Okay, I not a MH expert, but would like to respond to some of the comments based on what I do know.
From what I’ve learned from expert Mark Polk, it’s been an ongoing problem with some MHs that start out with low CCC and/or not current dry weight. Manufacturers are slowly improving. Buyers beware.
I’d never trust the sticker dry weight. If one could, they should have the dealer weigh it before purchase. All too often the dry weight will be more due to additional unscaled options.
It was said: “I believe your GCWR is the total of front +rear +tow item capacity and the GVWR is the total front+rear capacity.”
It doesn’t really work that way. If one cannot find the published GCWR, they need to call the manufacturer to obtain it. There is no simple formula for consumers to come up with the manufacturer’s GCWR. (At least I’ve never discovered it yet.)
As for the RV Tow Check app, that’s my expert area. I will make few comments just because it was discussed here. If someone wants to start another thread, I’d be glad to discuss it further.
RV Tow Check is intended for pre-purchase. It does work for all tow vehicles, not just trucks. Campin Cajun is correct that it’s not helpful in his current situation. One of the ongoing problems are some people using some RV weight calculators for the wrong purpose. There’s not much that can be done about that.
Dave... and the best half, Amy
Fifth Wheel St. - Provides the only 13 point weight safety report.
08 Dodge Ram 3500 4X4, Dually, 6.7L Diesel, B&W Gooseneck with 5th Wheel Companion, Firestone Air Bags, K&N cold air intake with AEM dry filter
SOB: 09 Cyclone 4012 (GVWR: 20,400#) with Trail Air Tri Glide Air Ride Pin Box, My toy in the garage is a 2008 smart fortwo (1.8K#).