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Old 06-24-2014, 08:49 AM   #1
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Garage height problem

Hi,

We have a new to us 2011 390bh. I need to "sneak" it into our garage. Is there a way to drain all of the air bags, and move the coach and its 40' into the garage? I only need about 2.5-3" lower to clear the door.

Advice is appreciated.

Semper Fi,
MC
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:01 AM   #2
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MC,
As far as I know, there is no way to manually drain the airbags. The air bags drain when you put the levelers down and fill when you retract the levelers with the engine running. Don't know what you could do to get those few extra inches you need.
Tom
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:26 AM   #3
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I was thinking maybe a dump valve install on the air system? It just needs to move straight in the out?
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:10 AM   #4
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Dump valve is the way to go. A lot of other systems already have it included. You simply hold the button down and it won't allow the coach to air up. I'm afraid if you tried to move your rv by putting jacks down then up when the air is filling, you would quickly reach the height of the garage.
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:39 AM   #5
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Suggestion: when I replaced my Lexington with a Berkshire, I was confronted with a 2.5" height difference in rigs.... Realizing that I couldn't dump the air bags, I came up with another solution - I raised all the rafters 4".... Really a relative simple procedure but did take a weekend and two sons helping... Thank goodness for power tools - nail gun, reciprocating saw, etc.. Now my coach fits with room to spare.....


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Old 06-24-2014, 11:42 AM   #6
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Garahe

Unfortunately raising our garage door is not an option.

The heights on the web differ, does anyone know exactly what their 390 is both inflated and deflated on the bags? In regards to height.

MC
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:48 AM   #7
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Let some air out of the tires?
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:28 PM   #8
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OK, don't laugh, lower the floor. Think about it.
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:58 PM   #9
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OK, don't laugh, lower the floor. Think about it.
I was gonna suggest the same thing, only just dig out the tire tracks necessary to get in, leave the rest intact.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:02 PM   #10
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I was gonna suggest the same thing, only just dig out the tire tracks necessary to get in, leave the rest intact.
Exactly! Trying to raise the door frame can be nearly impossible in some structures. A little jackhammer and new concrete is common place.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:34 PM   #11
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Nearly all Class 8 Semi-tractors with air-ride suspension have a dump valve to use when backing under trailers. My Volvo will drop about 4 or 5 inches. If it can be plumbed into them you should be able to do it on a motor home.
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:32 PM   #12
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Just wondering out loud - I installed an air quick connect fitting to the manifold in the generator compartment - as described in the Freightliner manual. I added a bat handle ON/OFF valve before the air quick connect just as a precaution. Are the air brakes and suspension bags all "plumbed" commonly? I guess what I'm asking is if I opened that valve without the quick connect, wouldn't that dump all the air? Quickly??
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:52 PM   #13
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Just wondering out loud - I installed an air quick connect fitting to the manifold in the generator compartment - as described in the Freightliner manual. I added a bat handle ON/OFF valve before the air quick connect just as a precaution. Are the air brakes and suspension bags all "plumbed" commonly? I guess what I'm asking is if I opened that valve without the quick connect, wouldn't that dump all the air? Quickly??
You need more facts than you've gotten so far. You'll drop like a stone, open the roof like a Sardine can and end up out back of the garage when the brakes fail on your journey! Splain that to your insurance guy!
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:01 PM   #14
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Don't forget---if you have air brakes and dump all/most of the air, you MAY NOT have much braking power when you try to stop that beast!
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:11 PM   #15
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I guess I'm confused by these comments. I added the air quick connect where Forest River includes them on newer models - in the same manifold Freightliner says to add "air accessories" to. I use it to air tires while on the road just like other coaches. My point was could the OP use this setup to clear his garage door?
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:19 PM   #16
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Don't forget---if you have air brakes and dump all/most of the air, you MAY NOT have much braking power when you try to stop that beast!
Aw I was just kidding, if he dumped his air a 1000 HP diesel could move that coach, its needs air to release the brakes......
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:54 PM   #17
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Back to "dumping the air" on semi tractors the suspension and brakes are on separate "circuits" Maybe this is why CDL tests have a separate part for air brakes for the CDL test. I have passed that test and have operated and maintained "BIG" trucks for over 30 years. Maybe motor homes and semi's are plumbed different.
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Old 06-24-2014, 08:01 PM   #18
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Possible Idea

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcerretti View Post
Hi,

We have a new to us 2011 390bh. I need to "sneak" it into our garage. Is there a way to drain all of the air bags, and move the coach and its 40' into the garage? I only need about 2.5-3" lower to clear the door.

Advice is appreciated.

Semper Fi,
MC
Equalizer triggers the air dump when the jacks are deployed. It is probably an electrical input to the Freightliner dump valve. If you get the equalizer installation manual from their web site you might be able to wire in a manual dump switch in parallel to the equalizer switch dump line. Keep the dump command active to Freightliner air bags as you back into garage. Just a thought.
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Old 06-24-2014, 08:32 PM   #19
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I would think that messing with the air is not a good way to overcome your problem. If you dump to much air the emergency brake will engage. At some point as you are trying to dump air to keep from knocking the A/C unit off the roof you will hit the garage or something else. Adding the front air chuck is fine and you did it much better than FR did. I would talk to a contractor and get the cost for lowering the floor or raising the door. Anything else and you are asking for an expensive repair. Just my opinion and worth every bit of what you paid.


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Old 06-24-2014, 08:36 PM   #20
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I totally agree with Phil.... I just wouldn't mess with my coach... Is find a good local contractor and explain the situation to him and see what he can come up with..... Then - all you will need to do is just back your rig in ....
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