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Old 11-03-2014, 08:49 AM   #11
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Here is a Static Air Brake Test procedure that I found:

Pre Trip Inspection Brake Check

Parking Brake Check (Pre Trip Inspection)
Apply parking brake only and make sure it will hold the vehicle by shifting into a lower gear and gently pulling against the brake.

Air Brake Check (air brake equipped vehicles only) (Pre Trip Inspection)
Air brake safety devices vary. However, this procedure is designed to see that any safety device operates correctly as air pressure drops from normal to a low air
condition. For safety purposes, in areas where an incline is present, you will need to use wheel chocks during the air brake check. The proper procedures for
inspecting the air brake system are as follows:

Test Air Leakage Rate (Static check) (Pre Trip Inspection)
With a fully-charged air system (typically 120 psi), turn off the engine, chock the wheels, release (push in) the parking brake button (all vehicles) and trailer air supply
button (for combination vehicles) and time the air pressure drop. After the initial pressure drop, the loss rate should be no more than 2 psi in one minute for single
vehicles and no more than 3 psi in one minute for combination vehicles.

Test Air Brake System for Leaks (Pre Trip Inspection)
With parking brake, (all vehicles) and trailer air supply button (for combination vehicles) released (pushed in), apply firm pressure to the service brake pedal. Watch
the air supply gauge and listen for leaks. After the initial pressure drop, the loss rate for single vehicles should be no more than 3 psi in one minute and no more
than 4 psi in one minute for combination vehicles. If the air loss rate exceeds these figures, have the air system repaired before operating.

Test Low Pressure Warning Alarm and/or Signal (Pre Trip Inspection)
Turn the key to the on position. Rapidly apply and release the service brake pedal to reduce air tank pressure. The low air pressure warning signal must come on
before the pressure drops to less than 60 psi in the air tank. If the warning alarm/signal doesn’t work, you could be losing air pressure without knowing it. This could
cause the spring brakes to activate suddenly. Only limited braking can be done before the spring brakes come on.

Check That the Spring Brakes Come on Automatically.
Continue to rapidly apply and release the service brake pedal to further reduce air tank pressure. The trailer air supply button (if it is a combination vehicle) and
parking brake button should pop out when the air pressure falls to the manufacturer’s specification (usually between 20 to 40 psi). This causes the spring brakes to
come on.

Check Rate of Air Pressure Buildup (Pre Trip Inspection)
When the engine is operating at 1800 RPM, the pressure should build from 85 to 100 psi within 45 seconds in dual air systems. (If the vehicle has larger than
minimum air tanks, the buildup time can be longer and still be safe. Check the manufacturer’s specifications.) If air pressure does not build up fast enough, your
pressure may drop too low during driving, requiring an emergency stop. Don’t drive until you get the problem fixed.

Test Service Brakes (Pre Trip Inspection)
Wait for normal air pressure, release the parking brake and trailer air supply button
(for combination vehicles), move the vehicle forward slowly (about 5 mph), and apply the brakes firmly using the brake pedal. Note any vehicle “pulling” to one side,
unusual feel, or delayed stopping action. This test may show you problems which you otherwise wouldn’t know about until you needed the brakes on the road.


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Finally completed all State visits in August 2011 with a trip to North Dakota.
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Old 11-04-2014, 10:14 PM   #12
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Ok - I had a mobile mechanic come out today. We had a hole in an air hose that went to the right rear brake can! The two air lines were rubbing against each other.

Unfortunately, the mechanic didn't have the hose and left to have one made b/c nobody had it in stock. I did not realize I would have to pay for his time while he wasn't here!!

The bill was 600.00! I nearly fainted! The hydraulic leak ended up being the black valves (i think thats what they are). There were 3 that were pretty loose.

Thanks for everyone's help!
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Old 11-05-2014, 06:54 AM   #13
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The tow bill would have much worse if you were driving and the brakes locked up for lack of air pressure. Then add the emergency repairs on top of that.
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Old 11-05-2014, 08:06 AM   #14
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Superchief; thank you for the great information for testing air brakes. Do you know if these are the tests that trucks are supposed to do at the crest of steep downhill's which have signs and pull-over areas to do the test. I am sure with a DP, that we should be doing these downhill tests as well and was wondering what to do.

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Old 11-05-2014, 10:43 AM   #15
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Hank, Not sure about testing at the top of a grade, but when Ed (wnytaxman) took his "B" endorsement driving test for New York State, the Examiner told him he should run a static test on the air brakes before any trips. Craig


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Old 11-05-2014, 04:06 PM   #16
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Superchief; your mentioning of the "Class - B" license brings up an interesting point. I am licensed in NJ and only have an auto license. I know nothing of what other states require; do you? Also brings up the point of legality in driving in other states. H'mm!!!
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:18 PM   #17
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Hank, Whatever your State requirement are, is good in other States. You can not legally possess two or more driver's licenses. In New York State, you need a "B" endorsement if your Motorhome is over 26,000 lbs. There has been previous posts about other States on this Forum before. I know Texas has a requirement, as do several other States. Craig


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Old 11-05-2014, 04:26 PM   #18
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Hank, Here is a table (series of photos) about requirements by States.Click image for larger version

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ID:	65906.. Craig


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Old 11-05-2014, 04:29 PM   #19
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Hank, New York is a "R" endorsement, not a "B" endorsement - should have looked at my license - me bad!!! Craig


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Old 11-05-2014, 04:52 PM   #20
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Thanks for the info.; Craig

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