home - it worked then and worked originally when I tested it last night - then stopped working....I hate wiring issues..

MtnGuy · 10-22-2009, 12:13 PM

It is possible that since the socket had gotten wet previously, that there is some rust in there. With both the tail lites, brakes, and signal lites off (better yet unplugged from the TV), I use a fine steel wool and twist around in there and on the bulb base to get rid of any corrosion. Be sure that you blow out all reminents of the steel wool before operating the lights again.....any remaining bits could short out the system, or even cause a fire in the socket.

But 1st, I would just try another bulb, to make sure the bulb is still good......those things do happen.

archham · 10-22-2009, 01:07 PM

Ok that sounds like a good plan. What about WD 40? Is that a bad thing to spray in the sockets?

MtnGuy · 10-22-2009, 01:51 PM

I might let others chime on that.....really not sure. I am interested myself on that.

cfsoistman · 10-22-2009, 02:18 PM

Be sure there's no current to the sockets before using anything. It could be dangerous. I'd use a contact cleaner similar to the stuff Radio Shack sells. http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103700

Be sure it's plastic friendly though. You don't want to have the plastic melting from the solvents in the cleaner.
Website states it's for automotive electronics as well.

I'd then use the following grease or something similar.
http://www.amazon.com/Lubrimatic-117.../dp/B001446LP4

archham · 10-23-2009, 07:23 AM

OK, sounds good! Thanks for the input.

rockwood06 · 10-23-2009, 08:29 AM

You can use electrical contact spray. The stuff I use is "Sprayon Electrical Spray #S00611", It is a clear lacquer. This is safe on plastics as well and waterproof and weatherproof.

**KyDan** · 10-23-2009, 08:45 AM

We had a boat for over 14 years.
Every time we went to the lake to launch the boat our trailer
was dunked in the water.
There was no way to keep the tail lights and side marker lights
dry.
I originally tried Vaseline petroleum jelly on the sockets but it
reacted with the brass base on the bulbs and turned them black.
So I cleaned them and then began putting a large finger full
of silicone grease in each socket before inserting the bulbs.
That worked wonderfully.
Once I'd done that, I never had another failure due to socket
corrosion.
In fact, I often forgot to unplug the trailer before dunking and still
did not break or burn out bulbs.

It was DOW silicone O ring grease but I don't know where to tell
you to go buy it. I just know it worked and I still have about half
a tube so I'm good for life!
I also use it in my upward pointing flag pole spot light.

rockwood06 · 10-23-2009, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyDan

We had a boat for over 14 years.
Every time we went to the lake to launch the boat our trailer
was dunked in the water.
There was no way to keep the tail lights and side marker lights
dry.
I originally tried Vaseline petroleum jelly on the sockets but it
reacted with the brass base on the bulbs and turned them black.
So I cleaned them and then began putting a large finger full
of silicone grease in each socket before inserting the bulbs.
That worked wonderfully.
Once I'd done that, I never had another failure due to socket
corrosion.
In fact, I often forgot to unplug the trailer before dunking and still
did not break or burn out bulbs.

It was DOW silicone O ring grease but I don't know where to tell
you to go buy it. I just know it worked and I still have about half
a tube so I'm good for life!
I also use it in my upward pointing flag pole spot light.

Kydan, what color is it? we use O ring grease at work on some of our pumps. I may be able to locate It. Is there a number on the tub?

**KyDan** · 10-23-2009, 10:27 AM

It is DOW corning 111.
Green tube.
Any type silicone grease would be great as it repels water and is
not affected much by temperature and won't react with brass or
metal contacts.

Happy Camping!
KyDan

IIFID · 10-23-2009, 12:16 PM

I use white lithium grease on my bulbs and wheel lugs anything that could rust I still have no problems getting the lug nuts off the boat trailer or bulbs blowing.

LadyWindrider · 10-23-2009, 01:32 PM

You can use any "di-electric" grease. This means it won't conduct electricity. You don't want the grease shorting your contacts. Some of the best stuff is "spark plug boot" grease, available at auto parts stores.

You may also like: