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06-11-2016, 10:42 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 102
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I got to put an eyeball ont I-RV's installation, and it's even slicker than it looks in his post. I'm sorry that mine totally quit before this model came out, although the Girard heater Model GSWH-1 (“Gen-1”) I had totally quit, and I had to do something. I therefore installed the newer "dial-type" GSWH-1M (“1M model”), and it works fine - a big improvement.
Sadly, I probably didn't have to replace it after it totally quit, although I tried in vain several times to escape from an assumed heater outlet over-temp lockout, using the escape method documented in the users manual.
After I went to the trouble to install the replacement model, I inadvertently caused an outlet over-temp lockout, from which I again was unable to recover. This time, I called Girard customer service, and they gave me the escape procedure, which is undocumented. With the heater off, press the black button in the center of the white, cylindrical plastic "ECO valve in the outlet water line, just to the left of the heater box. Then turn the unit on.
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06-19-2016, 02:49 AM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 2
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Girard GSWH-2 Install
Hi, new to the forum. This week I installed my new GSWH-2. After verifying electrical red and black connected correctly, no water leaks and no propane leaks I powered it up. Remote display shows temp but no other icons. Water not heating. Opened cover, green light on main board. No error codes but no sound from the blower motor. I read on earlier models that there was a ECO valve that could be depressed to reset the unit. However, I do not see one on this model. Any ideas on how to get her fired up?
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06-19-2016, 06:32 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
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Hinged on left is good for me
Quote:
Originally Posted by Subsailor
It would have been nice if they made that door hinged on the right instead of the left. I always worry about a latch failing or not be shut all the way and when doors are hinged on the left and come open while going down the highway, probably gone. One of my travel checks is to go around and pull on every outside door. -Glenn
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My WH is on the left side of my camper. Hinged on the left would keep the door closed if the latch failed. It just depends on which side your WH is mounted. I can't see them making teo models, but a reversible door might be an option for when a Gen4 model appears
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06-19-2016, 07:15 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Mount Laurel, NJ
Posts: 1,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdogrv
Hi, new to the forum. This week I installed my new GSWH-2. After verifying electrical red and black connected correctly, no water leaks and no propane leaks I powered it up. Remote display shows temp but no other icons. Water not heating. Opened cover, green light on main board. No error codes but no sound from the blower motor. I read on earlier models that there was a ECO valve that could be depressed to reset the unit. However, I do not see one on this model. Any ideas on how to get her fired up?
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The water heater has a valve located on the back of the unit. Make sure that it is open.
Hank
__________________
Gale & Hank- 2012 Berkshire 390BH
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06-23-2016, 06:33 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I-RV
The water heater has a valve located on the back of the unit. Make sure that it is open.
Hank
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Hank - thanks! It is open. Any other thoughts?
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06-26-2016, 09:20 AM
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#26
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I-RV
I previously had the Girard Gen I (GSWH-1) Thank-Less water heater, which was a pain! I installed by myself the Gen III (GSWH-2) about a month ago and have since tried it out on a trip to St. Augustine and then to the 1000 Islands. It works like a water heater should; just set the desired temperature and if too hot, cold water may be mixed in or the temperature can be lowered. It is awesome!!!
The following current thread also makes mention by some Gen III users:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-107997-4.html
I suggest that other Gen III users post their evaluations here to give all the Berk Gen I & II users a vote of confidence should they consider making the change..
Here are some pics of my installation:
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My tankless water heater is not heating. It has in the past. We are new to the motor home business. Suggestions that might get this issue resolved.
How does one get the gas fired water heater to come on? Do you have to turn off the electricity?
We have a 2016 Berkshire 34 SQ model.
All suggestions appreciated.
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06-26-2016, 09:51 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Michigan/Fort Myers
Posts: 3,927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhornback
My tankless water heater is not heating. It has in the past. We are new to the motor home business. Suggestions that might get this issue resolved.
How does one get the gas fired water heater to come on? Do you have to turn off the electricity?
We have a 2016 Berkshire 34 SQ model.
All suggestions appreciated.
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I did answer on the other thread. So you know the Atwood WH is LP only no electric option.
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06-26-2016, 03:22 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hallen01
I got to put an eyeball ont I-RV's installation, and it's even slicker than it looks in his post. I'm sorry that mine totally quit before this model came out, although the Girard heater Model GSWH-1 (“Gen-1”) I had totally quit, and I had to do something. I therefore installed the newer "dial-type" GSWH-1M (“1M model”), and it works fine - a big improvement.
