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Old 10-12-2014, 11:05 PM   #11
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Not sure I'd use a pipe wrench on a polished Hyd cylinder but anyway if its that difficult to get loose after you've done three, something may be seriously wrong. It's not difficult to remove the ram. Disconnect the two hydraulic lines with bucket to drain the tubing. Remove a max 8 maybe 3/4 inch bolts and take the entire assembly to a machine shop. Chances are the bolt is thread damaged from the load and you won't get it out w/o major damage.
A shop can get it out, chase the thread and reassemble for you. Just my thinking, if you strip it, you'll probably go to shop anyway or buy new.
X2 it really does sound like it might be cross threaded or some other damage to threads.
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:15 PM   #12
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Got it!!

Equalizer tech support assured me the fluid seals were high enough in the cylinder that I could heat the rod with damaging the seals. I wrapped the rod and wiper seal with a wet wash cloth, heated it real real good, grabbed as low on the rod as I could with a set of thin jawed channel-locks (Equalizer suggested a pipe wrench) and hit it with the impact wrench and bingo. The thread-locker they used was white, strong stuff. No signs of corrosion or cross-threading.

Put a few marks on the rod but they're real low and hopefully want cause any harm.
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Old 10-13-2014, 04:43 PM   #13
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Outstanding... Why is it always the last one that puts up a fight..lol
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Old 10-13-2014, 04:44 PM   #14
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Great perseverance. Just think of what a shop would have charged you. Granted, you spent a lot of time, but I bet you have a great deal of satisfaction.

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Old 10-13-2014, 08:25 PM   #15
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Great perseverance. Just think of what a shop would have charged you. Granted, you spent a lot of time, but I bet you have a great deal of satisfaction.

Hank


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Had mine replaced by a Tech and he took $200. Was an incredible amount of effort, he broke several of his tools; I gave him an extra $50.

According to Equalizer, you can indeed use a vice-grip type tool on the very end of the piston without jeopardizing the seal. Someone already mentioned this; it appears to me that you could "booger" the ram as far as 1/4 to 3/8 inch and you still won't ruin the seal.

He used heat and a IR temp sensor to make sure the part near the seal did not get to hot. Then a large pipe wrench, a breaker bar welded to an appropriate sized hex (allen) wrench and a big sledge hammer!!

My pads were punching thru VERY suddenly with a heluva noise and violent rocking of the coach. The replacement pads (comped by Eq) were a lot sturdier; CS at Eq said they been tested with a press and hit 12K lbs before failing. Sure be enuff for a Berk, eh??

Boowho??
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:01 PM   #16
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If I had it to do over:

I would jack up the front of the motorhome as high as I could to allow extending the jack as far possible and still have access to the bolt with the impact wrench. This would have given the fluid seals more distance from the heat.

Oh well, time will tell if the heat did any damage.
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