Can Magnum remote display watts / volts load

[planopat]

My '17.5 38A is plugged into 30 Amp because that's what I have available for storage. 30 Amp limits what I can run and I'm wondering if the Magnum ME-RC has the capability of displaying the current load.

[formerFR]

no, it's not designed to... though, yes, it would be nice if it did.

if you are concerned about overloading/tripping breakers, the learning curve can be sharp, but time and experience lend a helping hand. Usually, you minimize tripped breakers by being aware of what outlets reside on what circuit breakers: the labels don't always tell the whole story. You may have a 15a breaker with 6 different outlets in line, and they may all be for the bedroom and hallway, or they could be for one 'side' of the coach, in general. Sometimes I wish the factories could somehow label each outlet to which breaker it is wired to, giving the owner a quick heads-up before the coffee maker, microwave, and water heater all go on at the same time.

for simple storage, it's doubtful you'll need to worry. 30amps is actually quite sufficient since you're not running dual AC units at the same time, etc.

one thing to note: use your SHORE button, or it may read 'Shore Max' to limit the battery CHARGER from using too much of the available amps from your Shore power. You can move the setting to 5a or 10a, as a trickle charge, leaving the balance of the amps for your other needs while in storage.

[Kenny kustom]

Not the way the factory installs it.
If it where “ whole house” it could.

[planopat]

Good info. I'll check out the Shore. Storage is a bit of a misnomer in this case. We're having an unusual cold snap for North Texas with temps in the low 20's tonight. The rig is not winterized and the question became use propane or augment with a couple of electric heaters and I believe 2 1500 watt heaters would be too much with only 30 amp, hence the question. Day time temps will be in the mid 40's+ so I only have to cover the night. I'm going to stick with the furnace for temp & circulation and maybe put one heater in the back bath. Thanks.

[dave-g]

So a 30 amp rv outlet is 2-30 amp 110 volt circuits. Most rv's do not have 220 volts outlets.

volts (110) x amps (30) = watts 3,300. now you should only load each leg 80% or 2640 watts.

So if you put one heater on each leg you should be ok, but it would take some time to figure out what outlets are on each breaker.

In the panel every other breaker is the same leg- 1-3-5 one leg, 2-4-6 other leg.

I think I just found myself a project for Saturday- labeling all outlets.

[po 185]

i think that a 30 amp rv plug is-- one hot, one neutral, and one ground.

[formerFR]

yes, it’s really just a regular 120v outlet on a 30 breaker, with a special 3 prong style

only the RV style 50a DOUBLE POLE breaker is a true 240v split to two 50a hot lines, and a special 4-prong outlet, equaling 100amps total to your coach...

[Photo Lab]

Yes, the only standard wiring scheme with two 120 volt legs would normally be the 50 amp (4 prong) shore cord. Of course, you could install an outlet for it with wiring and a breaker suitable for lower amperage. As for running two 1500 watt heaters, you will be fine with a 120 volt 30 amp circuit supplying the RV. Just make sure you plug the heaters into outlets fed by two different breakers in the RV. 2x 1500 watts=3000 watts. Divided by the voltage (typically 120-130) gives you a total of 25 amps at 120 volts. Not really a problem.

[ckabrahamson]

Just to weigh in here...

30A RV service is a single phase of 120V. When you step up to 50A, it is 2 phases of 120V with 50A available on each phase (for 100A total capacity).

When you use a dogbone to convert from 50A plug to a 30A plug, the wiring in the adapter connects the two phases together so everything in the coach has available power. But remember that you only have less than 1/3 the power available than you would with a 50A hookup.

I have what appears to be the same Magnum remote panel as you do in my coach (2015 Charleston). It will display the power you're connected to, and will allow you to limit the load for the service available so you don't blow the circuit breaker. It will tell you how much current you're drawing, but I don't remember if it displays watts (but just multiply voltage by current and you have watts). Just press the big selector wheel and scroll through the various screens. It has a lot of information.

I've winterized my coach, but I run a heater in it while it's being stored. I have a oil-filled radiator electric heater. I put a small fan blowing through the radiator, to help circulate the air. I have the power for the fan and the heater running to a temperature controller so I don't run the heat unnecessarily. I found the oil-filled heater to be much better at heating the coach than an electric coil-based heater.

