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Old 08-20-2013, 09:17 AM   #11
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WE have one too I agree with you i miss my regular water tank Has anyone replaced their tankless water heater?
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:47 PM   #12
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I have 2013 390RB with same problem, I heard that forest river told them if people
were having problem they would replace, That is what I'm going to get done if I can.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:12 PM   #13
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According to Girard, they manufacture their heater to be a direct replacement for tank units, don't know why the opposite wouldn't hold true, with the exception of maybe depth. I have a 10 gallon tank unit with teenage girls and using the "rinse when needed" method of showering, have never run out of hot water.
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Old 08-24-2013, 02:21 PM   #14
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I've been on trips this year where the heater has failed to even ignite, had to jump it out, but then it runs continuously. Had a mobile guy come out while in South Carolina on our 1st trip with the motor home on Easter Break. Replaced a part he had sent in from Girard. Worked fine 2nd trip Memorial Day weekend. Went to Disney in the beginning of July, worked fine until mid-week, then went out again. Had a mobile service guy come out again. He narrowed it down to the flow switch. The plunger was not activating all the time. Worked fine after he left and went on another trip in July for a week with no issues. I too want a water heater with a tank. Had 3 5th wheels prior to the motor home and never had an issue with obtaining hot water. Oh, and I was never reimbursed for having the mobile guy come out the 1st time.
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:11 AM   #15
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I have the Girard water heater and I am very disappointed with it. Mine has the two burner choices (high and low). Now they have the model GSWH-1M with a variable choice setting.. The problem with either model is that there is is no temperature regulation when it is operating, other then it shuts down when it senses output temperature over 120 degrees. Thus, the only way for us to regulate the temperature is by playing with water flow. To exacerbate the problem, RV's typically do not have great water flow and are also dependent upon their mobile location water supply.

Please note that even with the new variable temp model, you only set the burner's flame, much like you do with your barbecue. There is no output temperature regulation. It is a shame that in this great technology era, that the Girard water heater is so inept. To operate properly, the heater should monitor the out temperature in accordance to the desired temperature selected by the user and then modulate the burner's output to keep the output flow's temperature in compliance.

It appears that the Precision Temp RV-500 and RV-550 has a modulating full control burner.

Another problem that I have with my 2012 390BH Berkshire, is that when the shower's water control is fully on, I cannot move the control from side to side to mix cold water. I know that the Girard frowns on mixing cold water and suggests that you regulate temperature purely by adjusting hot water flow. I do understand the principle, but this is another irksome problem.

Besides just considering taking showers, I would like trickle hot water flow for shaving and washing dishes. RV tankless water heaters will not give you that.

Oh, how I long for my old 6 gallon tank model!
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Old 08-25-2013, 12:01 PM   #16
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I've had very good experience (no temperature cycling) with my Girard set at "Low", rather than "Auto", and my regulator on the campground faucet set at 52 psig (the Berkshire system has been tested to a static pressure of 80 psig).

Right now, I'm at a campground in upstate PA which has only 35 psig static supply pressure, and at the "Low" (one-burner) setting I'm experiencing no cycling in the early a.m. (58F ambient), and only very long-period cycling in the p.m. (80 -85F ambient). If during colder weather at the "Auto" setting I get into cycling, and the "Low" setting doesn't give me hot enough water, and/or I need to use a longer hose to reach the faucet (even colder supply temps), I'll probably do the jumper mod to make the "Auto" setting "High" only.

I'm also investigating yanking my water filter out of the coach (eliminates a big source of pressure loss), and going to an external filter, upstream of my pressure regulator at the supply faucet. In terms of removing sources of pressure drop during flow, that's a big one, I should think.

Remember that:
- the water supply temperaure (out of the ground) is nearly the same all year;
- the temperature at the manifold inlet is whatever temp the hose lying on the ground came to before flow started, but quickly comes to nearly the supply temp after flow startup;
- any added device will cause an additional pressure drop during flow (water filter, petcocks, additional connections, elbows, straight runs, etc) which means an even lower flow rate, and hence a higher outlet temp from the constant-BTU water heater, which will in turn cause burner shutdown, i.e. temperature cycling;
- since you cannot add cold water without decreasing hot water flow with the toggle-type of faucet, adding cold water will increase water heater outlet temp.
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hallen01 View Post
I've had very good experience (no temperature cycling) with my Girard set at "Low", rather than "Auto", and my regulator on the campground faucet set at 52 psig (the Berkshire system has been tested to a static pressure of 80 psig).

Right now, I'm at a campground in upstate PA which has only 35 psig static supply pressure, and at the "Low" (one-burner) setting I'm experiencing no cycling in the early a.m. (58F ambient), and only very long-period cycling in the p.m. (80 -85F ambient). If during colder weather at the "Auto" setting I get into cycling, and the "Low" setting doesn't give me hot enough water, and/or I need to use a longer hose to reach the faucet (even colder supply temps), I'll probably do the jumper mod to make the "Auto" setting "High" only.

I'm also investigating yanking my water filter out of the coach (eliminates a big source of pressure loss), and going to an external filter, upstream of my pressure regulator at the supply faucet. In terms of removing sources of pressure drop during flow, that's a big one, I should think.

Remember that:
- the water supply temperaure (out of the ground) is nearly the same all year;
- the temperature at the manifold inlet is whatever temp the hose lying on the ground came to before flow started, but quickly comes to nearly the supply temp after flow startup;
- any added device will cause an additional pressure drop during flow (water filter, petcocks, additional connections, elbows, straight runs, etc) which means an even lower flow rate, and hence a higher outlet temp from the constant-BTU water heater, which will in turn cause burner shutdown, i.e. temperature cycling;
- since you cannot add cold water without decreasing hot water flow with the toggle-type of faucet, adding cold water will increase water heater outlet temp.
Congratulations Hallen01 on your understanding how to make t.he Girard water heater work for a fixed set of conditions. Most of us do not want to be Hydrologist's and worry about flows and pressure drops, we simply would like the way heater to work. Your success and recommendations are great, however in the context of grading the Girard, I feel it is not good and is very lacking in not having a modulating gas valve that is controlled by the output temperature with respect to a set desired temperature by the user.

Your recommendations however will help many to understand the principles of how to make the Girard function and squeeze some decent operation out of it.
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:12 PM   #18
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I-RV sorry you are having so many issues. I have had my fair share of issues with the WH also but I have learned a lot about them. Getting proper water pressure is the most important. I am still running mine without the filter. Using the new shower head that mixes with air is also a must. Sorry I can't remember the brand name but Camping World has them. In my opinion it is worth the hassle. I like my showers and never running out of hot water is great. I also use less LP. Work with Randy at FR and I'm sure he can offer some suggestions.
I'm not trying to argue what system is better but I do hope you can get yours running without spending money.
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:12 PM   #19
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I worked with the heater manufacturer and Forest River. After lots of phone calls Forest River agreed to replace with conventional water heater. Thank you Forest River.
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:27 PM   #20
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Good luck with the change to a regular water heater. I would not have said this when I first bought my MH but I wouldn't trade by tankless WH for anything else.
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