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04-02-2010, 05:43 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: north alabama
Posts: 18
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TV engine oil additive
Anybody use oil additives like slick 50?I thought about using some kind due to higher RPM when towing.Any suggestions?
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04-02-2010, 07:27 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Dahlgren VA
Posts: 317
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Slick 50 has teflon in it. Also any aditive will void your engine warranty. having said that, I used SFR corp synthic additive for years (I am a distributer) made in butte Montana for the logging truckers. It has the protection your looking for when starting the engines. But, For my new cars I have gone to Valvoline Synthetic that has a warranty for 300,000 miles. And it doesn't void the new car warranty.
__________________
Ken and Velda
Dahlgren, VA.
2008 Georgetown XL 378
2010 Ford Escape Limited
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04-02-2010, 07:37 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kvtaylor
Slick 50 has teflon in it. Also any aditive will void your engine warranty. having said that, I used SFR corp synthic additive for years (I am a distributer) made in butte Montana for the logging truckers. It has the protection your looking for when starting the engines. But, For my new cars I have gone to Valvoline Synthetic that has a warranty for 300,000 miles. And it doesn't void the new car warranty.
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Question about Synthetic oil, I am sure this Is something that should be used If one tows a lot but, what If you don't like maybe 4 or 5 times during the camping season?
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04-02-2010, 07:52 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Justin, Tx
Posts: 2,671
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I run syn oil in every ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) I own, vehicles, lawn mower, tiller, chain saw....... My preference is Amsoil but IMO any syn oil is good to go. That being said..... A good quality dyno oil is good to go (Rotella T is my preference) as long as you follow recommended changing intervals. I can just go longer with syn.
My wife's car has 189k+ miles on it and we change the oil ever 25k miles or 1 year per Amsoil specs with stock filter changes at 3k as Amsoil doesn't make a filter for her Saturn. This car does not burn a bit of oil and I only top off about a 1/4 cup of oil when changing the filters.
My truck has been running Amsoil with a bypass filtration system for over 120k miles. Filters get changed every 20k along with an oil test about 2 weeks prio to the change to verify the oil is G2G. Top off consists of a schosh over 3 qts of oil after changing the 2 filters. It burns about 1/2 quart of oil ever 5k miles but I can live with that. I just did a complete oil change 10k miles ago after 110k miles on the same oil (which tested good) because I needed to replace the drain plug gasket as I was getting an annoying drip from it.
I don't care to start a debate just stating what works for me.
YMMV
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04-02-2010, 12:34 PM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 3,367
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IMO you do not need any additives and benefits, if any, are minimal. Dino oils have improved significantly in the last 10 years. Synthetics are still better but the gap between syn and dino is much smaller than it used to be.
__________________
2021 F350 Lariat 7.3 4X4 w 4.30s, 2018 Wildcat 29RLX
2012 BMW G650GS, Demco Premiere Slider
1969 John Deere 1020, 1940 Ford 9N, 1948 Ford 8N
Jonsered 535, Can of WD-40, Duct Tape
Red Green coffee mugs
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04-02-2010, 01:46 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hemet, Ca
Posts: 125
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AMSOIL all day...nothing more / nothing less in all my vehicles.
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04-02-2010, 02:05 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island (Nassau County), NY
Posts: 4,352
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aingotnun,
have you ever made a cost comparison of changing dino oil and filter every 3k mi to changing synthetic oil every 25k and filter every 3k?
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Tom and Margaret
2014 Berkshire 390bh-60
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04-02-2010, 02:42 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Justin, Tx
Posts: 2,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmmar
aingotnun,
have you ever made a cost comparison of changing dino oil and filter every 3k mi to changing synthetic oil every 25k and filter every 3k?
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doing this from memory so please forgive any out there numbers.......
Dino $3-6 a quart
Amsoil $8-9 a quart
Roughly 8 oil changes for 25k miles @ $16 for oil each dino change $128.
Amsoil $36 for one change + a bit for shipping so round up to $40. (yes shipping looks low but I buy in bulk so it works out to around $4 or less for one gallon). Then add maybe another $8 total for the 1/4 cup top offs at filter changes..
The filters are a wash ($3.50 each) as they have to be changed every 3k miles anyway. I don't count that but if you wanted to add another $30 or so after tax to each situation.
Add to that, I don't have to crawl under the car but once a year.
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04-02-2010, 04:45 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 309
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I figure as long as you run at least what the engine manufacture requires you'll be okay. When was the last time you heard of someone needing an engine rebuild because they ran "cheap oil"?
For those that groove on viscosity and love the idea of bathing all that metal in the perfect mixture of dead dinosaurs and modern chemistry, I offer the following link:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
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04-02-2010, 05:23 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aintgotnun
The filters are a wash ($3.50 each) as they have to be changed every 3k miles anyway.
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I wasn't under the impression that the filter needed changed every 3k miles, per BMW specifications on my car, they require the use of Mobile 1 synthetic oil, changed every 15k, or annually, but they say nothing of changing the filter in between the oil changes.
