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Old 05-23-2016, 08:12 AM   #11
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Ben
As was mentioned, your system may be different than my 2010. My cables are on my wardrobe slide. For mine, I remove the trim to expose the mechanism on the in side. There is a bolt that can be loosened to reduce cable tension. My cable kit came with a sleeve to attach old cable to new and then feed the new cable through the serpentine of pulleys to the mechanism. Once pulled through, I secured the outside end to the bracket. An eye bolt replaces the manufactured cable bolt and the cable is threaded and crimped.
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Old 05-23-2016, 08:50 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by tnbendr View Post
Anyone have experience replacing one of the cables on their slides. Mine is one of the hydraulic operated slides that have the cable and pull system to keep it symmetric and one of the cables is unraveling from the swage at the outer end, outside when the slide is extended. I have called FR already but can't get an appointment until June 9th to have someone even look at it. I am very capable, but not familiar with the routing and adjustment.
I believe you got your 38A about the same time we got ours.In Jan.while in Florida the rear upper cable broke(snapped)on ours and while trying to get home the lower cable broke.Took all the trim off rear of slide to try to find out the run of the cables and how difficult it would be to replace.After locating the replacement kit,tried to put together the tools required,(there is a crimping tool that is needed that is very costly for the one time you are going to use it).Called FR and had them replace and adjust the cables with the help of the slide system manufacture people.The adjustments are very specific to keep the slide square so it does not bindup traveling in or out.
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:23 AM   #13
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Did you watch the video? Cable routing and replacement techniques are the same for both types of slides. One picture is worth a thousand words.
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:31 AM   #14
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I got a large cable crimper at Home Depot. I bought it for $28 (cause I like tools) but you could see this crimper had been bought and returned many times
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:53 AM   #15
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You will also need a tool to cut off the excess. That tool is available at HD also. Instead of buying a crimping tool, I bought a couple of small wire cable clamps. Worked just fine.

http://www.amazon.com/3230BC-Zinc-Pl...4011574&sr=1-6
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Old 05-24-2016, 07:49 AM   #16
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If you check in your area you can buy aircraft wing cable much stronger same size.
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Old 05-24-2016, 06:21 PM   #17
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Thanks everyone. FR is sending me repair kits, so I'll have a spare for future need. I went to Home Depot and the crimping tool was for 3/16 dia not 5/32. I will wait till I get the parts and see if it fits the jaw. I figured out how to remove the wood trim inside so I'm good to go there.

Phil, I was looking at using the same clamps you mentioned, but I was thinking there might be a clearance problem with those?

Selkirk, it is not the cable itself failing, it is coming out of the swage, due to the alignment of the bracket and then it puts an adverse load at the atach point.
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:41 AM   #18
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Check Tractor Supply for a sledging tool.
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulie Boy View Post
Hey Ben, didn't you have problems with your slides right after you took possession? There may be more going on with those slides.


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Yes Paulie, they had to install plates on the bottom of the slide at every roller location because they were sinking into the material. This raised the slide about 3/16 and if the brackets were already not aligned well to begin with, they could have been off even more. I spoke to engineer at Norco Industries and she said that is the biggest reason the cables fail. Then we had the time the pulley bracket ripped out of the wall and who knows how that may have changed the alignment when that got fixed. The cables have a 2000lb load rating and with the 38A hybrid design where the hydraulic acuator moves the slide and not the cables, I have to determine there is misalignment.
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