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Old 08-05-2016, 12:57 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
The "blockage" is a liquid that does not return to the boiler in an out of level operation. If there is not enough liquid in the boiler to boil, the boiler will crack from the heat and let the coolant leak out.
Thanks Herk, I did not know that is what created the issue in a situation like this. Always learning!
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:30 PM   #12
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Do you already have an inverter? I don't think you want to have to run your generator every time you are off grid. The inverter will need to be wired to the fridge only and that inverter will will add $750-$1000 to your cost if you don't already have one installed. Just trying to keep it apples to apples on total cost.

He has a 1200 inverter with 4 6 volt batteries. All Berkshires have that set up until 2014 when they went to residential refrigerators. They them are equipped with a 2000 inverter. The 1200 will not consistently run the fridge. Most that add a res fridge will add a separate inverter just to run the fridge or change out the 1200 for the 2000. It is also possible to just run the gen as it is diesel and it likes to be run. It uses about a 1/2 gal of diesel per hour to run. Many people I know with all electric Moho's run the gen every time the drive the rig.
In my experience I would rather not do that. I would change the inverter to a 2400 and add 2 more batteries for a total of 6. That adds a huge price tag to switching to a res fridge. That's why I would go the route of a Amish conversation. That gives you a much better working two fuel fridge and half the cost and they work very very well. I'm glad mine is working great and have not had to do either.
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:32 PM   #13
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I ended-up replacing our Dometic 8.0 with a residential/inverter combo (myself) but yours is such a nice big fridge I would want to do everything possible to salvage it...

1) Set it on the coldest settings. If freezer freezes but fridge is still above 40 then your cooling unit likely has issues.
2) Test to see if results are identical running on both electric & propane. Don't skip this step. Sometimes the electric heating unit goes bad even on very new units... Just a few watts off & it won't cool properly...
3) Check for leaking ammonia mix (yellowish) around rear tubing. If your fridge isn't that old & doesn't show signs of leaking then I would do as others suggest, pull it out & tilt it (steeply) side to side until you get ammonia mix to settle to the bottom.
4) If you're handy you can replace the cooling unit with an Amish rebuild for $1000. Online videos will walk you through the process. Your fridge is heavy & big but most cooling units can be replaced inside without taking the fridge out a window...

5) Or you can replace it with a residential fridge like we did which means finding a window it will go out & new one back in...

I found a Whirlpool that fit in the same space as my old fridge & it has 30% more space inside. Our 8.0 size fit through an egress/emergency exit window. Our TT did not have an inverter, so I installed a 2000W inverter inside the pass-through storage & added a 2nd battery.

Couldn't be happier. The residential fridge cools in less than 1 hour & stays cool powered by the inverter while we are on the road. I can turn-off my propane for safety & passage through tunnels, etc. I just have (2) 12V batteries & they keep the fridge running all night while only requiring the generator to run a couple hours to top them off again... What I like best is that our 3 kids can open & close fridge a lot & it stays pegged right on 38 degrees just like the one at home... Before the RV fridge would spike to 50 & take a couple hours to go back to 40...
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:03 PM   #14
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There is one more option besides buying new, going home style (120V) and having someone rebuild yours. And it is MUCH less expensive. Rebuild yoru own! Here is a link to a site that has them, both a factory unit and a brand new Amish built unit. The Amish are true experts in absorption refrigerators since they dont' have electricity in their homes.

I rebuilt the refrigerator in my last RV and it worked better after I replaced teh cooling unit than it EVER had.

The guy at the link will not only sell it to you he will stand behind his product and help you with the installation.

http://rvcoolingunit.com/Search.aspx?k=dometic+rm1350

Here is a link to download the instructions for doing the job so you can read it and decide if you want to tackle it yourself. (It really isn't that hard and can be done inside your RV on the kitchen table)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Cooling Unit Change - Dometic New Series1.pdf (1.57 MB, 72 views)
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:41 PM   #15
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Thank you Douglas. They are about $1400 delivered for my fridge.
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:05 PM   #16
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You are welcome. From personal experience should you go this route the MOST important thing is to get the new unit SEALED on the rear using the tube of sealant supplied my the seller. Also, buy a roll of aluminum tape (sold at Air Conditioning supply houses and seal the edges of the unit on the back (you will know what I am talking about when you see the replacement unit.

My other advice is do not try to remove your old unit til you have the new replacement in hand. That way you will know what you are looking at, what you have to remove so it will be easier to keep from making a mistake.

We have ALL been there, fixing things we didn't understand til we did the project and have all received assistance from others knowledgeable in that area. You can thank me by paying it forward, helping others when you have the opportunity.

If you run into difficulties, PM me and I will give you my phone number and I can try and help you over the phone. Please be patient with me though, when I work I work 14 hours a day for 2 weeks straight so I WILL get back with you, just not always quickly.
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:20 PM   #17
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This looks like a great way to get it fixed. I would attempt this project.
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Old 08-05-2016, 05:19 PM   #18
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Smile I Ruined Our Fridge Need Advice

When we bought our 2011 Berkshire 390RB in Nov of 2012, within a week our Dometic 1350 quit working. We had a repairman come out and said we needed a new cooling unit. Our neighbor in the RV park told us to get a second opinion which we did. The repairman came out and did every test he could (he had been to the Dometic Training Class and knew how to check everything). He said it seemed to be the cooling unit. However, when he left he called some of his other RV repairmen friends and they told him something to try. He came back, took off the outside panel and felt the cooling tubes. The top was one temperature and the bottom a different temperature although it was a continuous tube. He said his fellow repairmen said it could be a bubble in the tubing. He hit it fairly hard (more than just a tap with the rubber hammer) with a rubber hammer at the curves and along each straight edge. He said to give it overnight and see what happens. The next morning the fridge was working fine and has been doing so ever since. Just a suggestion to try before you spend any money.
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Old 08-05-2016, 05:59 PM   #19
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I will admit...when I started reading this post before I was ready to call BS. I typed it in and found sure nuff if you run bad off level for even a few hours it can crystallize the solution in the lines because it gets too hot and boils the water out and leaves the ammonia to "fend for itself". I wonder how the rebuilders get the ones cleaned up? If they can clean it up...maybe yours can be. Obviously it isn't rotted out from years of use. Do they add solution, do they rod it out, boil it out like a radiator. We have/had a refrigeration place in our town that worked on absorption units... maybe yours too. Just a thought. Gotta be cheaper than $1500 to reapir. These are the most simple of all refrigeration systems....Heat, solution and air flow/convection is all you need.
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Old 08-05-2016, 06:57 PM   #20
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I have the same refrigerator. We set up camp and after a couple of days noticed the temperature (set on 4 of 5) had gone from 37 all the way up to 46.

When we arrived we had to get right to the hospital to see our new born granddaughter so it was one time I did not verify the automatic leveling with a bubble level. Sure enough it was half a bubble off front to back (side to side for the fridge) and a full bubble off on the side of the MH. I manually tweaked the level that evening and the next morning it was back at 37 and goes as low as 34. I am so thankful I caught it before the ammonia crystallized.

First thing I am doing when we get home is re-calibrate the levelers.
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