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Old 04-02-2010, 05:31 PM   #11
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Dino oils are going at least 5M miles nowadays and many manufacturers are at 7.5 or even 10M. Not trying to start a war!! BUT dino oils have changed a LOT. Nobody need get defensive about their choice to use synthetics. (I used them for years up until this last year. Used AMSOIL and Mobil 1). I'm currently not using them anymore as the Dino's have narrowed the gap and have excellent results. Changing ANY oil at 3M miles is a waste of money IMO. Motorcraft is a synthetic blend anyway I believe . . .

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Old 04-02-2010, 07:41 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by acadianbob View Post
Motorcraft is a synthetic blend anyway I believe . . .
Exactly. Don't go cheap, but no need to go crazy. Go with at least what the manufacture uses. I'm using Pennzoil SUV and Truck blend for my 30Valve V10. Runs about $6 a quart.

I read the spec sheet on the Pennzoil site and it appears to be a good match for the Motorcraft and it's pretty easy to find.

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Old 04-02-2010, 11:04 PM   #13
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Mobil 1 for me! I run it in every engine I own. I used to run Castrol GTX 10w40, and the oil would be black at 3000 miles change. The Mobil 1 synthetic looks almost as good after 5000 miles as it did when installed in the car. Good stuff!!! Randy
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:00 AM   #14
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Engines are designed with tolerances. The tolerances, especially at the cylinder/ring /piston and the main bearings/caps/journals/shaft is to allow the motor oil to fill into the gap and set up a lubricating film that the metal surfaces ride on. The film prevents direct metal contact. Don't use slick 50. Motor oil is what needs to be there. You guys who have done the builds seen this: It's not optional to measure the clearences. Torques are checked and rechecked and final torque is approached in three stages. The engine is disassembled to see if the clearences where within specs, and the block is reassembled. Engine assembly lube is used to fill the clearances until the crank case is filled and the motor is ready to run. The oil filter is prefilled, the oil pump is primed, and the start up after a fresh overhaul or new block is just turning over the motor to circulate engine oil. Lube is important but not appreciated by casual drivers. Every precaution is taken to keep metal surfaces from dry contact, ever.

The thing is the tolerances are designed into the motor built to run with motor oil or more recently, synthetic. Not oil plus an additive. Some guys install expensive electric oil pumps to ensure every start up is well lubricated. I saw one mechanic trip the fuel pump after some engine work to prevent the motor from starting just to circulate the oil. I thought he was crazy at first but I learned from him to respect the oil and its job.

As far as engine oil, all the manufacturer needs you to do to keep that motor healthy is to change the oil and filter at the interval specified in the manual with the fluid specified. Anything else just isn't necessary. Chevy specifies synthetics everywhere except the motor oil and brake fluid. You enjoy extended intervals on synthetics IF you do the analysis. Synthetic motor fluid is superior in one clear category - less is used by synthetic users who change their oil less frequently. It works. Why don't more people use it? My guess is it costs more and by the end of a few intervals, you changed your oil less but spent just as much on oil. It's just my guess. If you do alot of hard driving and pass the intervals from time to time, synthetic fluids are a little more forgiving. If you are doing the oil analysis. In my mind, my tow vehicle is not a good candidate for synthetic motor fluid. I find it necessary to change the oil regularly to be confident it's ready for every trip.

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Old 04-04-2010, 07:12 PM   #15
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I use Valvoline Syn oil and change the filter at 3.5K miles. I will leave the oil for another 3.5 K then fresh oil and filter. Since I don't tow too often it works for me. Maybe a waste of money but it gives me piece of mind. I used Valvoline in the Ford I had previously without any troubles. Regular maintanence I think is the key.

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Old 04-04-2010, 10:30 PM   #16
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Oil should get black, that tells you it is cleaning the engine. The burning of gas creates carbon, and it goes in the engine. The oil should turn black after a while to show that has been cleaning. That's really the need to change the oil, because it is dirty. The oil doesn't wear out, it just gets dirty. Filters can't do enough cleaning for the oil flow required by an engine. If you don't change your oil often enough, (depends on driving style, conditions..........), then beware of the SLUDGE MONSTER shown in the Castrol commercials. No I'm not saying they're better, just there is some truth to them. My 2 cents.

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