Quote:
Originally Posted by Southern Roamer
...NEVER put a separate pressure regulator at the park faucet, that definitely creates wild temp fluctuation and isn't necessary due to the rigs own internal regulator. ...
...Also, if you are using a Y valve at the faucet to facilitate a second hose (for car washing maybe) remove it before showering as it will also reduce water flow.
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The wild temp fluctuation is due to the the safety cutoff switch (burner shutdown), due in to an outlet temperature above 125ºF, usually caused by a lower flow than 1 gpm, which is in turn caused by either an lower supply pressure than Girard recommended 45 psi, or excessive flow restrictions added to the system. Also, the burner will switch from high to low when the inlet water temp is over 70ºF, and back to high when the inlet temp is under 65ºF. (Ref:
http://greenrvproducts.com/wp-conten...4-09-20102.pdf)
A Y-valve (splitter at the faucet will not cause nearly as much pressure drop as a long hose length (50', when only 25' is needed), or ells and valves that are added to the system.
As far as I know, there is no internal pressure regulator, and if you don't have one at the supply faucet (hopefully adjustable), you could encounter a higher than normal pressure that could damage the water system components. FR has tested the Berkshire water system to 95 psi with no failures (probably thanks to the PEX tubing), but doesn't advertise that, since there are third party system components (like the Girard WH) with lower operating pressure limits (the warranties of which could be violated). And yes, a supply pressure regulator will cost you some dynamic pressure loss, but is advisable. Be sure to install it upstream of any external water filter you might have (which doesn't cost you as much of a dynamic head loss as you might think).
I suggest that you go to Girard's website and read about the principal of operation. The bottom line is: you need more than 45 psi to make it work right (43 psi, in my experience); you need to set the burner control to "Low" in the summer (when inlet water temperatures are high, due to the hose lying in the sun - water comes out of the ground at the same temperature year-round; and you can set the burner temperature to "Auto" when the ambient temps are cold (fall mornings,
etc.).
Finally, since the pressure regulator gauge reads the regulator outlet static pressure (
i.e. no-flow condition), you need to check the supply pressure with a separate gauge. I invariably have problems below 43 psi, and no problems higher than 50 psi static supply pressure. I have my supply regulator set at 52 psi static pressure.