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Old 12-12-2015, 07:25 AM   #1
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 909
Winterizing a residential refrigerator

Stuck in the northland for a few weeks and forced to winterize my Georgetown. I am pretty good at this stuff and have read almost everything I can find on the forum and otherplaces about the icemaker. I am somewhat perplexed. OK, I need to get all of the water out of the reefer and cycle the icemaker. RV antifreeze will taint the polyethylene tubing in the frig. I will use compressed air to force out all of the water in the reefer, including forcing the icemaker to cycle to clear the water in the solenoid valve that feeds the icemaker. But....

I can't figure out why I should disconnect the 1/4" poly line to do this when I am going to put 30# of compressed air in the entire RV to blow out all of the other lines. My plan is to use a blow out fitting to drain all of the water from all of the fixtures AND THEN get the water out of the cold water tap on the reefer. Then, when that is done, I will open the icemaker and force it to cycle enough to get the remaining water out of it as well.

Might put RV antifreeze in the unit to all of the faucets and shower just to be sure and perhaps plan on turning off the 1/4 valve that feeds the frig at that point to avoid putting any in the reefer.

Comments? Thoughts?



2015 335DS
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Old 12-20-2015, 08:37 AM   #2
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Salisbury, MD
Posts: 16
I too am new at winterizing the residential fridge. But, when I picked my new 2016 C.Creek, the whole unit was winterized, including the fridge.

Sue, Dennis and Lola
2016 Cedar Creek 38CK
2016 RAM 3500
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:08 AM   #3
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well, I blew out all the lines with compressed air, including the water dispenser on the fridge. I then turned off the compressor but left it connected and ran the fridge for another 24 hours. The air tank was empty as the ice maker had cycled enough times to blow out the water in the dispenser.

Should be fine.

2015 335DS
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refrigerator, winter, winterize

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