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Old 07-05-2014, 10:18 PM   #51
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Hi guys,
I am using a pressure regulator and have about 45 lbs pressure showing at the regulator. Seems to be fairly consistent pressure. The water temp fluctuates from hot to cool and the dial in the bathroom medicine chest is set just into the 3rd segment. I make sure that I purge any air that may get into the system when changing campgrounds. I have always been getting hot water, but it just isn't a consistent temperature.
Marty, as for your step problem, I seem to recall that another poster had the same issue and it turned out to be a bad circuit board in the step mechanism. If I get a chance I will do a search on the problem. As for the black tank flush issue, it may be that the back flow valve just inside where the hose connects to the tank flush fitting is either jammed or bad. Not sure what would be involved in changing that.
Will check the flapper valve on the water heater to make sure that it is clear.
Hope everyone had a great 4th.
Marty, hope your trip continues to go well with no further issues.
Regards to all.
Tom
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:20 PM   #52
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Hi guys,
I am using a pressure regulator and have about 45 lbs pressure showing at the regulator. Seems to be fairly consistent pressure. The water temp fluctuates from hot to cool and the dial in the bathroom medicine chest is set just into the 3rd segment. I make sure that I purge any air that may get into the system when changing campgrounds. I have always been getting hot water, but it just isn't a consistent temperature.
Marty, as for your step problem, I seem to recall that another poster had the same issue and it turned out to be a bad circuit board in the step mechanism. If I get a chance I will do a search on the problem. As for the black tank flush issue, it may be that the back flow valve just inside where the hose connects to the tank flush fitting is either jammed or bad. Not sure what would be involved in changing that.
Will check the flapper valve on the water heater to make sure that it is clear.
Hope everyone had a great 4th.
Marty, hope your trip continues to go well with no further issues.
Regards to all.
Tom
We have the Gerard tankless heater in our new Legacy. We had the same issue and the burner was stuck on high output regardless of how we adjusted thermostat or flow.

It would get scalding hot the over temp at like 130 degrees shut off get cool water and start cycle again.

What we found was a wire from thermostat to computer board on back of heater had a screw through it and was grounded out.

Dealer repaired wire and now works like a champ.

I think when you test the voltage behind heater door outside low burner output is 9v and high should read 3 volts. Mine was stuck on 3 volts with large flame all the time.

Might want to take a look at this.
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Old 07-06-2014, 02:24 PM   #53
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Tom
Whether you have the Gen 1 or 2 Girard Tankless, it will be very cantankerous. You need to understand how it works if you want to come close to mastering it. The basics of its operation are:

1. Turn on water, the Girard senses flow and fires the burner at the BTU setting (High/Lo for Gen 1 and variable for gen 2).

2. If the water is set very low by you, the water in the heater will reach 122 degrees very fast and shut down for a moment. You will then get very hot water at the slow flow followed by cold and then hot again - not good!

3. So it is too hot, so you set the faucet flow higher and you get continuous very hot water without cold spurts. Problem is that you can't get higher flow, which is dictated by your water source pressure.

4. To reduce the high temperature, you then need to vary the BTU setting (say to low for Gen 1 or lower temp with Gen2). This may or may not work.

5. To reduce too high temps, you might think about mixing some cold water. Girard frowns upon this, because you will lessen the flow through the heater and it will then even get hotter and shut down. Another problem is that the shower valve in the Berkshires doesn't mix hot and cold water very good.

6. Basically, the Girard water heater has absolutely no output temperature control. With a hot water faucet open, all the Girard knows is fire the burner at your setting and shut down if the temperature reaches 122 degrees. This leaves you to try to control temperature with water flow setting which isn't always easy and is compounded by having different pressures at different parks.

The Girard Tankless would be an excellent heater if it had a variable flow gas valve with a controller that compared your desired temperature (set on your wall) with the actual output temperature. The controller would constantly adjust the burner's gas flow to achieve the desired temperature. Water flow would be of hardly an issue. Unfortunately, the Girard does not work that way, but I believe the Precision Temp RV-500 does.

Are there any Berkshire owners with an after-market Precision Temp installed, Like to hear from you.

Hank
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Old 07-06-2014, 03:25 PM   #54
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Hank,
So basically I should set the controls to heat the water to a temperature so that it can be used 'straight' without mixing in cold water to make it comfortable. Is that correct?
Tom
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Old 07-06-2014, 04:03 PM   #55
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Not hank but that's what I do Tom.


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Old 07-06-2014, 04:08 PM   #56
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Thanks Phil.
Can't wait to see you and Dianna in Goshen.
Tom
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Old 07-06-2014, 04:11 PM   #57
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We are also. Should be a great time.


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Old 07-06-2014, 07:51 PM   #58
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Hank,
So basically I should set the controls to heat the water to a temperature so that it can be used 'straight' without mixing in cold water to make it comfortable. Is that correct?
Tom
Tom, this aligns with the instructions I've read. Comfortable with hot faucet wide open. If you need it a little warmer turn down the hot faucet slightly, but you've got to wait for the water to travel from the heater to feel the change, where we're used to the temp changing faster. I'm really looking forward to teaching my wife to do this in just over a week and getting her "review" of the process.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:12 PM   #59
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One other thing I forgot to mention in my previous post regarding the Girard.

Per the Girard rep, you set the thermostat based on the temp of the ambient water. So if your using your tank and it is 90 degrees out so should the water and thermo shouldn't be set past the middle, approx 15-18 degrees warmer. When set to max it will warm 40-45 over ambient until it over temps and the lowest setting is only 10 degrees over ambient temp.

This is what they told me when we were trouble shooting mine, it was stuck on high output regardless of water we did at thermostat or flow via knobs.
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:39 AM   #60
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Some great tips here!
We left Grand Canyon today, now in Tombstone AZ. When I set up I had air in my lines for the first time. What's the best way to get it out? Also I noticed at GC that even when I was on city water it drained my fresh water tank. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Stephen


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