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Old 08-01-2018, 09:56 AM   #21
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John can you send pictures, so I can show them to Randy House next in Goshen. Thanks Bob

Gordon I have yours already.
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Old 08-01-2018, 11:22 AM   #22
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Slide pictures.

Bob
I have not painted the screw heads yet but it helps to see the screw heads and bolts in these pictures.
Bolts are located close to the track on top and bottom.
Bolts are 1/4" x 2 1/2" with fender washer and locking nut on inside
Screws are Self drilling-Hex Washer Head- size 12 - 14 x 1"
Hope this is what you are looking for.
John
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Old 08-05-2018, 01:28 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btritschler1437 View Post
John can you send pictures, so I can show them to Randy House next in Goshen. Thanks Bob

Gordon I have yours already.
Bob,
It is a good idea to discuss this with the Diesel Division directly. Thanks.

I did attempt to correspond with Mitch Wirt on this, but his auto reply indicated that he was out of town. I found the matter so urgent that I decided to proceed without his advice, once I received and read the Lippert Owners and Installation Manuals.

The problem is particularly acute with the 34QS Kitchen slide. This slide is 16 feet long and holds a lot of weight: residential fridge, microwave, cooktop, sinks, Corolan countertop, dinette seats/table and cabinets. It is hard for me to imagine that a 34QS kitchen slide with the Schwintek mechanism will not fail after 200 operations.

Our 34QS was dragging on the floor while closing, and I think this solves the problem.

The fix is easy in the aftermarket and should be done in the factory for new units. Indeed, I seem to recall some mention in this forum that the new 34QS now has a hydraulic kitchen slide. I'm not sure how that works and whether it solves the problem.

–Gordon
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Old 08-06-2018, 09:14 PM   #24
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I'm sure most of you know this but it's worth mentioning. When drilling a hole from the back side of a painted panel, place a piece of masking tape over the painted area. This simple trick stops the exiting drill bit from chipping the paint/clearcoat and gives a nice clean finished hole in the painted panel.

PS- let the drill do it's job, don't push too hard as the drill is exiting the panel.
The screw head covers the bolt hole, and I didn't find any paint chips from the drilling.

But, this does bring to mind a subtle point about the choice of head for the screw. At 1/4", the most common screw has a hex head for a socket or box-end wrench. But, if you use this setup, you will scratch the paint at a very visible point. I took care to get Phillips or square (Robertson) screw heads. I could still tighten them with a ratchet but I didn't risk scratching the paint. I found that 3" screws cut to 2 5/8" (and cleaned with a die after cutting) worked well, when I used nuts that locked with nylon inserts. If the screw is too long, it hits the trim inside the coach that is around the slide. I found I could fit a finger behind the trim, and the screw and nut only came 3/8" through the wall.

–Gordon
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The Manual I wrote for our 34QS:
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Toad: 2019 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4; Formerly: 2005 Acura EL (aka Honda Civic)
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Old 08-08-2018, 05:45 AM   #25
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Gordon. We had the same issue with our 2018 34QS. The trim was OK but the slide was popping and jumping during travel in and out. The slide mechanism was replaced and 500:1 motors installed. It works better but I am always waiting for something bad to happen when operating the kitchen slide. Going to have it looked at in Goshen and I will let you know what FR says about it.
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Old 08-08-2018, 05:53 AM   #26
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We used to have many screws that would loosen up on a trailer. Simply put a little bit of epoxy in the screw hole and a little epoxy on the screw threads screw it in lightly won't come out again.

If you ever do need to take it out no problem they break loose.

M-Bob
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Old 08-11-2018, 06:07 AM   #27
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Yesterday in Goshen spoke with an individual who has screws coming out of slides. His remedy will be to use aircraft rivets. I will try to get the brand he wants to use. CZNEDY what is your site at Goshen?
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Old 08-11-2018, 07:48 AM   #28
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Don’t know yet. We are getting there this morning around 11:00 am. I’ll let you know then.
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Old 08-11-2018, 11:17 AM   #29
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We are getting n site 7 near the track and the draft horse barn. Right along the fence. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-11-2018, 12:26 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by btritschler1437 View Post
Yesterday in Goshen spoke with an individual who has screws coming out of slides. His remedy will be to use aircraft rivets. I will try to get the brand he wants to use. CZNEDY what is your site at Goshen?
Aircraft rivets will only attach the h-column mounting flange/trim to the thin aluminum/fiberglass outside wall of the RV. If it works, you'll start delaminating the outside wall from the frame inside the wall because of the heavy pull that is ripping screws out of the same wall.

The 1/4" bolt approach has the nut on the inside of the whole wall, so the force is pulling on the inside wall rather than pulling on the outside wall. There is no force causing delamination.

The bolt approach is stronger and more durable. Bigger screws or rivets runs the risk of getting damage hidden inside the wall.

–Gordon
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2015 Berkshire 34QS
The Manual I wrote for our 34QS:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2579202
Toad: 2019 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4; Formerly: 2005 Acura EL (aka Honda Civic)
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