Whats the biggest trailer I can pull with my f-150??

firstTT · 03-16-2010, 06:19 PM

I have an '08 F-150 2wd crew 4.6v8/3.55rear tow package. My wife, myself and our 2 small kids are going to buy a travel trailer this spring. Can anyone recommend a specific make/model, length or weight trailer that I will be able to pull comfortably when loaded and still accommodate us all?

Dave_Monica · 03-16-2010, 09:16 PM

Welcome to FRF! Visit often!

With the info you provided on your tow vehicle, a bunkhouse camper about 25 - 26 ft, perhaps with a small slide, as long as the gross weight is less than 6500lbs.

It'll provide many nights of happy camping!

Dave

chevy02 · 03-16-2010, 09:24 PM

From what i could find you`re tow rated at 8000-9000lbs so you could go up to a 28 ft as far as wieght goes but you will need a good hitch and weight distrubution bar and an anti sway unit to haul this size camper safely

TulsaSteve · 03-16-2010, 09:28 PM

A resource you may be interested in:

https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/...TTgdeSep08.pdf

Dave_Monica · 03-16-2010, 09:45 PM

The chart says 6400lbs max for conventional towing assuming its a short bed.. The limiter is the 4.6L with the 3.55 rear end ratio.

Dave

grhodes50 · 03-16-2010, 10:39 PM

I had an '04 F-150, Reg Cab, short bed, 4.6 V8, 3:55 gears, 6,600 lbs max tow rating. At the time I had a 26' Salem tt with dry weight of approx 5400 lbs., so I was probably around my max when loaded. In less than a year I traded for a 5.4 V8.

Alot depends on what kind of terrain you plan to travel. I would try to find a tt that is approx. 5,000 lbs dry and load as little as possible.

There are alot of choices out there. Of course I recommend a Forest River product. Look at their Grey Wolf or Salem lines.

www.forestriverinc.com/nd/default22.asp?nav=rec

Good luck and let us know what you find.

firstTT · 03-18-2010, 06:51 PM

Thank you for the warm welcome Dave and you are exactly right, the small block and the bad gear ratio are big limiters (not that my half ton suspension, etc. are helping any).

To answer Mr. Rhodes, I am trying to be realistic and target the NC coastline, and local lake campgrounds but would like to have the ability to pull the trailer over the foothills and in to the Appalachains. I have always had 3/4-1 ton trucks and have never tried pulling with anything less. My fear is the light weight truck being pulled around rather than the trailer. I realize I can pull "up to 6500" so says Ford but I would love to know what actually feels safe and proportionate for my truck without having to by a trailer to find out.

Would it be unreasonable to pull a 4500-5000lb (UVW) trailer up to a mountain campground with my setup? Does length play a part? do the aerodynamic shapes really help that much with wind resistance? I have a ton of questions for you guys..........buckle your seatbelts.

Dave_Monica · 03-18-2010, 10:48 PM

I believe that with a good weight distribution hitch with sway control, such a Equal-i-zer or Reese Dual Cam, along with a good brake controller you should be just fine as far as handling and stopping. The only issue is pulling that weight up grades. If you want, a axle ratio change on your truck is easy as it's a 2wd...I'd go as high as 4.10. You'll give up some gas mileage, but it will tackle the hills much better.

To put things in perspective, that truck with a 5.4L and 3.73 rear ratio is rated for 9500 lbs.

Dave

grhodes50 · 03-18-2010, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firstTT

To answer Mr. Rhodes, I am trying to be realistic and target the NC coastline, and local lake campgrounds but would like to have the ability to pull the trailer over the foothills and in to the Appalachains. I have always had 3/4-1 ton trucks and have never tried pulling with anything less. My fear is the light weight truck being pulled around rather than the trailer. I realize I can pull "up to 6500" so says Ford but I would love to know what actually feels safe and proportionate for my truck without having to by a trailer to find out.

I agree with what Dave said. Using a proper hitch with sway contol and a good brake contoller, you should be able to tow a tt in the 4500 to 5000 UVW safely. Your payload capacity should handle the tongue weight (10-15% of loaded tt weight) of a tt that size. With a tt approx. 26' I believe your okay with your wheelbase vs tt length. Don't forget to check your GCWR.

Towing in the mountains with the 4.6 will be tough. I use to have that 4.6 screaming while towing in these rolling hills in eastern OK. I don't think you'll necessarily need a 3/4 ton, but I would advise getting a 5.4 V8 if you are to tow in the mountains. Your tow rating should go up to 8,600 lbs with a 5.4 V8 using the the 3:55 gears and I believe around 9,200 lbs with the 3:73 on a F-150, CC, Short Bed, '04 through '08. The '09 & '10 will be even more.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

08flagvlite · 03-19-2010, 07:06 AM

I pull a 30 foot V lite from Flagstaff, and I have a 380 hp. hemi 5.7 engine with a 3:54 rear, and I couldn't imagine pulling this rig - 7575 lbs.DRY weight (as shipped), loaded is probably closer to 8200 lbs, and just the pulling up and down the hills- We have a bridge here in Jax that is fairly steep over the St. Johns river, and my setup has a very hard time topping that bridge at 50 mph. BUT I do know that a rear end change would make a world of difference with my set up. Yes, I would like to do that, but for me, in Florida, I use the truck for daily driving, as well. That would be your best bet, if you want anything bigger than a 4500/5000 lb. camper. My 2 cents worth. Randy

Dave_Monica · 03-19-2010, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08flagvlite

I do know that a rear end change would make a world of difference with my set up. Yes, I would like to do that, but for me, in Florida, I use the truck for daily driving, as well.

