Mechanism That keeps Front Door Open

[AREA51]

Has anyone had a problem with the mechanism on the top of the front door? It is a knee type piece that when the door is open the pivot point catches in a slot. This is the second time mine has failed, first time Warren at FR fixed it, this time I am purchasing the whole mechanism from FR at the price of $283.64 plus shipping. (LOCK, ENTRY DOOR CHECK-POS-A-LOCK-USED ON CHARLESTON & BERKSHIRE, PN20X17048A) kind of expensive. So has anyone found an easy repair or workaround?

GOOD LUCK
AREA51

[dan-nickie]

Just had this issue a couple months ago. Other board members told me what to do. The small post that slides back and forth in the slot has a small metal collar around it. That collar is split on one side. Take a small screwdriver and gently pry the collar open slightly to create more friction.

[AREA51]

Dan,

Thanks for the advise. The collar you talked about is destroyed. I noticed the first time it failed that Warren at FR made up some kind of sleeve and must have closed it over the pivot pin. I did order the new mechanism but when I install it I will see what I can come up with, perhaps a piece of a roll pin or split bushing. I will take measurements from the new piece. It seems a shame to spend so much just to replace an inexpensive piece that seems doomed to failure from normal use.

GOOD LUCK
AREA51

[edgewant]

Wow! That's pretty pricey for something so simple.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

2013 Berkshire 390RB-60
Toad: 2002 Jeep Wrangler

[edgewant]

Try PTL engineering. Looks like they may make the part and if it's the right one it's only $85.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

2013 Berkshire 390RB-60
Toad: 2002 Jeep Wrangler

[silver]

Last time this topic was discussed I commented that I used a combination of a vice grip pliers and hammer to squeeze the slot the pin goes in. I was tole that this was not the way to fix the problem but my door has stayed open now for over five years. So maybe not the right way but it only cost me time and it worked.

[I-RV]

Originally Posted by dan-nickie

Just had this issue a couple months ago. Other board members told me what to do. The small post that slides back and forth in the slot has a small metal collar around it. That collar is split on one side. Take a small screwdriver and gently pry the collar open slightly to create more friction.

I spread the collar and it broke with a piece falling out; hence a new door bracket from PTL.

The collar is spring steel and what makes matters worse (at least was on mine), the collar has a small rivet to the post that cannot easily be seen. To me, it is a bad design. The door check should be more robust. Silver's idea might be a better approach.
Hank

[AREA51]

Thanks All,

I feel pretty stupid after seeing the photo from PTL Engineering.
Part Number: 001-523
Price: $85.09
Description: Locking Door Check Engineering
I should have gone out to the forum first and am pretty ripped at FR for such an exceptional mark-up. I have already placed the order but am not happy.

Silver probably made the right repair, if that does fail he can always order the part from PTL Engineering.

GOOD LUCK
AREA51

[Paulie Boy]

Originally Posted by AREA51

Thanks All,



I feel pretty stupid after seeing the photo from PTL Engineering.

Part Number: 001-523

Price: $85.09

Description: Locking Door Check Engineering

I should have gone out to the forum first and am pretty ripped at FR for such an exceptional mark-up. I have already placed the order but am not happy.



Silver probably made the right repair, if that does fail he can always order the part from PTL Engineering.



GOOD LUCK

AREA51

Call FR and tell Andy you found the piece elsewhere for the price quoted. It's worth a try, if he doesn't budge tell him it's on the way back to FR.


Paul
2015 XL 40QL-60
2015 Jeep Wrangler Unltd. Sahara
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[edgewant]

Andy has allowed me to return parts when I found it for a better price elsewhere. He is very helpful and reasonable.

[I-RV]

Originally Posted by silver

Last time this topic was discussed I commented that I used a combination of a vice grip pliers and hammer to squeeze the slot the pin goes in. I was tole that this was not the way to fix the problem but my door has stayed open now for over five years. So maybe not the right way but it only cost me time and it worked.

Silver - I did the same with using a small vise. It improved the door check from not holding at all, to holding it open. The slot that the spring-steel collar slips in, is not supposed to be "U" shaped, but be slightly necked in at the opening. The tip of bracket's opening probably wears.

I'd advise anyone doing this to take the bracket down and very carefully squeeze the Thumb shaped protrusion with a large metal vice. Why I say carefully is that if the Thumb is bent inward too much, you will be throwing away the bracket. With a large metal vise, I would suggest to squeeze the bracket ever so slightly, take out of the vise and check its operation. If still loose, squeeze a little more. By doing this in mini-steps you can avoid over bending and destroying the bracket.

Hank

[mnoland30]

I just drilled a hole in the bottom of the door and hook a bungee on it. Who knew I could have spent so much money on a fancy door holder?

[RKNOLA]

[QUOTE=AREA51;1166351]Has anyone had a problem with the mechanism on the top of the front door? It is a knee type piece that when the door is open the pivot point catches in a slot. This is the second time mine has failed, first time Warren at FR fixed it, this time I am purchasing the whole mechanism from FR at the price of $283.64 plus shipping. (LOCK, ENTRY DOOR CHECK-POS-A-LOCK-USED ON CHARLESTON & BERKSHIRE, PN20X17048A) kind of expensive. So has anyone found an easy repair or workaround?

GOOD LUCK
AREA51[/QUOTE

Is this for a Berkshire or a Charlston? Which year/model do you have?

[AquaMan]

Take some pictures of the part and the failure, I'll take a look. May come up with a solution.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[AREA51]

I have a 2008 Berkshire, the replacement part from FR is for either a Charleston or a Berkshire. I did purchase it, however, I also repaired the existing part and will continue to use it until it fails again. Meanwhile I have a very pricey spare in my tool kit.
GOOD LUCK
AREA51

[I-RV]

AREA51; what method of repair did you use?
Hank

[AREA51]

I did not want to squeeze the forks so I found a piece of tubing (part of a nipple) put a kerf in it and spread it enough to put around the pin and squeezed it back. It seems to work well enough for now. I was going to grind/cut off the bottom of the pin slide a piece of tube over it and tap the pin for a #4 screw and use a flat washer to hold all in place. Way to much work especially since I bought the replacement. It is a poor design, that bushing (or what ever it is called) should be easily replaceable.
GOOD LUCK
AREA51

[I-RV]

Originally Posted by AREA51

It is a poor design, that bushing (or what ever it is called) should be easily replaceable.
GOOD LUCK
AREA51

X2 - Also that bushing is tempered and very easy to break
Hank

[RKNOLA]

Well AREA51 I am glad you were able to fix it (and have a spare). Hopefully your fix will work for a long time and the spare will just be really expensive insurance.