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Old 01-08-2017, 10:13 PM   #1
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Bypassing slide/awning lockout.

So we all agree on the departure procedure... (for those units so wired)

Start engine, let air build, retract levelers, shut down engine, retract slides, start engine.

Somewhere before or during while the engine is shut down remember to retract the awnings. If not, shut down engine one more time and retract. (It's the one over the door that always gets me....)

Soooooo, I would like to have a red guarded switch where I can override the slide and awning lockout. Also, I would like to be able to put the slides out on arrival while the engine is still running to keep voltage at max without first having to plug in or start the APU.....

It's most likely one single wire which sends ignition power to a relay and powers it open.... Simple to do, problem is finding which one.

Anyone figured out where it is?

(I know WHY it's there, so I don't need that pointed out. As I said a red guarded switch right in front of me would do the trick.....)
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:54 AM   #2
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We do not all agree on the proceedure

Proper procedure

1) retrace awnings

2) retract slides

3) retract jacks, verify jacks came up

4) Start engine let air build up

5) hit jack retract one more time. Do not have to deploy jacks again, Verify you are aired up. Normally if a a fist will fit between tire and coach you are aired up.

Any other procedure you risk damage to the slides. To the person that started everyone on the wrong process you have done everyone a great injustice. If Forest River Diesel monitors perhaps you would chime in with the procedure.
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:42 PM   #3
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So you are saying that slides should be operated with bags deflated and levelers extended? I would risk damaging the slides otherwise? You mean if I drive the coach and then set the parking brake, shut down the engine and operate the slides still "on the bags" that would be bad?

This is counter intuitive. On top of that I have personally observed that the slides operate a lot less easily after the levelers have twisted the coach around.

Alas, let us not spar with opinions but turn to that all knowing arbiter of truth, to some the source of last resort, aye, the INSTRUCTIONS.

See, what I DO know is that in the Equalizer Systems, A DAYS Company, Auto-Level Operation and Warrantee Guide effective 2012, revised April 2013 it NOWHERE refers to depressing the ALL RETRACT button a second time to get the air to the bags....

Au contraire. In fact on page 6 under "Helpful Hints" it states, and I quote:

"If your coach is equipped with air suspension it is recommended that the coach be started and chassis air allowed to build before pressing ALL RETRACT. This will ensure adequate air supply to the chassis air valves"

It also says in the same offering of "Helpful Hints", and I quote again:

"Operate jacks first, then slide outs."

So I hereby posit amice that YOU are the one with the wrong process and the subsequent "great injustice" although I find the latter term a bit Shakespearian for the subject matter at hand.

Now, this is all tangential to the question I had...... How do I override the inibition of the slides/awnings with the engine running? Anyone? Buehler?
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:27 AM   #4
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One more thing to add to the procedure if you are going to put on tire covers; those that go around the tire:

It is a lot easier to put the tire covers on with the air bags still inflated and the slides in.
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscarvan View Post
So you are saying that slides should be operated with bags deflated and levelers extended? I would risk damaging the slides otherwise? You mean if I drive the coach and then set the parking brake, shut down the engine and operate the slides still "on the bags" that would be bad?

This is counter intuitive. On top of that I have personally observed that the slides operate a lot less easily after the levelers have twisted the coach around.

Alas, let us not spar with opinions but turn to that all knowing arbiter of truth, to some the source of last resort, aye, the INSTRUCTIONS.

See, what I DO know is that in the Equalizer Systems, A DAYS Company, Auto-Level Operation and Warrantee Guide effective 2012, revised April 2013 it NOWHERE refers to depressing the ALL RETRACT button a second time to get the air to the bags....

Au contraire. In fact on page 6 under "Helpful Hints" it states, and I quote:

"If your coach is equipped with air suspension it is recommended that the coach be started and chassis air allowed to build before pressing ALL RETRACT. This will ensure adequate air supply to the chassis air valves"

It also says in the same offering of "Helpful Hints", and I quote again:

"Operate jacks first, then slide outs."

So I hereby posit amice that YOU are the one with the wrong process and the subsequent "great injustice" although I find the latter term a bit Shakespearian for the subject matter at hand.

Now, this is all tangential to the question I had...... How do I override the inibition of the slides/awnings with the engine running? Anyone? Buehler?
On every trailer we have ever owned with jacks, we have always lowered the jacks first, and then extended the slides. When breaking camp, we do the opposite. The jacks are the last thing we take in. As for the argument that you will somehow twist the frame if you extend the jacks before the slides are out, this makes little sense. With all of the weight over the chassis with the slides in, there should be little frame impact when moving the jacks. In addition, if this is all it takes to torque the frame, then I for one think I have the wrong coach. Granted, I am new to the MH world and the additional problem of air bags to consider. I do agree that one should dump the air before any of this process starts. Assuming you agree, this is yet another reason to put the jacks down first and take them up last. I also operate the jacks while the engine is running. I want to ensure I have full air available before I start this process. As for the awning/ slide lockout, I have never seen a need for this as our camp checklist always pulls the awning in, then pulls the slides in, then starts the engine, then retracts the jacks. Your mileage may vary...
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Old 01-10-2017, 09:19 AM   #6
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You can HEAR the house twist when you auto level. And no, this does not surprise me. To gain absolute rigidity would require a structure well in excess of what we could power down the road. And, on a 20 foot slide a half inch is a lot. Go sit in the back of an airplane and watch the fuselage twist, or watch the wingtips for that matter. 13 foot travel on the tips of a 747. I know, not the same thing, but I can guarantee you that these Mohos are not rigid.

As for the rest of your reasoning, I once again refer to the instructions.
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Old 01-10-2017, 09:52 AM   #7
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You can HEAR the house twist when you auto level. And no, this does not surprise me. To gain absolute rigidity would require a structure well in excess of what we could power down the road. And, on a 20 foot slide a half inch is a lot. Go sit in the back of an airplane and watch the fuselage twist, or watch the wingtips for that matter. 13 foot travel on the tips of a 747. I know, not the same thing, but I can guarantee you that these Mohos are not rigid.

As for the rest of your reasoning, I once again refer to the instructions.
Would love to have a Freightliner rep weigh in on your assertion of "twist" in the frame. I think you're on the wrong track with that thinking, but I will leave it to the experts to convince you.
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:00 PM   #8
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I'm not so sure when we all agreed upon that departure procedure.

But I believe pulling a fuse will disable that protection. I found it while trying to to use the front television while driving. Afraid I can't recall which fuse it was at this time.
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:02 PM   #9
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If the frame and coach twist up to 1/2 inch as you claim how do the floor tile stay down without cracking? Inquiring minds want to know.
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:48 PM   #10
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See top of page 7.
http://equalizersystems.com/wp-conte...Georgetown.pdf
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