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Old 11-12-2019, 11:11 AM   #1
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Bypass valves

Where is the water heater bypass on my new 40E?
Not in the compartment with the heater.
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Old 11-12-2019, 11:51 AM   #2
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If you water heater is on the rear side near the washer and dryer, the bypass valve are in the compartment just off the floor.
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Old 11-12-2019, 06:23 PM   #3
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On my coach, where the heater is on the side next to the washer/ drier as described above- there is a wooden part of the cabinetry just below the washer that sticks out a little bit. It’s held in place with latches similar to the drawers. Pull on the raised part and it’ll open to the back of the water heater and the valves. Probably a low point drain as well.
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Old 11-14-2019, 09:39 AM   #4
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Trappfarmer,
Good morning. On your Berkshire 40E the water heater bypass is located under the washer/dryer. There is a removable panel/door that conceals the water heater. For more info please contact Mike Winterrowd in warranty at MWinterrowd@forestriverinc.com thank you.
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Old 11-14-2019, 09:49 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZNEDY View Post
If you water heater is on the rear side near the washer and dryer, the bypass valve are in the compartment just off the floor.
For your edification....
CZNEDY may not be your best source of information when it comes to how to winterize your Berk. As you can see by his profile, he continually drives up and down the East coast. So, when the temperatures start to get close to where freezing might become an issue, he just drives further South (read Florida)
Im not sure he has actually found the bypass himself.
Just sayin
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Old 11-14-2019, 10:38 AM   #6
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Now that is funny,
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Old 11-15-2019, 05:34 AM   #7
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Hahahahahaha, good one Kenandterry
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Old 11-17-2019, 11:56 AM   #8
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Hahahahahaha, good one Kenandterry
You gotta know by now.......

I just calls em as I seems em, and if I dont seems em, I just makes em up. Stay warm you guys!
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Old 11-17-2019, 07:07 PM   #9
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Got it

I found the valves in the panel under the washing machine.
Thanks for the help everyone!
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Old 11-17-2019, 07:37 PM   #10
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Does anyone know where to get the manual on the keyless entry?
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Old 11-18-2019, 08:07 PM   #11
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This is the manualUM17_22271-03_2013-07-Rev_5_82920235860704.pdf
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Old 11-19-2019, 01:48 AM   #12
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Keyless

Thanks!
I got the same manual from FR yesterday.
But...
Where did the put the RF box?
And how does it lock the door?
Is there a solenoid?
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Old 11-19-2019, 07:17 PM   #13
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Passenger console . No additional solenoid, the relays are built into the controller.
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Old 11-21-2019, 08:21 AM   #14
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Keyless Clueless

Still don't see anything there.

Found a button and red light when you push it. Don't know what the button is for but nothing made a loud noise when i pushed it and lit the lite. Not likely its the SELF DESTRUCT BUTTON.
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Old 11-21-2019, 10:45 AM   #15
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Button/LED
This LED & Button serve multiple functions:
Programming KeyFobs
Smart LED to display Keyless Entry Fault codes
Smart Alarm (Aftermarket Add-On) Armed Indicator
Hope it helps,

Found in the thread from " a button and light and switch do what?
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Old 11-21-2019, 03:55 PM   #16
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Bypass valves and Low Point drains

I was surprised to note that there is a low point drain under the water heater. I had noticed the compartment below my washing machine, but neglected to note that it has a low point drain, so I've never cleared it and fortunately it has never frozen on me.

In my view, Forest River is going over the top by installing an excessive number of low point drains. We have tankless hot water heaters, so from a drainage perspective, they are no different from any other pipe in the RV and don't need a special drain or bypass.

There are two methods of winterizing our RVs. One is by blowing air through the pipes. The other is by sucking RV antifreeze into the lines from the water pump. If either of these is done properly, there is little or no need to do any further draining of the pipes. Indeed, in several places our pipes have a sag in them but no low point drain at that point, and they only way to make these pipes safe is by blowing them out or filling them with antifreeze.

By introducing all of these low point drains (which may not be noticed by the owner/technician), there is a risk of leaving water in a line that is missed because all of these drain valves are below the pipes and are not cleared by air pressure or antifreeze unless they are actually opened.

As long as the coach plumbing is designed with no downward pointing dead-end pipes, there is really no need for any low point drains. Just blow air or introduce antifreeze until it comes out of all the taps, ice maker and washing machine valves.

The only low point drain that is really needed is a drain for the fresh water tank. And, that drain is too high to clear all the water on most tanks. Fortunately, it is a broad-surface body of water and 1/2" or 1" of water will crust upwards and not damage anything when freezing. I've installed a special pickup in my fresh water tank (Installing a Water Pickup to Drain from the Bottom of a Fresh Water Tank).

Having said that, I find the low-point drains for the hot and fresh water lines in the driver-side water bay to be handy in speeding up winterization. And, one does need to drain the fresh water tank as much as possible at the passenger side water bay, so I can use my water pump to clear the last bit of water out of the tank. I do use the low point drain after the pump as a convenient way to get rid of this water, but it is not necessary if I'm pumping air or using antifreeze.

Gordon
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