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04-02-2010, 05:31 PM
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 3,367
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Dino oils are going at least 5M miles nowadays and many manufacturers are at 7.5 or even 10M. Not trying to start a war!! BUT dino oils have changed a LOT. Nobody need get defensive about their choice to use synthetics. (I used them for years up until this last year. Used AMSOIL and Mobil 1). I'm currently not using them anymore as the Dino's have narrowed the gap and have excellent results. Changing ANY oil at 3M miles is a waste of money IMO. Motorcraft is a synthetic blend anyway I believe . . .
__________________
2021 F350 Lariat 7.3 4X4 w 4.30s, 2018 Wildcat 29RLX
2012 BMW G650GS, Demco Premiere Slider
1969 John Deere 1020, 1940 Ford 9N, 1948 Ford 8N
Jonsered 535, Can of WD-40, Duct Tape
Red Green coffee mugs
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04-02-2010, 07:41 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acadianbob
Motorcraft is a synthetic blend anyway I believe . . .
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Exactly. Don't go cheap, but no need to go crazy. Go with at least what the manufacture uses. I'm using Pennzoil SUV and Truck blend for my 30Valve V10. Runs about $6 a quart.
I read the spec sheet on the Pennzoil site and it appears to be a good match for the Motorcraft and it's pretty easy to find.
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04-02-2010, 11:04 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 1,264
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Mobil 1 for me! I run it in every engine I own. I used to run Castrol GTX 10w40, and the oil would be black at 3000 miles change. The Mobil 1 synthetic looks almost as good after 5000 miles as it did when installed in the car. Good stuff!!! Randy
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/SIGPIC]'08 V-lite Flagstaff 30WRLS
'06 Ram 1500 QC hemi Reese dual cam sway control,
K&N series 77 intake, Hellwig helper spgs. LT tires,
Flowmaster "true duals", 380 h.p., Bilstein shocks
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04-04-2010, 02:00 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 106
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Engines are designed with tolerances. The tolerances, especially at the cylinder/ring /piston and the main bearings/caps/journals/shaft is to allow the motor oil to fill into the gap and set up a lubricating film that the metal surfaces ride on. The film prevents direct metal contact. Don't use slick 50. Motor oil is what needs to be there. You guys who have done the builds seen this: It's not optional to measure the clearences. Torques are checked and rechecked and final torque is approached in three stages. The engine is disassembled to see if the clearences where within specs, and the block is reassembled. Engine assembly lube is used to fill the clearances until the crank case is filled and the motor is ready to run. The oil filter is prefilled, the oil pump is primed, and the start up after a fresh overhaul or new block is just turning over the motor to circulate engine oil. Lube is important but not appreciated by casual drivers. Every precaution is taken to keep metal surfaces from dry contact, ever.
The thing is the tolerances are designed into the motor built to run with motor oil or more recently, synthetic. Not oil plus an additive. Some guys install expensive electric oil pumps to ensure every start up is well lubricated. I saw one mechanic trip the fuel pump after some engine work to prevent the motor from starting just to circulate the oil. I thought he was crazy at first but I learned from him to respect the oil and its job.
As far as engine oil, all the manufacturer needs you to do to keep that motor healthy is to change the oil and filter at the interval specified in the manual with the fluid specified. Anything else just isn't necessary. Chevy specifies synthetics everywhere except the motor oil and brake fluid. You enjoy extended intervals on synthetics IF you do the analysis. Synthetic motor fluid is superior in one clear category - less is used by synthetic users who change their oil less frequently. It works. Why don't more people use it? My guess is it costs more and by the end of a few intervals, you changed your oil less but spent just as much on oil. It's just my guess. If you do alot of hard driving and pass the intervals from time to time, synthetic fluids are a little more forgiving. If you are doing the oil analysis. In my mind, my tow vehicle is not a good candidate for synthetic motor fluid. I find it necessary to change the oil regularly to be confident it's ready for every trip.
Steve:
"Mixture of dead dinosaurs and modern chemistry" - Well stated and funny.
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04-04-2010, 07:12 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fraser, Michigan
Posts: 329
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I use Valvoline Syn oil and change the filter at 3.5K miles. I will leave the oil for another 3.5 K then fresh oil and filter. Since I don't tow too often it works for me. Maybe a waste of money but it gives me piece of mind. I used Valvoline in the Ford I had previously without any troubles. Regular maintanence I think is the key.
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Jim & Kathy
Bailey, waiting at the Rainbow Bridge
Gracie, a rescued Beagle
2007 Chevy Tahoe
2008 FR Surveyor 233T
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04-04-2010, 10:30 PM
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#16
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 2,381
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Oil should get black, that tells you it is cleaning the engine. The burning of gas creates carbon, and it goes in the engine. The oil should turn black after a while to show that has been cleaning. That's really the need to change the oil, because it is dirty. The oil doesn't wear out, it just gets dirty. Filters can't do enough cleaning for the oil flow required by an engine. If you don't change your oil often enough, (depends on driving style, conditions..........), then beware of the SLUDGE MONSTER shown in the Castrol commercials. No I'm not saying they're better, just there is some truth to them. My 2 cents.
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LadyWindrider
2012 Ford F250 ext. Cab 4x4
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
2008 Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic
2008 Work and Play 18LT
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