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Old 12-20-2015, 01:09 PM   #61
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You can spend mucho bucks in a solar system as I did, but it isn't necessary. I just got started and my governor didn't kick in. I SHOULD have stopped at 6 x 100 panels. Renogy MPPT solar controller, MT-5 control head and a 2,500 watt inverter, but I just got carried away. I'm going to remove the Outback 60 amp controller, 2 panels and keep the 5,000 watt inverter in place. Got a $1,000 tied up in the inverter so it stays. I can use what I take back off the RV and add it to my home system.
Sometimes, actually more often, the K.I.S.S. system is the best route.
The reason for the auto transfer switch was I had to go out in the rain at a CG to unhook and later reconnect the shore power line when we lost power in a bad lightning storm. The only way we knew when the shore power was back on was the street lights came back on several hours later while we were on inverter. Had I had the auto T switch, it would have kicked on and let me stay dry both times.
Since I am the only one that has a clue what is installed and how to operate it, it's probably best to have as much as possible operate automatically. Still have to placard the order of which turns on and which turns off FIRST and LAST next to the controller to bats and panels to controller or someone will blow out the controller by not turning off the panels FIRST. It's rare that I ever turn off the solar system as I really don't need to. It's good to go 24/7/365 regardless what else is connected. Totally independent of the rest of the TT's electrical system.
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Old 12-20-2015, 01:20 PM   #62
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Have you seen the new magnum controller?
Plugs into their inverter, and is controlled by it.
100A. But damn!! $$$$$


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Yes, I saw the Magnum control head!!! Like you said, BIG BUCKS$$$$$$ Kind of like to keep the title to my truck, so I'm not about to spend those dollars. Talk about over kill! I would think that would be more useful in a home grid system than a smaller RV application. IMHO. To each his own.
I spent over $300 on 0/4 welding cable just to connect the inverter to bats. About $150 in large ANL fuses and holders.
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Old 12-20-2015, 01:42 PM   #63
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.

I spent over $300 on 0/4 welding cable just to connect the inverter to bats. About $150 in large ANL fuses and holders.

How far away is your inverter from your batts?!!!

Mine will be less than 5'


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Old 12-20-2015, 01:43 PM   #64
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The operation manual for the Outback is a nightmare. I think it was 127 pages if I recall. It's a dog to program too, plus you really NEED the remote head to control and monitor the unit. Another $250! The Renogy MPPT 40 AMP controller is sooo easy to use and you can have several different panel arrangement including series/parallel connection. Renogy customer service is great. Outback, not so much IME.

How often do you need to adjust your controller?




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Old 12-20-2015, 01:58 PM   #65
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How far away is your inverter from your batts?!!!

Mine will be less than 5'


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Two bats about 6' away and three bats about 5' away. The lug installation wasn't cheep. Wanted it done right. Figured it would only help to have the largest and best cable I could get AND they needed to be both red and black accordingly so no confusion. The two OEM bats are the farthest away from the inverter and outside the unit under the hood. The other three are inside under the dinette and NOT easily gotten to. I will remove one of the bats inside just to drop some weight [73 lbs]. That will leave me with about 550 amp hrs.
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Old 12-20-2015, 01:59 PM   #66
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How often do you need to adjust your controller?




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Old 12-20-2015, 03:38 PM   #67
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I don't...ever!

Then why do you need the remote head for the outback?


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Old 12-20-2015, 03:48 PM   #68
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Yes, I saw the Magnum control head!!! Like you said, BIG BUCKS$$$$$$ Kind of like to keep the title to my truck, so I'm not about to spend those dollars. Talk about over kill! I would think that would be more useful in a home grid system than a smaller RV application. .

Although.. If someone already had the magnum inverter and controller.

It would be the same price as the outback and remote.

Pay for convince. They would, work very well together.


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Old 12-21-2015, 03:04 PM   #69
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OldTool2

I think the need for a transfer switch depends on who is in the unit. Obviously you have a thorough understanding of electricity. Same here. However, when anyone else is involved things tend to change. On my coach I have installed an additional 1000 watt sine inverter and it powers all of the plugs on one side of the coach for convenience, including it turns out, all of my TVs. Since those plugs are also fed from the distribution panel there needs to be a way to switch them between Genny/Shore power and the inverter. A nice, cheap ($30) solution is a neat transfer switch from Xantrex. This way the plugs are always powered, regardless of genny, shore or inverter. Any other solution would back feed the inverter with 120V...and power half of the panel through the breaker when the inverter was running.

It all depends on who is doing it. My wife always complains that people who can fix anything have a lot of broken things in their homes. Actually they are not broken but only some of us can still get them to work!!!!
Ok, under your circumstances I can under stand your reason for having one. My 5er has one receptacles in the living area on one side. I have a cord and power strip from it that feeds the things I charge at the kitchen table. When I need the inverter I switch that cord from that receptacle to another and am good to go. Just got to turn the inverter on by remote.

With your changes it make sense.

Jim
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Old 12-22-2015, 12:33 AM   #70
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Then why do you need the remote head for the outback?


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I like to know what is going on without having to lay on my side everytime I walk by. It gives me a warm and fussy feeling to know. If it shuts down, I want to know it ASAP. It's set and forget, but forget only goes so far. And most of all, it's what I want.
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