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Old 09-23-2015, 10:50 AM   #21
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I mostly wanted your opinion and I thank you for that.
Phil, you sure got'em!!

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Old 09-23-2015, 11:28 AM   #22
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I'm not going to do the mod but the black tank is vented and there is this big hole coming thru the floor called a toilet. If the black tank is installed correctly there is no way for backflow to occur (my opinion). This is a typical rv cleanout I believe:
Why not do away with plastic backflow valve in the drawing, and buy a brass one and insert it between the inlet and flusher, doing away with excessive hose and a valve, when it fails, would let black tank fumes into lavatory?
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:28 PM   #23
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I use the "Y" setup....main water hose to input and two short pieces of hose to each input.......When I want to flush out black tank I shut off the fresh water side and then open up flush side.....and vice versa.........I cannot see how any contamination can occur to the fresh water system within the RV..Water pressure "in" is greater than any pressure "back"....Tank is vented!!!!.....J
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:32 PM   #24
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I don't see how it could back flow up 3 feet from the tank level and in my rv's case another 28 feet forward from the tank to cause any problem. If someone has over filled there black tank that much then they have a much bigger problem in the bathroom and they should not be rv'ing.
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:58 PM   #25
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Here is a pic of mine...using a "Y" between the City Supply and Fresh Fill. Also added brass high flow quick connects to make hose connections easier. I usually only back flush the BT at home after trips and keep a dedicated hose for that purpose. For me, I see no need to have a common connection to the BT Flush, adds risk for not much reward. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-23-2015, 02:01 PM   #26
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Back flows occur, when you get negative pressure in the water main(or what you are filling with)which can happen with a broken line in the water system, which causes a vacuum in the line. I worked for the Seattle Water Dept. for 30yrs so I know about cross-contamination, and I would not hook up my potable water to any non potable water even with a back flow prevention device, because I have seen them fail. Unless you want to spend A lot of money on a legal on, and a 3/4" one will cost in excess of $50 or more, I would trust a cheap one. Most of the trailers that have the tank flush system do have a vacuum break system but they are not a back flow preventer. they help but are a minimum safety device. It does not take that much more time to take off the flushing hose and put on a fresh water hose. Mine is stuck back up where I can't even see it, I have to feel for it. I am going to move it to the out side of the trailer to get it away from the potable water. FR has a bad design.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:48 PM   #27
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Why not do away with plastic backflow valve in the drawing, and buy a brass one and insert it between the inlet and flusher, doing away with excessive hose and a valve, when it fails, would let black tank fumes into lavatory?
If the rv comes with a BT clean out the manufacturer has installed it in accordance with (IAW) IAPMO TSC-27 which requires the check valve to be a minimum of 6" above the highest flood level rim of any fixture connected to the waste holding tank.The clean out nozzle in the tank is within 2" maximum from top of tank. There are aftermarket clean outs and they work great and are not required to be installed IAW any standards (a DIY) but if manufacturers are going to install one they must follow existing standards and FR does, as far as I can tell.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:50 PM   #28
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Here is a pic of mine...using a "Y" between the City Supply and Fresh Fill. Also added brass high flow quick connects to make hose connections easier. I usually only back flush the BT at home after trips and keep a dedicated hose for that purpose. For me, I see no need to have a common connection to the BT Flush, adds risk for not much reward. Attachment 89668


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Now this set up is sexy looking, I can go for that and have a separate hose for the flushing of bt.
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:58 PM   #29
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Last time I used the tank flusher, it developed a leak in the plastic body where the floating valve inside meets it's seat. When there's no water pressure present, the valve is an open vent into black tank if the check valve fails. If I hadn't had the pass-thru door open, I'd never seen the water leak'n. So, to fix the problem I bought a proper backflow valve ($30 @ HD) and eliminated the plastic one and about 15' of hose. Mounted it just inside the wall, so when disconnecting there will be minimal water present to soak you. The original valve says it's good for 125lbs. and my regulator is set at 45lbs, so it wasn't being over pressurized...it just failed....good luck with yours. Sit'n here look'n at factory valve, it is a backflow valve.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:19 PM   #30
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Now this set up is sexy looking, I can go for that and have a separate hose for the flushing of bt.
Sort of reminds me of the FLUX CAPACITOR. I wonder if it glows?
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