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Old 05-17-2016, 06:29 PM   #1
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Compartment door latch replacement.

We have a 2008 Berkshire 390QS-50 and one of the catches on the basement compartment doors has broken and I need to replace it. However with the curve in the body of the motorhome is makes it impossible to remove the catch that is at the bottom of the door. Have any of you motorhome owners had the same issue and how did you replace yours. Any help is appreciated. I have spent many hours already to get the old one out and ended up using an angle grinder and cutting it in half to remove it . Now I have the issue of fitting in the new one.
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:39 PM   #2
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I just had one of my doors replaced and the dealer gave me the old one with the lock and latched still in place. I decided to remove the lock and latches. The only way I was able to get the latches out was to pry the curved piece out to allow the latch to come out. I don't think there is an easy way to replace without bending the curve out and then rebend the curve back to its original shape.


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Old 05-17-2016, 07:52 PM   #3
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Hate to do that to the body of the motorhome
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:04 PM   #4
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Had the techs at Goshen replace two on ours and he had to bend up the curved bottom edge. He used a wide 4" C clamp and bent it up in order to get it go in. Don't think there is any other way that I've heard of.
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:35 AM   #5
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Did they damage the body of the motorhome? Can you explain how the clamp was used?
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:27 AM   #6
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He used a sheet metal clamp something like below and yes there was a small bend left in the curved bottom, but not bad. He just used the clamp and bent out the curved bottom just enough to slide the new latch in. Very poor design for sure

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Old 05-18-2016, 08:57 AM   #7
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There was another thread regarding this and it addressed the bending of the curved portion.
This winter I had the latch for the water compartment on my 2008 360QS break. The replacement I bought was close enough in size and the screw holes lined up, all I did was trim the length as it had two locations for the connection rod. Getting out the old one was done with the help of a couple of friends, we used some short pieces of 2x4's to gently pry out the curve but did not distort it. Took a few minutes and five or six hands but it came out pretty easy. I did modify the cutout slightly by opening up the notched area as the replacement one was about 1/32nd larger. Reinstalled it the using the same procedure and it does work just fine. I also replaced the upper latch on the passenger side pass through compartment using the same size replacement latch I used for the water compartment. I do not have the P/N and each time I purchased them ($8 or $9) I brought the old one and matched it up. Also, I noticed the plastic piece that always broke was of a different color and looks like it might be nylon or another type of material but not the brown plastic on the original.

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Old 05-18-2016, 09:17 AM   #8
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Our replacements were nylon latches, not plastic like orginal ones. Also we are very careful not to let the doors slam down anymore.
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:59 AM   #9
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I also replaced the water bay door latch this spring and it seemed to come out with a little persuasion. This time I am replacing the compartment door for the inverter. This door is much smaller in width and there is less bend in the middle because of the smaller door. I cant seem to get the new one (actually I took an original off another door where the catch was at the top for easy removal) to fit in the opening. At least I know this one is original equipment and will buy a new one and replace it in the door where the catch is at the top. This way any alteration will be much easier to access. I just cant believe the poor design of these catch locations.
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:12 PM   #10
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I have replaced a latch without bending the door. I bent the latch pull rod to remove and did the same with the new one.


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Old 05-20-2016, 03:19 PM   #11
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edgewant,
I'm impressed, what year and what door, top or bottom?
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:42 PM   #12
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2013. Wet bay.


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Old 09-24-2016, 11:16 AM   #13
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An update on the hatch latch. I Had another one break and this time replaced it with one that was made for Winnebago, the flange is longer and I had to drill two new holes to match the old latch. However the physical sizes and connecting rod more in line with my original. I did modify the mounting hole by opening up the clearances and all worked fine. As usual an extra pair of hands to spring the curved portion of the door saved me from distorting the piece. DOWN SIDE: The Winnebago product cost almost three times the price of the first ones I used ($20 Vs, $8 or $9) and the results plus effort are the same.
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Old 09-24-2016, 05:52 PM   #14
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This is info from Paul. He sent it to me and asked that I post it for you. Glad to do so. Sure miss his input here.
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Old 09-25-2016, 11:21 AM   #15
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Phil57,
Thanks for the site info. Interesting and informative.
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