Gerard water heater in 2015 Berkshire XL

[CAT-RN]

I agree with the last several post. I get a hot shower. Plenty of hot water and after a couple parts & good instructions from Girard mine is doing ok.

Just adjust the water in real (very) small increments . It's all about the temp and volume of the incoming water.

Russell

[I-RV]

Yes, many have gotten to learn, live and even like the Girard. The Gen II Girard is more useable then the Gen I which many Berk forum members have is a beast.

From the grapevine (maybe Phil mentioned that), Girard will be selling to the public, their Gen III, which has true automatic temperature control. Some RV manufacturers are probably putting it in now, but not for the Berkshire, since FR went with Atwood.

The Gen I can be replaced by the Gen II for I believe $350 (unit trade cost). I believe that the Gen III will fit in the Gen I or Gen II spot, but the door needs to be changed, meaning a pint match problem.

[conceptumator]

You are correct, I-RV, I found gave the Gen II. I did read about the Gen III and it sounds good but I'm sure that like anything else, it will require a learning curve to get used to it. The theory is sound, just not what everyone has been doing for their entire life. Last time mine was in, the dealer had already stated if they couldn't get it fixed then they were going to replace it with the Atwood. As with the other units, including the standard tank types, the door was configured slightly different and/or was a different size, but the cavity for all of them supposedly had the same requirements. That makes sense as you want to always make your new product easy to retrofit in previous models. The paint matching is an issue, not so much on newer units but matching an older RV that's a little sun faded or whatever would be a challenge. From what I've seen, the biggest difference is getting used to showering with only the hot water on. Set the thermostat based on incoming water temp (you just gave to play with it) to get the coolest hot water you want, then simply reduce the flow at the faucet to make the water hotter. Sounds simple, but it's completely contradictory to what we've always done. I'm just stubborn and decided it wasn't going to beat me!

[lefaivre]

We have a 2012 390Bh60 and had little to no hot water. Over the years we attempted every potential fix that was discussed on this forum.

Finally the solution
1 the installation of a high flow Watt pressure regulator. Although this did not give me hot water it did provide me with a far better flow rate.

2 the final solution was to change the unit from a low/auto to a low/high configuration.
This was simply done by disconnecting wires from a temp switch and connecting them together.

If anyone is interested I have instructions and photos previously posted

[gasman94]

Originally Posted by lefaivre

We have a 2012 390Bh60 and had little to no hot water. Over the years we attempted every potential fix that was discussed on this forum.

Finally the solution
1 the installation of a high flow Watt pressure regulator. Although this did not give me hot water it did provide me with a far better flow rate.

2 the final solution was to change the unit from a low/auto to a low/high configuration.
This was simply done by disconnecting wires from a temp switch and connecting them together.

If anyone is interested I have instructions and photos previously posted

Lefaivre, I would be interested to see. I also am looking at changing my fixture as mentioned on a previous post. That also makes sense to me and kills two birds with one stone. Thanks.

Rich

[zeelarry]

Well, the Atwood On Demand isn't working in our 2016 Berkshire XL 40RB today. It was working fine yesterday, nothing has changed, same site, same water hook-up, WE JUST DO NO HAVE ANY HOT WATER!!!!! In fact, the water gets colder when we run the HOT WATER.

Tried to check the main fuse, but there is NO fuse indicated for the hot water system on the fuse boxes. I am totally confused & frustrated with the situation. There is an in-line, 3 amp fuse in the the heater's compartment, which is good, but cannot locate the main fuse.

Any help?????

[Phil57]

Does the red light come on? There is a red reset button in side the WH. It may need to be reset.

[Phil57]

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...2-07-09-13.pdf

[conceptumator]

Dumb question probably, but have you checked your gas?

[Phil57]

Originally Posted by conceptumator

Dumb question probably, but have you checked your gas?

Not so dumb but I will never admit to it.
I had the switch shut off the first week we had it. Of coarse no one played with it.

[conceptumator]

One other thing. Check the sail switch on the exhaust port. Sometimes (at least on the Girard) that switch can get stuck and not swing right in the blower exhaust. If it doesn't sense air flow through the exhaust port, it will shut off the gas for safety.


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
2015 Legacy SR340 360RB with 2014 Wrangler Unlimited Toad
Gigi, Poppy and Sadie the Jack Russell (all 14 lbs of her)

[Phil57]

I'm fairly new in dealing with the Atwood. I haven't had time to mess with it. The sail switch on the Gerard drive me nuts. I even carried an extra one. I'm not summer how the sail switch works in the Atwood.
We really need more info to help zeelarry.

[15berkxl]

The only problem I have had other than switch turned off (like Phil mentioned) was the black tube that polks through the hole in the cover gets plugged with dirt (we believe from insects). Take tube off and clean it with tooth pick also carefully use pick to clean connection where that tube mounts to the diaphragm switch.


Wayne

[nathantoensing]

Yea happens to us randomly as well. Take off the cover outside. On the top left there's a small red button. If you press it and it 'clicks' that's the reset switch. Seems to reset on us when windy, otherwise I have no idea why it trips!


--Nathan
2016 38a

[zeelarry]

Originally Posted by nathantoensing

Yea happens to us randomly as well. Take off the cover outside. On the top left there's a small red button. If you press it and it 'clicks' that's the reset switch. Seems to reset on us when windy, otherwise I have no idea why it trips!


--Nathan
2016 38a

Well, just got off the road, went to the forum and read all the feed back. As Nathan had said, push the reset button and BINGO!!!

Actually, I went to the top left of the tank, from the outside, and pushed the only thing that was RED [where the 2 wires met]. And that was it...

Now, it doesn't look anything like a button to me. To me, it looks like the end of a wire that was clipped off. Either way, it worked.

THANKS to EVERYONE with the input. I was use to the 10 gallons gas/electric water heater. Several new items on this coach & I now know that I do have a big learning curve ahead of me. The worse thing is that I've had previous Class As, with the latest one being a Diesel Pusher, 2009 Coachmen Cross Country.

AGAIN THANKS. . . still having a problem of thinking that thing looking like a clipped wire is a button...

[Phil57]

Glad you got it working.

[tmmar]

Originally Posted by Phil57

Glad you got it working.

X2!!

[zeelarry]

Originally Posted by tmmar

X2!!

Me. . . X3

[Phil57]

Originally Posted by 15berkxl

The only problem I have had other than switch turned off (like Phil mentioned) was the black tube that polks through the hole in the cover gets plugged with dirt (we believe from insects). Take tube off and clean it with tooth pick also carefully use pick to clean connection where that tube mounts to the diaphragm switch.


Wayne

I had no HW this morning so outside I went to check on why. Thanks to Wayne I saw that the heavy rain we had filled this tube with water and didn't allow the heater to work. I took it off and blew it out. Back up and running. It's a weird design but at least an easy fix.
I do believe just about every problem and fix is available on this page. Thanks guys for all the info. I wouldn't want to try to figure this out by myself.

[sFRving]

We had the same issue; it was the sail switch. The sail switch is that small arrow shaped fin in the exhaust opening. If it is stuck the burners will not ignite. Just remove the sail switch, lube and replace it. It's a simple fix.