Trailer plugged into my house

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Big Dawg

I ran a 30 amp service to the side of my house where I park my TT. I put a seperate 30 amp breaker in my main service of the house, and have the box outside for hookup. It's nice to hook up before trips to get the fridge ready, and for working in the TT.

I did as well. If I had to do it over again I would use a "disconnect" type box so I don't have to go inside and flip the breaker every time I plug in or disconnect.

[electromagn8]

I am thinking that you need 30Amp @ 120volts, this will require a 30 single pole breaker, 10/2 cable (at least), and a 30amp receptacle (line 1, neutral, ground). This can be determined if you have a 3 prong plug. If you have a 4 prong plug, then you need 50Amps @ 240volts (line 1, line 2, neutral, ground). This will require at least 8/3 cable. I bought my 30amp rv receptacle in a weather proof enclosure at home depot for $19.99. Cable on the other hand, is getting quite expensive.

[Busman1947]

The question you need to answer first is where does the wire off of the 30 amp breaker go to. For thirty amps the wiring must be a size 10 guage. If your trailer has only one A/C then a thirty amp service will take care of your needs. I do not recommend plugging your trailer into a thirty amp plug which converts to a 15 amp and run the A/C, it will draw too many amps when it comes on. The 14 gauage wiring in your house cannot handle the heat.

I would fing the plug that the 30 amp breaker goes to and make sure it is 10 guage wiring, then install a R/V 30 amp box to plug your trailer into. This way you can run anything in your trailer. Good Luck.

[cbrown]

Here is what I have

[Herk7769]

You have two "mains"; One 30 amps and the other 20 amps

I suspect all the "top" split breakers are off the 30 amp breaker and all the "bottoms" are off the 20 amp breaker.

[onetonford]

My trailer has the same panel only they put the main wiring to the 30 amp the other 20 they used for the Water Heater.
Some how I think they never labled that breaker right it possibly goes to some thing else. If you look real close and compare the labels from the bottom up you would see that the 20 is for the Air conditioner.after looking closer at his pic they have put a breaker on the bottom labled A/c and if you look close they put a line thru the air cond and wrote spare. also if you look even closer the label says it is a 30 panel.

[cfsoistman]

Originally Posted by electromagn8

I am thinking that you need 30Amp @ 120volts, this will require a 30 single pole breaker, 10/2 cable (at least), and a 30amp receptacle (line 1, neutral, ground). This can be determined if you have a 3 prong plug. If you have a 4 prong plug, then you need 50Amps @ 240volts (line 1, line 2, neutral, ground). This will require at least 8/3 cable. I bought my 30amp rv receptacle in a weather proof enclosure at home depot for $19.99. Cable on the other hand, is getting quite expensive.

That 50 amps is NOT 240 volts. Although a double pole breaker is used it is basically 2- 50 amp single pole 120 volt breakers. It's wired similar but 240 volts has no neutral.

[Herk7769]

I think we are all talking "around" the same thing here with the 240 or 2 120 volt issue.
It is one of those "not as rare as you think" times when everyone is "right" but coming from different angles.
This type of argument never has a winner and only leads to hardship and bad feelings.

Worse yet, cfsoistman and VTX Al are absolutely correct.
A photo is worth a thousand words. That is a "stock" WFCO 30 amp panel, NOT a 50 amp panel.
Working from a flawed assumption can lead you down all kinds of very wrong paths.

[jimh]

Originally Posted by cbrown

Hey everyone this is my first post here I have a quick question I have a Cherokee light 28a, I am trying to get power from my house to my trailer how do I go about doing so. I have a connector that will connect a regular 110 line to the line in on the trailer. I was looking at the fuse panel and it showing me 2 breakers 1 being 20 and 1 being 30 on the main lines. to me that means 50 amp breaker I will need a 50 amp line coming from my house or I will be popping the circuit at my house correct? is there some type of invetor i need to switch so I can use the AC from house?

Thank you in advanced !

what i am abt to state, has been stated in the many post already so i am just restating it here.
you can adapt what ever u have to the 20 amp house service with off the shelf adapters.
on the 20 amp, u should be able to run the lighting, frig, and and a/c. if u want to run the microwave or hw heater, u will most likely have to shut off the a/c.
if u ever watched green acres, just put numbers on everything and go for a total....
if ur going to run new service, you may want to run 50 amp with #6 wire. that way u would be set for future (assuming u aren't 50 amp now).

