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View Poll Results: Which method do you utilize to winterize your RV.
RV Antifreeze only 35 33.98%
Blow out lines 17 16.50%
Blow out lines and RV antifreeze 50 48.54%
None/Head south for the winter 1 0.97%
Voters: 103. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 10-29-2014, 11:21 AM   #21
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Ok I need some opinions? I own a 2013 FRF Vlite 30wfkss Diamond. Heated tanks and elbows, sealed underbelly and my water lines are run through a channel in the floor which is R12 rating. Only thing that is under and out in open is the low drains. If I am using the Rv and it is heated with cabinet doors open to keep lines in the bathroom and kitchen heated how cold do you think I could go? Also With a on demand water heater if it is not drained and in use the water temp should keep it from freezing? I am talking about maybe high teens low 20s nothing colder than that. We will be staying here at Crazy Horse campground near Springfield IL until Dec 5th and then travel south to Texas. I think most of this next month will be above freezing during the day and may dip into the 20s at night. With all that info, what do you all think? Thanks....



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Old 10-29-2014, 11:36 AM   #22
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Your setup sounds similar to our as far as winter prep goes. We recently got back from our elk hunting in the Wyoming mountains where the temps frequently dropped below 20 degrees. Before we headed out, I dumped antifreeze down all the drains and into the tanks to make certain the drain valves didn't freeze. We also left the 12V tank heater on (it kicks on when the tanks reach 47 degrees and off at 60 degrees according to the owners manual) and kept the camper above 60 degrees with any cupboards concealing water lines open, as well as the bathroom door. I'm under the impression that our furnace also blows into the underbelly, but I haven't confirmed that personally. Either way, I took expanding foam and filled in any cracks/holes I could find just in case. We were not at a campsite, so I ran the generator for a few hours each morning and evening to charge the batteries or use the microwave. Nothing ever froze on the trip and we only used a full 4.5 gallon LP tank after six days, with the fridge switching between 120 and LP the entire time. (Of course I brought four full tanks just in case. That was overkill. Now I know...)

The only thing I would've done differently is isolated and removed the outside shower hose, just for an additional precaution.
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Old 10-29-2014, 11:47 AM   #23
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I removed shower hose and put a insulation in there. I would think there would be no need for antifreeze in tanks with heated tanks at that temp.


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Old 10-29-2014, 11:48 AM   #24
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I have heated elbows also on mine and wrapped my valves in taped insulation...


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Old 10-29-2014, 11:49 AM   #25
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winterizing method poll

On my trailer all of the dump valves are exposed to the elements, so I didn't want to risk freezing them closed. The antifreeze worked.
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Old 10-29-2014, 11:51 AM   #26
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I understand. Better safe than sorry for sure. Just wondering with out doing that if a guy could get by as long as it did not get below low 20s? But that being said its good to be careful...thanks for the reply.


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Old 10-29-2014, 11:53 AM   #27
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I figured a jug of the stuff is only a few bucks, so it would be much less expensive than frozen/broken stuff. Good luck on your trip! Sounds like you have a pretty decent winter setup.
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Old 10-29-2014, 11:59 AM   #28
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Re-read your post.

We do not have an on-demand heater. Regular water heater for ours so I'm not sure how you will be affected there. Also the freshwater tank was filled before we left, we only put antifreeze in the gray and black tanks. Never had an issue with the freshwater tank, but we have those 12V tank warmers that were left on.
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Old 10-29-2014, 12:00 PM   #29
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Thanks, ya so far had it for over a year and all has been good. Very satisfied. I know that there are campers that are insulated much better than mine, but for the most part Forest River makes a pretty good product. They say these are 3 season campers because not many on the market could take hard sub zero temps with water in lines without some modifications and precautions taken. Even 4 season campers still have to be winterized at some point depending on use. To me I am not worried about heating the inside as much as keeping damage to the hidden water lines and tanks from happening. I can always get enough heat and make some adjustments to the interior to keep warm.


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Old 10-29-2014, 12:04 PM   #30
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My wife and I are going to be in about 20 degree weather here at night and height to upper 40s in the day soon and still need to use the water and bathroom if we can. But we will winterize and use the facilities here if we have to. Just thinking that I should be ok with those temps, for now...


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Old 10-29-2014, 12:40 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordsuperdutyE350 View Post
Ok I need some opinions? I own a 2013 FRF Vlite 30wfkss Diamond. Heated tanks and elbows, sealed underbelly and my water lines are run through a channel in the floor which is R12 rating. Only thing that is under and out in open is the low drains. If I am using the Rv and it is heated with cabinet doors open to keep lines in the bathroom and kitchen heated how cold do you think I could go? Also With a on demand water heater if it is not drained and in use the water temp should keep it from freezing? I am talking about maybe high teens low 20s nothing colder than that. We will be staying here at Crazy Horse campground near Springfield IL until Dec 5th and then travel south to Texas. I think most of this next month will be above freezing during the day and may dip into the 20s at night. With all that info, what do you all think? Thanks....



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You should be fine, but your weak point is the low point drains they will freeze and expand at the 90 degree, it happened to me. Either wrap the low point exposed drains or better yet. I installed to shut off valves in the basement so water will not enter them until I open the valves in the basement. You have a duct 2" down there, or on some units which is really stupid is they put wholes in your duct work to create heat. The only thing that I do now is disconnect my water hose and run off my fresh water tank with the pump at night. But that low point drain system is the weak point in your whole theory.....
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:51 AM   #32
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I agree, after much research that is it. I was just trying to figure out what to do here to bypass this area so it can't get water there? Tuff place to get at. For now just blow my lines out and uncap these.


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