Sadly, I probably didn't have to replace it after it totally quit, although I tried in vain several times to escape from an assumed heater outlet over-temp lockout, using the escape method documented in the users manual.
After I went to the trouble to install the replacement model, I inadvertently caused an outlet over-temp lockout, from which I again was unable to recover. This time, I called Girard customer service, and they gave me the escape procedure, which is undocumented. With the heater off, press the black button in the center of the white, cylindrical plastic "ECO valve in the outlet water line, just to the left of the heater box. Then turn the unit on.
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Thank you for the photo. I have a similar button on my unit. I pressed the button when the switch was off on the inside. Returned to the inside and turned the water heater switch on and checked. Still not hot water from either the tankless or propane water heater.
Are the tankless and the propane heater two separate hot water heaters? Is one electric and the other one propane?
As in your photo I see the copper tank and hear water running through it but the unit never comes on. Education and suggestions welcomed.
Thanks in advance.
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06-26-2016, 06:23 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Michigan/Fort Myers
Posts: 3,927
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You have one water heater. It's an Atwood brand and only runs on LP. There is no electric element on it. It does not run on anything but LP.
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07-08-2016, 02:59 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhornback
Thank you for the photo. I have a similar button on my unit. I pressed the button when the switch was off on the inside. Returned to the inside and turned the water heater switch on and checked. Still not hot water from either the tankless or propane water heater.
Are the tankless and the propane heater two separate hot water heaters? Is one electric and the other one propane?
As in your photo I see the copper tank and hear water running through it but the unit never comes on. Education and suggestions welcomed.
Thanks in advance.
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We also have a 2016 Berkshire 34QS and are having trouble getting hot water. Sounds like you are saying you turn off the switch inside the MH and then go to the outside access panel near the passenger rear and press a black button and then turn the heater back on inside. Not getting any help from our dealer and getting frustrated as we need hot water for my elderly parents.
__________________
Bill - Berkshire 34QS
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07-08-2016, 03:31 PM
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#31
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 17
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Called Atwood, they returned my call, Yes!
I had cleaned the tube leading to the pressure switch and previously attempted to clean the inside of the pressure switch but did not a strong toothpick for the task. Atwood stated it had to be the pressure switch. I secured long, stronger toothpicks and re-cleaned the opening where the black tube connected to the pressure switch. Turned on the power, ran water and it worked. Yeah! Atwood stated we could move the black tube so it does not extend through the cover to help prevent insects from clogging the unit.
Atwood's customer service was prompt and helpful.
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07-08-2016, 03:35 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Michigan/Fort Myers
Posts: 3,927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by u30363
We also have a 2016 Berkshire 34QS and are having trouble getting hot water. Sounds like you are saying you turn off the switch inside the MH and then go to the outside access panel near the passenger rear and press a black button and then turn the heater back on inside. Not getting any help from our dealer and getting frustrated as we need hot water for my elderly parents.
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If you have a 2016 my guess is you have a Atwood water heater. This post is getting confused as it is about a Gen lll water heater made by Gerard. You may what to start a new post to get more help. As this is old I can try to help but I doubt other Atwood people will see it.
A couple of things to try. First obviously make sure you are getting LP to the heater. Next check the switch on the wall. It has a red light on it. Make sure that is on. Now go outside and check the black tube that sticks out the hole. This is a favorite place for bugs especially mud daubers. Pull it off the pressure switch and run a piece of wire or a pipe cleaner something like that. Now check the bottom of the pressure switch where the black tube goes. A MD will seal that end. That's easy to miss I know first hand. When you put the tube back on turn it so it points inside not through the hole. This is recommended by the manufacturer. Also seal the hole as the damn MD will go in and find his tube and start all over. Also I know that form first hand experience. If all that doesn't get it going pull both brown wires off the pressure switch. That's where the black tube goes. With the hot water running touch the wires together. If it starts up double check the black tube again. If clear and I mean completely clear you have a bad pressure switch.
Also there is a reset button in the heater compartment. It is on the left side about half way up. When you push it you will feel it click. If you don't feel that click it doesn't need resetting.
If no joy call Atwood customer service and they will help trouble shoot.
A couple of things that will help understand the Atwood.
First you need good water pressure. 50-60 is great. Below 40 and you will hate it. Also I start with full hot and slowly add cold. If you go to far with the cold it will shut off because there is not enough flow through the heater. So if it's very hot I turn the BTU's down. This is outside again and it's a orange or red valve that you can turn to increase or decrease the gas flow. I have mixed results with turning it down but you can play with it.
Once you learn how the heater works and you get used to it you will love it. I do mine. Well honestly it's a love hate thing but mostly love. Let us know how it works.
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