Randy

With that rear ratio change, you'll have a little more somethin' for those 5L Mustang guys in the stoplight grand prix.

Out of curosity, did your 1500 come with a tow package that included 3.55 ratio with the 17" wheels? My 2005 came with 3.92 with the 20" wheels as part of the tow package.

Dave

08flagvlite · 03-20-2010, 12:14 AM

Hi Dave, and yes, my 06 had P 265/70/17 Good YearWrangler tires and a 3:54 rear gear. I really feel a need for a 3:73, or a 3:92 would be best, however it would hurt my not towing gas mileage. I get 21 highway with no load, and about 7 pulling at 65. I did just switch to the same size Michelin LTX/AP radials in the rear, and it made a big difference in stability. Try the stake pocket "shake test"....grab hold of the rear stake pocket hole and push/pull the truck bed from side to side, and watch what the tire sidewalls do! Then, try this on a buddy's truck that has LT tires. I think you'll be convinced with the difference. A final note though, they are almost twice the cost; but do lat about 20k longer before wearing out. Randy

Realer · 03-20-2010, 08:12 AM

I think you should stay away from the biggest trailer you can pull to the safest. Stay under 80% of the tow rating. You should go back to 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. Good Luck.

slpybeartx · 03-20-2010, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Realer

I think you should stay away from the biggest trailer you can pull to the safest. Stay under 80% of the tow rating. You should go back to 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. Good Luck.

I would not shy away from towning with a half ton pickup. Too many people get hung up on the belief that you must have a 3/4 ton or bigger with a big gasser or diesel.

We pull our TT loaded out about 6200lb with our family in the TV. Our tow rating is 7800lb. Keeps us close to that 80% rating and it pulls just fine. We took it from the DFW area to Arkansas last summer... pulled great.

I highly recomend considering a rear end change up one "size". You will give up the mileage, but will like the added off the line power.

Or, you could just buy a Chevy!

Realer · 03-21-2010, 09:53 AM

I agree slpybear, there is nothing wrong with towing with a 1/2 ton. I just see too many people and salesmen max out the TV and it's dangerous and people will either complain the TT doesn't pull well or their TV isn't enough. Common sense seems to be thrown out the window these days.

08flagvlite · 03-21-2010, 05:27 PM

Realer, I would love to have a 2500 diesel to pull my rig with, but my truck is an 06, and my camper is an 08, so I had to rely on what the dealership said, and the V-LITE is designed to be pulled with half ton trucks, as well as other campers with "Lite" designations. I realized after purchasing my rig that mods were needed to pull it. and the 5.7 hemi is very capable of pulling, but the 3:54 rear is really not a good gear for towing anything very heavy. So, in summary, 1/2 tons with the right combination set up should be fine for this job, in my opinion. Randy

grhodes50 · 03-21-2010, 07:05 PM

The main thing is, we get to the campground and back home safely. If your 1/2 ton truck can do that, then that's great.

Too many of us, myself included, look at what our tow rating is and then go buy a tt as close to that as possible. We tend to overlook all the other factors, GCWR, RAWR, Payload Capacity, loaded weights instead of dry weight, wheel base vs tt length etc...

I ended up within all my ratings, but just barely. Under normal conditions everything was fine but being so close to my max's in conditions such as rain and high winds (25-30 mpg) I was having a tough time. Power wise I was fine('07 F-150 5.4 V8 - '09 Rockwood tt), but the weight issues caused stability problems.

I had three choices, keep my set up, cross my fingers and stay close to home, upgrade my current tv or buy a another tv. I found what I think is a very good deal on an F-250 so I took it. I probably could have bought a HD 1/2 ton and been alright but couldn't find one within my budget.

I had read about going by 80% of you tv tow rating for your loaded tt and I was trying to keep within that. I managed to do that and all the other numbers fell well within their range.

You can do it with a 1/2 ton, just be sure and keep within all the numbers. Also remember if your close to your max on everything you'll probably be alright until it comes to mountains, rain, high winds, semi's passing. Good wd hitches with sway control will help prevent problems but they don't fix problems.

Filthy Beast · 03-22-2010, 06:38 AM

I have to agree with Realer, I towed very close to my old trucks rating and while it did well in flat areas when we moved West and now have to pull in the mountains it was struggling.

MtnGuy · 03-22-2010, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firstTT

Would it be unreasonable to pull a 4500-5000lb (UVW) trailer up to a mountain campground with my setup? Does length play a part? do the aerodynamic shapes really help that much with wind resistance? I have a ton of questions for you guys..........buckle your seatbelts.

Slow and easy does it, and it should be OK, but be aware of your transmission temperature. I have the 5.4L with 3.73 gears, and on 1 windy mountain pass here in the Blue Ridge, my tranny temp. has hit 200 degrees. My truck has to use 2nd gear with the torque coverter unlocked to tow my 5500 lb. trailer up this pass. The slow speed does allow much air to flow over the transmission cooler when it needs it most. 200 degrees isn't that bad over a short term, but I like to keep the temperature in the 160 to 170 degree range. Make sure your truck has the auxiliary transmission cooler that comes with a factory tow package.

acadianbob · 03-22-2010, 10:50 AM

ditto what MtnGuy said. Same experience here. Hit 205 on a 10 mile 10% grade out west. Otherwise about 160 trans temp. This is my "broken record" statement but I still say that the percent of maximum you tow is also a function of how far you tow. 2 to 3 hours is one thing. 2 to 3 long days is another. We tow 3,000+ miles at a time and are at about 60% of max. I wouldn't want to tow any more than that at these distances; including the Rockies. The truck handles it fine but "towing satisfaction" becomes a bigger issue.

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