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Old 05-06-2015, 03:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by TURBS View Post
Oh and whys that?

08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "4 nights"
All I can tell you is when I had to be towed I told the tow operator to tie air in at the generator port. He did and the breaks did not air up. Freightliner divides their air tanks into 5 separate tanks with a number of one way valves. The generator port has a one way valve between it and the rear brake tank so airing there will not release the rear brakes. I published a schematic of the air-brake system you can look up if desired.

If the tow operator knows how to tow a motorhome he will know how to air it up. Otherwise I would call for another tow. I have heard stories where they do not remove the drive shaft and the owner is left without a transmission. Or they hook up to the front wrong and cause damage.

I have only had to be towed once and fortunately Got a company that had done a lot of motorhomes and knew what they were doing right down to removing the mudflap so it would not drag and tying the air lines up under the coach so they did not scuff the paint. Little things I would not have thought of.

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Old 05-06-2015, 05:49 PM   #22
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It's the red one in Turb's picture.

2013 Berkshire 390BH
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Old 05-06-2015, 06:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Campin Cajun View Post
It's the red one in Turb's picture.
Correct Industrial/Milton
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:48 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by bstnet View Post
We have a 2015 38Rb. Does anyone know what size air coupler that is in the front generator compartment. I'm going to get a 50' hose this weekend.

Thanks in advance!
If you have an air chuck that you have used, simply plug it into the RV's receptacle. If it works, take it to the store (like Harbor Freight or other) and match it up. The ones designated to air, all should work. Those for gas or propane will not.

Be careful taking the chuck out of the motorhome; it can shoot out when released. Get a good grip on it and protect yourself.
Gale & Hank- 2012 Berkshire 390BH
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Old 05-09-2015, 07:42 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by tmmar View Post
Yes, it is a quick connect for an air line. You can use it to fill your tires or anything that needs air. You just need to have the engine running in order to keep the pressure in the tanks up. There is also a quick connect for propane in the passenger side compartment that is just ahead of the large door that is ahead of the rear tires. It is up and to the left.
For the guys that had the same question as I did...Found this.... good info!

LP quick connect/ Air chuck
2014 Berkshire 400BH-60
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Old 05-09-2015, 11:15 PM   #26
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air quick connect

Remove air quick connect,
put a valve in and put air quick connect on it and your air hose won't kiss you in the mouth
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Old 05-10-2015, 02:24 AM   #27
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Maybe someone could educate me. In scuba diving we constantly use compressed air and nitrogen mixes. If it's "compatible" enough to breath at pressure I can't begin to imagine how using compressed air to top of your tires could possibly be incompatible with nitrogen filled tires.

I'm not very educated about it in tire use, but I have extensive training in compressed gases. From what I know, about the only advantage I could see in using nitrogen in a tire would be that nearly all moisture content is removed... whereas with compressed air, there generally is not much done in the way of filtering/processing of the O2. That has a tendency to introduce quite a bit of moisture into a tire. If you've ever watched while a tire is removed from a rim, it's not uncommon to find accumulated water inside of a tire... or for that matter... anyone using an air compressor I'm sure you have seen how much moisture accumulates rather quickly under pressure.

The molecule size thing... I don't know if I buy it as being a significant advantage. I know O2 has one more proton and is around 292 picometers in size vs N2 at 300 picometers. Hardly significant.

I guess I could see less moisture sloshing around in your tire and on your rims as a benefit, but I've personally never put on new tires due to internal oxidation (only worn treads). I would "think" that external oxidation rates would be exponentially higher than inside anyway.

Is it worth the expense at $5 a tire for a top off? Maybe I'm missing something.
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Old 05-10-2015, 08:13 AM   #28
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Yarome - You said "Is it worth $5 per tire to top of with nitrogen?" I would think not, if the tires were originally filled with air. Topping off, only adds maybe !% or 2%. For those that filled their tires from empty with nitrogen, then it would make sense to them.
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Old 05-10-2015, 08:22 AM   #29
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Totally not worth the time and money to use nitrogen!! IMO.

2013 Berkshire 390RB-60
toad - 2002 Jeep Wrangler Sport
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Old 05-10-2015, 09:00 AM   #30
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I have been using Nitrogen in my car tires since 2001. I have yet to pay for a top off on the pressure. I usually tip the mechanic $5.00 for his time. Now on the MH that may be a different story but to tell you this, my tire temperature is consistently 5 to 8 degrees cooler after putting the Nitrogen in the MH tires.

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