Atwood on demand water heater

15berkxl · 05-05-2015, 10:36 AM

Anyone out there who purchased a 2015 or 2016 unit that came with an Atwood on demand water heater?
I would be interested to hear how it is performing for you.

hn6ranch · 05-05-2015, 10:11 PM

I have a 2014 Berkshire pusher with this unit. What do you want to know?

15berkxl · 05-06-2015, 06:31 AM

Any problems with water temp swings water going cold.

hn6ranch · 05-06-2015, 02:13 PM

Yes, seems to be that if you let the water run constant it holds temp, but if like us when you close the shower head for a minute or so to conserve water it cuts off or superheats and then it has to run a few minutes again to get corrected. I personally wish I still had the regular old hot water heater tank system. I believe I used less propane that way since once it was hot it stayed that way and we cut it off after showers and dishes washed every evening anyhow. Also if you are in a colder climate or where the water is really cold coming in you have to change heat setting.

FoxxLandArk · 05-07-2015, 12:23 PM

We have a 2014 unit that regularly trips it's breaker requiring a visit outside to reset the breaker at the heater. We have a call into Atwood and after 36 hours, no call back. Growing very frustrated.

Beluga · 05-07-2015, 12:49 PM

I will have to check what the make is on our 2014 Surveyor's hot water tank but I don't like the instant hot water. You have to waiste so much going down the drain to get warm and it fills your tanks or you have to have a basin catching the water. Out of our three trailers and one truck camper we liked the system on our previous '08 Jayco the best. Dual propane and electric hot water, one tank, two heaters. Would love to look at getting that done on our current trailer as an add on. Has anyone done something like this before?

15berkxl · 05-07-2015, 03:30 PM

I don't think the tankless wastes more water getting water to faucet just seems that way. The old style still had to get the water in the tank to the faucet so you are wasting water with it too. With my 2015 Berkshire XL all water goes to a manifold system in the middle of the coach and them out to the faucet. My bathroom sink is next to the tankless and my kitchen faucet gets hot water before the bathroom because the kitchen is next to the manifold now that's wasting water.

Hallen01 · 05-07-2015, 03:55 PM

I just changed out a Gen-1 Girard that was intermittent, then finally inop for a Girard GSWH-1M dial type. After temperature measurements at a specific flow and supply pressure, the 1M seems to work as advertised. I put the dial in the rear bath, next to the WH compartment, within arms reach from the shower.

Happy so far, let you know after my first shower. Girard is coming out with an all-new type of WH in 2016.

dndnva · 05-07-2015, 04:28 PM

My 2016 Legacy came with the Atwood Tankless. On our shakedown trip I ended up tweaking the main temp valve outside on the unit (turned it up hotter), replaced my water regulator with a 50-55 PSI "Hi-flow" AND replaced the factory showerhead with an Oxygenics Body Spa. Before all these modifications it performed horribly but last weekend we used it all weekend without any major problems. It does tend to cool off some after a few minutes and you have to feather the cold in and out to keep it exactly the temp you want.

dndnva · 05-07-2015, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 15berkxl

Any problems with water temp swings water going cold.

See my last post but to answer this question more specifically: Before getting all the pressure issues resolved it went freezing cold. After the mods described, it hasn't done that again. Like I described, it comes in scorching hot pretty fast, I feather in the cold and then I have to edge the cold back a little to keep it as hot as I like. Not a big deal really. I am happy with it if it continues to perform like this. Another trick is to make sure you open ALL water valves when you first set up and get all the air out of your lines. Having constant pressure is the key.
I will let you know how it does on the pump, haven't tested that yet...I will be at a festival Memorial Day weekend and will not have city water, fresh tank and pump only! YIKES!

15berkxl · 05-07-2015, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hallen01

I just changed out a Gen-1 Girard that was intermittent, then finally inop for a Girard GSWH-1M dial type. After temperature measurements at a specific flow and supply pressure, the 1M seems to work as advertised. I put the dial in the rear bath, next to the WH compartment, within arms reach from the shower.

Happy so far, let you know after my first shower. Girard is coming out with an all-new type of WH in 2016.

