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Old 10-04-2010, 09:22 AM   #11
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Most are in the vicinity of 90 to 95 ft/lbs. You might want to check with your dealer, Sierra, or even your axle manufacturer to be sure.
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:06 AM   #12
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From Al-KO's manual.

Wheel nut torque requirements vary depending on the size and
manufacturer of the wheel. Always use the wheel manufacturer’s
recommendation but do not exceed 120 ft/lbs on 1/2" studs. Unless
otherwise specified by the wheel manufacturer, use a final torque of 85-95 ft/lbs. Never exceed wheel manufacturer’s recommendations
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:33 PM   #13
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Thank you all for your words of wisdom. My husband will be busy this week getting his tool box ready for our final trip of the season. I now understand better why the tires look the way they do. We will also be sure to check the tire pressure and lug nuts before each trip. There is so much to learn...but worth it when you are enjoying a weekend away.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:04 PM   #14
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Lightbulb

The following chart is for alloy rims:

Wheel Tech - Wheel Lug Torquing
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:10 PM   #15
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Excellent post. Should be a "sticky"
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:07 AM   #16
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Also you need to verify that the tool you get will work with your rims. I grabbed the old trusty 4-way and it would not fit the rim hole. Had to grab a thin wall socket and breaker bar to store in the trailer. Not going to bother carry a torque wrench in the trailer.
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCRC View Post
Also you need to verify that the tool you get will work with your rims. I grabbed the old trusty 4-way and it would not fit the rim hole. Had to grab a thin wall socket and breaker bar to store in the trailer. Not going to bother carry a torque wrench in the trailer.
Excellent point and precisely the reason for the telescoping lug wrench I mentioned in my first post. The sockets that come with it are thin wall and there are 4 sizes to fit about any lug used on light trucks, cars, etc.
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Old 10-05-2010, 01:42 PM   #18
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I have always carried the torque wrench in the camper. The Equalizer hitch sway bar bolts needed to be torqued on every hook up on the TT and then when I got the 5'er I found I used it all the time as a long handled ratchet.
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Old 10-05-2010, 05:52 PM   #19
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1 last thing, have your tires on the trailer balanced including the spare, this cuts down on vibration and tire wear and tear. You will notice some difference when towing.
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Old 10-05-2010, 07:31 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCRC View Post
Also you need to verify that the tool you get will work with your rims. I grabbed the old trusty 4-way and it would not fit the rim hole. Had to grab a thin wall socket and breaker bar to store in the trailer. Not going to bother carry a torque wrench in the trailer.
Make sure u can actually take the wheel off. i would torque mine and thought all was well. the first time i had a flat in the middle of nowhere (actually, i ran abt 50 + miles with a flat until there wasn't anything left but the beed and the cord) i couldn't get them off. i learned to hate those decrotive stainless nut covers. if u can't fit the wrench all the way down and is isn't exactly the right size, the stainless covers move but not the nut. i would also recomend a breaker bar. if u have what looks like a long chrome nut (maybe 2 or so inches long), ur going to find the actual nut is a standard size with a nice decrotive cover over it.
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