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Old 05-03-2011, 08:09 PM   #1
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Trailer plugged into my house

Hey everyone this is my first post here I have a quick question I have a Cherokee light 28a, I am trying to get power from my house to my trailer how do I go about doing so. I have a connector that will connect a regular 110 line to the line in on the trailer. I was looking at the fuse panel and it showing me 2 breakers 1 being 20 and 1 being 30 on the main lines. to me that means 50 amp breaker I will need a 50 amp line coming from my house or I will be popping the circuit at my house correct? is there some type of invetor i need to switch so I can use the AC from house?

Thank you in advanced !
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:15 PM   #2
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You can get an adapter for 30 amp cord to 15 amp at any camp store or Walmart.
Fine for charging battery, running lights and fridge.
Just don't run the air conditioning and electric water heat.
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:23 PM   #3
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Is there an inverter that needs to be switched ? or does it switch automatically
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:41 PM   #4
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automatic
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:53 PM   #5
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Thanks guys
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Old 05-04-2011, 08:22 AM   #6
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So If i wanted to run the air and water heater I would need a 50 amp line coming from my house correct? Are most camp grounds now a days 50 amps?
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Old 05-04-2011, 08:30 AM   #7
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You should be able to run the A/C on a 30 amp plug. The CGs I've been to have 30A at most sites. 50A is usually for the big class A and 5th wheels.
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Old 05-04-2011, 08:49 AM   #8
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In my fuse box I have two breakers on the main labeled line one is a 30 and one is a 20 does that sound right?
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:32 AM   #9
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The 20 amp fuse was probably added for the AC or water heater. Your Cherokee light is a 30 amp service. get the plug adapter from RV male to 110v standard wall plug, and you're in business. I personally even run my air on that setup, but just for an hour or two while unloading from a trip, at times. If you plug the camper into a GFI breaker at home; it may trip the breaker- some do, and some don't. I plug mine into a non GFI, and it works fine. Don't go any longer than the supplied wire, or usually the wires will get very hot. Good luck, Randy
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:07 AM   #10
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Randy do you know why the GFI outlets trip?
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrown View Post
Randy do you know why the GFI outlets trip?
A GFCI can NOT be plugged into another GFCI.
They become unreliable.
To be "code" most garage circuits are GFCI.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:45 AM   #12
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AHHHH! I get it .
So now here is another question if most camp sites are only 30 amp and i have a 30 amp and a 50 amp as one stated before the 20 is prob for the AC or water heater. how does that work when it comes to being a camp site because thats an extra 20 then most supply?
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:09 AM   #13
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Your trailer is a 30A service - that means that, along with the shore cable connector types, the main service fuse in the on-board converter has a 30A breaker. When plugged into your house source any total draw through your on-board converter that exceeds 30A will pop the converter 30A breakeror the house 30A breaker. That being said, if the house circuit that your shore power cable is plugged into fused (circuit breaker) at 20A it will pop when the total draw on that circuit, including what is demanded through your shore power cable, exceeds 20A. Likewise 30A if you are connected through a 30A breaker.
As far as campsite power pedestals are concerned, some are 30A, some are 50A , each with dedicated specialty receptacles, and some are both 30A and 50A with a dedicated specialty receptacle for each. You can plug your 30A trailer service into a 50A receptacle with a proper adapter, BUT if you have a 50A trailer service, you cannot plug into the campground 30A service because you can pop the campground breaker by exceeding the 30A breaker-limited service.

Confusing enough ???
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:16 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrown View Post
AHHHH! I get it .
So now here is another question if most camp sites are only 30 amp and i have a 30 amp and a 50 amp as one stated before the 20 is prob for the AC or water heater. how does that work when it comes to being a camp site because thats an extra 20 then most supply?
OK, I am going to make an assumption so don't beat me up if I am off base.

The 30 amp breaker and the 20 amp breaker you speak of ARE IN THE CAMPER.

Photos make all this better. Here is a photo of my Camper breaker panel.
The 30 amp breaker is the AC "MAIN" The 15 amp breakers are the load lines.

Is that right?
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:58 AM   #15
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50 amps will be a 2 pole 50 amp breaker which is actually 2- 50 amp single pole 120 volt breakers but are joined. Think of it this way. Split the electric panel in half. 1- 50 amp single pole breaker protects each half. They are the overall protection for every breaker in the electric panel for their side. Each side will have one AC unit on each side, the Microwave on one side, electric for the water heater on the opposite side and the receptacles and GFIC will be equally distributed on each side of the panel.
If there is only a 30 amp breaker labeled Main that's all there is coming into the trailer. It will be a three prong plug. Click image for larger version

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A 50 amp service will have a plug like this.

Click image for larger version

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Old 05-04-2011, 12:04 PM   #16
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Thanks Charlie.

Not smart on the 50 amp stuff. I got confused (easy to do) with the two different breakers (30 and 20) he was talking about.
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:09 PM   #17
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I will take a picture of this tonight so I can show you what I mean I apprecaite the help guys!
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
Thanks Charlie.

Not smart on the 50 amp stuff. I got confused (easy to do) with the two different breakers (30 and 20) he was talking about.
No problem. It's a bit confusing when you see a Double Pole breaker but it's not 240 volts. I've explained it to a few people that still think I'm wrong but there's nothing in my coach that runs on 240 volts. They have a hard time understanding that there are 2 line voltage wires in, 1 neutral wire, and 1 ground wire. It's basically 2- 120 volt lines running through 1 cord, sharing the neutral and ground. One person wanted to use the feed that he has for a welder but they're not the same. That welder circuit is 240 volts. 2 line voltage and 1 ground, No Neutral. I never heard from him again about whether he used it or not. He's probably still replacing the appliances he fried if he didn't listen?

Here's the 50 amp RV Plug 120 Volts
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Here's a 50 amp Welder Plug 240 Volts

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Old 05-04-2011, 12:39 PM   #19
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I had a friend explain 220 (240) recently that made the light go on for me.

I asked him why the neutral was not twice the size of the hot wires since the neutral had to return the amps supplied on each hot. My "DUH" moment came when he explained that with 220 AC, the black (and red) hot wires ONLY HAVE POWER ON THEM 1/2 the time. They alternate positive and negative. That is why there is 240 between the two hots and 120 between the neutral and either hot.

So while there is 50 amps available on each leg and returned through the neutral, the 50 amps is only available alternately on each leg so the maximum return on the neutral can never exceed 50 amps.
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:41 PM   #20
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I ran a 30 amp service to the side of my house where I park my TT. I put a seperate 30 amp breaker in my main service of the house, and have the box outside for hookup. It's nice to hook up before trips to get the fridge ready, and for working in the TT.
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