Mine came with a Girard GSWH-1M dial type and had nothing but problems. Dealer changed it out for the Atwood since FR has gone to that manufacturer. Interesting it sounds like similar issues with both.

captnrick3 · 05-12-2015, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dndnva

See my last post but to answer this question more specifically: Before getting all the pressure issues resolved it went freezing cold. After the mods described, it hasn't done that again. Like I described, it comes in scorching hot pretty fast, I feather in the cold and then I have to edge the cold back a little to keep it as hot as I like. Not a big deal really. I am happy with it if it continues to perform like this. Another trick is to make sure you open ALL water valves when you first set up and get all the air out of your lines. Having constant pressure is the key.
I will let you know how it does on the pump, haven't tested that yet...I will be at a festival Memorial Day weekend and will not have city water, fresh tank and pump only! YIKES!

Sounds like you got through the WH learning curve pretty quickly. We are pleased with our Girard as well so far.

gordonsick · 05-18-2015, 10:26 PM

Our 34QS came with the Girard GSWH-1M. I've played with the dial in the bathroom from medium to hot and it does change the flame height. But, under no circumstances can I get more than tepid water. I shower with the temperature lever set to the hottest possible. I wash dished with the hottest position for the faucet, but I never burn myself.

Is this a FR setting problem with the Girard, or is this just how the Girards work?

I'll take it in for warranty, but a little background beforehand will help me negotiate something.

tmmar · 05-19-2015, 08:40 AM

Gordon,
Is the dial turned all the way to the hot setting? If so, then the water should be very hot! If it isn't, I would first call Girard and see what they have to say.
Tom

gordonsick · 05-19-2015, 11:06 AM

Tom,
The dial is all the way to the right and the water is warm and not hot. I'll have the dealer look at it under warranty.

In another forum thread, somebody posted a Girard Tech Bulletin on the Girard GSWH-1M water heaters, talking about two limit switches on the heater. One cuts out at 55C (131 F) and the other is a backup that cuts out at 75C (167 F). The first is called an ECO setting, and I suspect that it is why I'm only getting warm water (I'd guess that I'm getting the 55C water). The document also talks about a reset button and the possibility of defective switches. Hopefully, it is possible to drop out the 55C limit switch, without voiding a warranty or whatever.

I'll let you know the results of my trip to get warranty work.

Ford Idaho · 05-19-2015, 11:17 AM

I would not bother with the dealer as it will take two or three times longer than need be and the warranty is from Girard to start with.

Call Girard direct and speak with customer service they just may work harder than the dealer to make you happy.

captnrick3 · 05-19-2015, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gordonsick

Tom,
The dial is all the way to the right and the water is warm and not hot. I'll have the dealer look at it under warranty.

In another forum thread, somebody posted a Girard Tech Bulletin on the Girard GSWH-1M water heaters, talking about two limit switches on the heater. One cuts out at 55C (131 F) and the other is a backup that cuts out at 75C (167 F). The first is called an ECO setting, and I suspect that it is why I'm only getting warm water (I'd guess that I'm getting the 55C water). The document also talks about a reset button and the possibility of defective switches. Hopefully, it is possible to drop out the 55C limit switch, without voiding a warranty or whatever.

I'll let you know the results of my trip to get warranty work.

It will be interesting to read the results of your warrantee work. We went through a significant learning curve thinking we had heater problems. We too have had several rigs over the last 30 years all with regular 10 gallon heaters, none with any issues. I checked the flame difference on our Girard from high to low dial thinking we had a problem. We have decided that as long as pressure is not an issue the major controlling factors are incoming water flow rate and incoming water temp. Having figured that out, we now have nice long constant temp. showers.

On a one week camping trip in the mountains last week, we encountered night time temps. near freezing. When showering in the morning the heater struggled to make hot water until the very cold water from the hose gave way to warmer water from the city source and then all was fine.

Given a choice on a new rig I would opt. for a 10 gallon gas/elec. Suburban. However, we have what we have and are learning to deal with it. I think it would be fun to sit down with a member of the current crop of FR engineers and ask "whatsup" with these new fangled heaters?

gordonsick · 05-19-2015, 09:42 PM

I'm not getting in for the warranty work until late June, given conflicts in my schedule and the dealer service schedule. I'll let you all know what happens then.

And Ford Idaho's suggestion of going straight to Girard is a good fallback.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

captnrick3 · 05-19-2015, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gordonsick

I'm not getting in for the warranty work until late June, given conflicts in my schedule and the dealer service schedule. I'll let you all know what happens then.

And Ford Idaho's suggestion of going straight to Girard is a good fallback.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

The Girard factory is only about 40 miles from where we live (near San Diego, CA) I have found. Had no reason to contact them yet so hopefully that goes well.

You may also like: