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03-05-2015, 06:10 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Home is where I park it
Posts: 1,503
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After almost two years (and 4-5 fixit attempts), that damn slide is STILL causing me trouble.
I bored out the casting and "thru-bolted" it so I could apply more torque without stripping out the housing.
I need to probably put blue locktite on the nuts, or maybe use elastic stop-nuts instead.
Randy, seems to think the the bolts/nuts are coming lose with just a few uses; he mentioned something about star washers, which mine does not have.
Best luck I've had so far was the hydraulic jack (as mentioned earlier) but after a couple thousand miles it worked itself loose.
Boowho??
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03-05-2015, 07:21 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 139
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It seems to be a design flaw. FR needs to do a reengineer on this!
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03-06-2015, 09:47 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 765
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I was thinking about this bed motor slipping problem. On my coach I built a support base of 2x4 and a v block to hold the motor that has worked great. The one problem is I had to fuss a lot to get the height correct and I have no height adjustment.
My thoughts using common parts from the hardware store a support bracket could be fashioned that would allow for height adjustment by turning the main support shaft. I guessed at the diameter of the motor as my coach is in storage. Hopefully you all will get the idea.
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03-06-2015, 10:31 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Home is where I park it
Posts: 1,503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver
I was thinking about this bed motor slipping problem. On my coach I built a support base of 2x4 and a v block to hold the motor that has worked great. The one problem is I had to fuss a lot to get the height correct and I have no height adjustment.
My thoughts using common parts from the hardware store a support bracket could be fashioned that would allow for height adjustment by turning the main support shaft. I guessed at the diameter of the motor as my coach is in storage. Hopefully you all will get the idea.
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WOW!!! I've been thinking of something like that for a long time. Just couldn't go from the "I wonder if..." stage to an actual design with REAL part numbers.
How 'bout replacing the threaded rod with a monster turnbuckle to provide for adjustment??
This takes my hydraulic jack idea to the next level!
Boowho??
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03-06-2015, 10:32 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island (Nassau County), NY
Posts: 4,352
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Looks like it might be a great solution for an ongoing issue. Thanks for sharing.
__________________
Tom and Margaret
2014 Berkshire 390bh-60
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03-06-2015, 03:09 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boowho
WOW!!! I've been thinking of something like that for a long time. Just couldn't go from the "I wonder if..." stage to an actual design with REAL part numbers.
How 'bout replacing the threaded rod with a monster turnbuckle to provide for adjustment??
This takes my hydraulic jack idea to the next level!
Boowho??
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Yes I got my original block Idea from you.
I looked for a turnbuckle as you suggested but would need one with 3/8 threads and 4 inches long. All the turnbuckles I found in the box stores were 8 to 10 inches long. I wanted to keep it to box store parts. So the Idea I presented is my second choice.
Bottom line need a saddle to hold the motor and something to hold up the saddle.
Further thoughts may want to place a stop nut under the hanger so the thread rod cannot hit the motor.
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03-07-2015, 02:45 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Home is where I park it
Posts: 1,503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver
Yes I got my original block Idea from you.
I looked for a turnbuckle as you suggested but would need one with 3/8 threads and 4 inches long. All the turnbuckles I found in the box stores were 8 to 10 inches long. I wanted to keep it to box store parts. So the Idea I presented is my second choice.
Bottom line need a saddle to hold the motor and something to hold up the saddle.
Further thoughts may want to place a stop nut under the hanger so the thread rod cannot hit the motor.
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FWIW, the motor measures 2.5 inches in diameter.
Boowho??
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03-07-2015, 08:50 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boowho
FWIW, the motor measures 2.5 inches in diameter.
Boowho??
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Hi Boowho,
Thanks for the motor measurement. I do not have access to my coach to make the measure. New Idea for motor support. Should accommodate the larger diameter and stay with box store material. Just my idea.
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03-08-2015, 09:12 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Home is where I park it
Posts: 1,503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver
Hi Boowho,
Thanks for the motor measurement. I do not have access to my coach to make the measure. New Idea for motor support. Should accommodate the larger diameter and stay with box store material. Just my idea.
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Whole new direction...... Get some aluminum bar stock 1 inch wide and .25 thick. Cut off 2 pieces that are 2 inches long. Bore hole in each.
Then lay flat against the frame with one end contacting the bolt head coming thru from the motor.
Bore hole in the main support frame that aligns with the hole bored in the aluminum stock piece. Put bolt thru and tighten well.
Slide motor can no longer slip as the two aluminum blocks will not allow the motor mounting bolts to move downward at all. The block mounting wholes are NOT slots, but the exact same size as the bolt.
Voila????
Boowho??
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03-09-2015, 07:24 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 765
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Hi Boowho,
Another good simple idea. Bar stock would bolt against the bottom two bolts I assume? Need to be careful to drill holes below the motor gear box. Would not want to drill into gear box and have another problem.
It is a great place to work isn't.
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03-09-2015, 08:27 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island (Nassau County), NY
Posts: 4,352
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Boo,
Can you post a picture of your mod?
Thanks.
__________________
Tom and Margaret
2014 Berkshire 390bh-60
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03-09-2015, 11:17 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Home is where I park it
Posts: 1,503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver
Hi Boowho,
Another good simple idea. Bar stock would bolt against the bottom two bolts I assume? Need to be careful to drill holes below the motor gear box. Would not want to drill into gear box and have another problem.
It is a great place to work isn't.
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It sux..... I'm probably going to remove the whole dern mechanism next time I have to get under there; hopefully the damn slide won't fall out!!!
And even another change..... Instead of BUTTING the new pieces under the bolt heads, I'll bore holes such that I can fit the bar stock UNDER the existing bolt head (just like another washer) and then thru bolt the lower (new) bolt.
I sorta screwed myself (!!!); I bored out the housing so I could use bolts AND nuts on the original 4 bolts. Now the heads are turning when I try to loosen the nuts.
That's why I need to remove it ALL next time. Should I patent this so I can make s***loads of money from FR??
Boowho??
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03-09-2015, 11:19 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Home is where I park it
Posts: 1,503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmmar
Boo,
Can you post a picture of your mod?
Thanks.
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Haven't really finished the mod, Tom..... Still in the design stages.
However, I will try to put together a drawing today that will make it pretty clear. Thanks for your interest.
Boowho??
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03-09-2015, 11:49 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Home is where I park it
Posts: 1,503
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Drawing
So a CAD/CAM guy I ain't!!!
Pink is Motor
Blue is existing frame that holds the motor.
Yellow is the two pieces of aluminum bar stock.
Red is existing bolts holding the motor to the frame. Those four bolts pass thru elongated holes in the frame (blue).
Green is two new bolts; these pass thru NEW holes that are bored thru the yellow AND the blue and are NOT elongated.
Hope this is clear enough; obviously the left drawing is the end view, the right drawing is the side view.
boowho??
P.S. click on the drawing to enlarge it; looks better at full size.
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03-10-2015, 10:30 AM
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#35
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 35
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I've had mine adjusted 5 different times by 3 different dealers/service depts over the past year. I'm convinced that this is an installation & engineering problem on FR's part - something is missing to allow the teeth and the motor to correctly engage the slide out rail. (Is there a way to bookmark this forum thread to get to it later when I need it again?)
I did see a separate thread on the same topic when I first started poking around the Forest River Forums. Their fix included locktite and the addition of a lock washer to the slide motor bolt. If someone else is better than me at locating old threads it might be beneficial to link the two (if that is even possible).
__________________
Greg Spencer
2014 Berkshire 390BH-60
"Scout"
Toad: 2014 Subaru WRX
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03-10-2015, 12:57 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Home is where I park it
Posts: 1,503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gspencer4
(Is there a way to bookmark this forum thread to get to it later when I need it again?)
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Just bookmark it in your browser. Then you will always return to this thread.
Boowho??
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03-10-2015, 01:29 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 151
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Click "Thread Tools" (second link on the menu just above the first post on the page) and select "Subscribe to this Thread" option.
You will then see this thread under "Quick Links"/"Subscribed Threads" menu
__________________
Alex and Valerie
2014 Berkshire 400BH
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