50 amp service is actually 70 amps more than the 30 amp service. (50 amp is actually two 50 amp services and 30 amp is one 30 amp service)

[cbrown]

What started all of this is when switching the breakers on the microwave would not turn on. Usually electrical is easy for me but this is just blowing my mind hahahaha!

[jimh]

try switching the wire from the microwave to a different breaker. may be a bad breaker.
i'm in the process of running a larger wire to my microwave because i changed to a convection/microwave.
another thought is to plug a light or something into the microwave outlet and see if the light works. if it does, try running the microwave (w/cup of water inside) and see if the light continues to burn.

i'm assuming the microwave is plugged in ie didn't get knocked out...
there is also a fuse in the microwave.

[VTX Al]

Originally Posted by cbrown

What started all of this is when switching the breakers on the microwave would not turn on. Usually electrical is easy for me but this is just blowing my mind hahahaha!

Sometimes I think that we all need a circuit breaker between our eyes that can be reset when required !!! Seriously tho, if you have all the breakers reset to "on" and all the fuses are known good, and then still no power to your microwave then IMHO you have a problem somewhere else. Perhaps the microwave itself Good luck

...VTX-AL

[frankm]

Originally Posted by herk7769

You have two "mains"; One 30 amps and the other 20 amps

I suspect all the "top" split breakers are off the 30 amp breaker and all the "bottoms" are off the 20 amp breaker.

herk7769, I'm not so sure about this, but then again electricity isn't really my forte. Why would a 30amp panel have two mains if there is a single bus? If you look at the picture closer and count the breakers and labels from the bottom up you find out that the second from the top breaker originally labeled A/C is now a spare and not a second 20amp main. I think.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by frankm

herk7769, I'm not so sure about this, but then again electricity isn't really my forte. Why would a 30amp panel have two mains if there is a single bus? If you look at the picture closer and count the breakers and labels from the bottom up you find out that the second from the top breaker originally labeled A/C is now a spare and not a second 20amp main. I think.

I did post I was wrong.
Do I need to start a thread to let everyone know?

[frankm]

Originally Posted by herk7769

I did post I was wrong.
Do I need to start a thread to let everyone know?

Oh no, no, sorry!!!I'm usually one that reads all posts before posting a reply and I really goofed this one! (Ok, I've messed up a couple of times!) My bad!

[cfsoistman]

It's strange that they used a Tandem 30-20 Breaker as a 30 amp Main and a 20 amp breaker for A/C or anything else. I guess there's no electrical inspections when they build these things. A Regular Residential Main Breaker would have to be a standard size 30 amp single pole breaker, not a tandem breaker. Tandem breakers are no where as near reliable as a standard single pole breaker.
They use Square "D" Homeline brand in the RVs.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by frankm

Oh no, no, sorry!!!I'm usually one that reads all posts before posting a reply and I really goofed this one! (Ok, I've messed up a couple of times!) My bad!

As I said before, it is availability, a desire to learn, and a reasonably good memory (so far) that keeps me here. I try to research every thread before I post, but I sometimes shoot, then aim. This was such a case.

[onetonford]

Originally Posted by frankm

herk7769, I'm not so sure about this, but then again electricity isn't really my forte. Why would a 30amp panel have two mains if there is a single bus? If you look at the picture closer and count the breakers and labels from the bottom up you find out that the second from the top breaker originally labeled A/C is now a spare and not a second 20amp main. I think.

That is what I said in my post. Ive been a Industrial electrician for almost 20+ years and if you also notticed in the photo that some body put a new double 20 at the bottom and labled it ac in the wrong spot crossed it out and labeled the next one up as ac.

[Herk7769]

Wow,

Build a thousand bridges, but am I Pierre the Bridge Builder? No!

But just ...

well you get the drift.

[onetonford]

Originally Posted by cfsoistman

It's strange that they used a Tandem 30-20 Breaker as a 30 amp Main and a 20 amp breaker for A/C or anything else. I guess there's no electrical inspections when they build these things. A Regular Residential Main Breaker would have to be a standard size 30 amp single pole breaker, not a tandem breaker. Tandem breakers are no where as near reliable as a standard single pole breaker.
They use Square "D" Homeline brand in the RVs.

Most of the RV industry uses that style of breakers because of space saving they do have a standard to follow it is called RIVA.