[hordok]

I like the oil filled heaters because they’re less of a fire hazard, or so I’ve been led to believe.

I’m lucky because our storage is heated so I don’t even have to winterize.

[dave-g]

Originally Posted by ckabrahamson

Just to weigh in here...

30A RV service is a single phase of 120V. When you step up to 50A, it is 2 phases of 120V with 50A available on each phase (for 100A total capacity).

When you use a dogbone to convert from 50A plug to a 30A plug, the wiring in the adapter connects the two phases together so everything in the coach has available power. But remember that you only have less than 1/3 the power available than you would with a 50A hookup.

I have what appears to be the same Magnum remote panel as you do in my coach (2015 Charleston). It will display the power you're connected to, and will allow you to limit the load for the service available so you don't blow the circuit breaker. It will tell you how much current you're drawing, but I don't remember if it displays watts (but just multiply voltage by current and you have watts). Just press the big selector wheel and scroll through the various screens. It has a lot of information.

I've winterized my coach, but I run a heater in it while it's being stored. I have a oil-filled radiator electric heater. I put a small fan blowing through the radiator, to help circulate the air. I have the power for the fan and the heater running to a temperature controller so I don't run the heat unnecessarily. I found the oil-filled heater to be much better at heating the coach than an electric coil-based heater.

you are correct on the plug wiring- sorry for the miss information I gave

[formerFR]

more than likely, like me, you have the ME-RC Magnum remote:

per the manual...

METER: 01 INV/CHG Meter – This menu item displays the DC voltage
and current while either inverting or charging.

DC: V (Volts) & A (Amps): First value displays the voltage from the
batteries connected to the inverter. This reading’s accuracy is ±1.5%
with a 0.1 VDC resolution. Second value displays (while inverting) a
negative number to show the battery current used by the inverter. If
charging, the DC: A (Amps) reading displays a positive number to show
the amount of current delivered to the batteries. The accuracy of this
display below 1 amp AC (~10 amps DC @ 12VDC) is not detected. When
the current into or out of the batteries is greater than 1 amp AC, the
display accuracy is ±20%.

VAC Out: Display provides the AC voltage measurement at the inverter’s
output terminals. If inverting, this measures the inverter’s output
voltage. When in Standby mode, this measures the AC voltage that is
passing through the inverter from the source (e.g., grid or generator).

Hz Out: Displays (while inverting) the output frequency of the inverter.
When in Standby mode, this meter displays the frequency of the
incoming AC source (i.e., grid or generator) that is passing through the
inverter to the inverter’s output terminals. Frequency in Hertz (Hz).

Load Amps: Displays the AC amps as measured on the inverter’s AC
output terminals. The reading is positive (+) if power is being pulled
from the inverter to run an AC load—either using the batteries in
Inverter mode, or from the AC input source in Standby mode. The
reading is negative (–) to indicate power is being returned to the inverter
through the AC output terminals—possible in an AC coupled installation.



....cool stuff

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by formerFR

. Sometimes I wish the factories could somehow label each outlet to which breaker it is wired to, giving the owner a quick heads-up before the coffee maker, microwave, and water heater all go on at the same time.

If the factory was to do it it would add $1,000 to the purchase price.

If you take some time and check outlets, matching them to the controlling circuit breaker, the only cost will be a little time and whatever an inexpensive label maker sets you back.

Use a similar labeling system as that used in commercial buildings.

Start with the number of the breaker and then add a "dash" followed by breaker size. Put the label on the outlet cover (top or bottom).

This will let you know how many things you have plugged into the circuit controlled by each breaker. Usually the microwave and A/C are on separate breakers and when on limited shore power these breakers can easily be shut off to prevent overload. Coffee makers and Toaster Ovens are huge power hogs. Need to be careful that both don't run off the same circuit at the same time as a general rule.

[planopat]

Thanks to all for the info. We've survived the cold snap and Saturday we'll be pushing 70. I'm going to find the dozens of wall plug night lights DW has stashed in drawers around the house for years and plug them in all the RV outlets and start throwing breakers & mapping & labeling.