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Old 12-16-2017, 01:25 PM   #1
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Need an Idea - Pumping Fresh Water from External Bladder

When dry camping. Looking for an idea. How best to pump water from a 30 gallon fresh water bladder in the auto trunk into the Berkshire XL's fresh water tank using the XL's water pump? Gravity feed most likely will not work, unless I place the bladder on the roof of the car.

Other than removing the outside shower head and hose and then finding a hose with the correct ends to mate with the outside shower hot/cold water valve and the fresh water tank inlet, cannot think of anything else. Would then use the existing antifreeze fill hose on the suction side of the installed water pump.
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Old 12-16-2017, 01:40 PM   #2
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12v portable water pump...
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Old 12-16-2017, 02:05 PM   #3
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12v portable water pump...
Thanks, but, would prefer to use the installed pump.
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Old 12-16-2017, 02:10 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by MartyQ View Post
When dry camping. Looking for an idea. How best to pump water from a 30 gallon fresh water bladder in the auto trunk into the Berkshire XL's fresh water tank using the XL's water pump? Gravity feed most likely will not work, unless I place the bladder on the roof of the car.

Other than removing the outside shower head and hose and then finding a hose with the correct ends to mate with the outside shower hot/cold water valve and the fresh water tank inlet, cannot think of anything else. And using the existing antifreeze fill hose on the suction side of the water pump.
Do you have a an antifreeze hose hook up to the water pump? If you do you could add a ball valve with a garden hose fitting added to it to the cold water low drain point. Switch 3 way valve at pump to antifreeze draw. Use a fresh water hose from the bladder to the antifreeze hook up and a fresh water hose from the cold water drain point to the fresh water tank fill. If you go this rout make sure you put a hose cap on the cold water fitting to keep dirt out.

Hope This Helps Tim
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Old 12-16-2017, 02:50 PM   #5
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Using the on board water pump to transfer water is painstakingly slow.
I'd also suggest using an external pump, whether it be a 12 Volt rv water pump, a cheap 120 Volt pump or even an $10 drill pump if you have a drill that spins faster than 1500 rpm.
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Old 12-16-2017, 05:24 PM   #6
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Old 12-16-2017, 06:14 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Cypressloser View Post
Using the on board water pump to transfer water is painstakingly slow.
I'd also suggest using an external pump, whether it be a 12 Volt rv water pump, a cheap 120 Volt pump or even an $10 drill pump if you have a drill that spins faster than 1500 rpm.
I have a fifth wheel and a gravity fed freshwater intake. So I donít know how helpful I am. But I recently went through this.


This. Iíve pumped 40 gallons of water using the antifreeze inlet to outside shower head to the freshwater gravity fill. Itís incredibly slow- like 1gpm. I imagine itís also a power hog running the pump that long but I didnít measure.

Hereís a picture of me filling my freshwater tank from city water. The only difference between this and the external bladder is where the input hose attaches.

Click image for larger version

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I donít think this will work with a non-gravity fresh water fill. The low point drains and hose connection is likely the next thing I do.
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Old 12-16-2017, 07:16 PM   #8
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I had this thought, too, when we were heading to Alaska, if I could possibly use my 100' water hose to drop into a river and bring water into the coach via the water pump and the 'winterizing' position on our Anderson 4-way valve. My thought was that the winterizing feature is simple a way to pump liquids into the water lines without having to pull water from the water tank, right? If so, you would lay the far end of the hose into the water(maybe a filter would be a good idea, right? a sock, if nothing else?), turn on the water pump, and then each time you used your sink it would cause the pump to come on, bringing in the water thru the hose from the river. BUT, I also thought that you would have to consider something else... all the AIR that is in the water hose since you are not 'gravity feeding' from the river, but expecting the water pump to do all the work.... SO, you would want to lay the WHOLE HOSE down into the river, allow the hose to completely fill with water, then add a CAP at the river end, while walking the coach end of the hose back to the rv, which is where you would connect it to the proper coach inlet. But, would gravity then allow all the water in the hose to then drain BACK into the river when you remove the cap, defeating the work you just did? Probably, OR, would the force of the river(if there is enough) keep the water within the water hose until your water pump needed it? Maybe not, SO, you would need a 'backflow' device on the 'river end' to keep the water within the water hose until needed and used by the water pump...

make sense?

this would NOT fill your water tank, at least no on my coach, as this is only available thru the 'city water'(pressurized water) valve connection, where the water pump is not involved, at least I don't think it is, though it seems that all of my water comes in thru the water pump regardless... wrong?
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Old 12-16-2017, 07:28 PM   #9
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I had this thought, too, when we were heading to Alaska, if I could possibly use my 100' water hose to drop into a river and bring water into the coach via the water pump and the 'winterizing' position on our Anderson 4-way valve. My thought was that the winterizing feature is simple a way to pump liquids into the water lines without having to pull water from the water tank, right? If so, you would lay the far end of the hose into the water(maybe a filter would be a good idea, right? a sock, if nothing else?), turn on the water pump, and then each time you used your sink it would cause the pump to come on, bringing in the water thru the hose from the river. BUT, I also thought that you would have to consider something else... all the AIR that is in the water hose since you are not 'gravity feeding' from the river, but expecting the water pump to do all the work.... SO, you would want to lay the WHOLE HOSE down into the river, allow the hose to completely fill with water, then add a CAP at the river end, while walking the coach end of the hose back to the rv, which is where you would connect it to the proper coach inlet. But, would gravity then allow all the water in the hose to then drain BACK into the river when you remove the cap, defeating the work you just did? Probably, OR, would the force of the river(if there is enough) keep the water within the water hose until your water pump needed it? Maybe not, SO, you would need a 'backflow' device on the 'river end' to keep the water within the water hose until needed and used by the water pump... make sense? this would NOT fill your water tank, at least no on my coach, as this is only available thru the 'city water'(pressurized water) valve connection, where the water pump is not involved, at least I don't think it is, though it seems that all of my water comes in thru the water pump regardless... wrong?
Or for $24 bones get a 12v water pump from Walmart and be done with it.
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Old 12-16-2017, 07:41 PM   #10
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Or for $24 bones get a 12v water pump from Walmart and be done with it.
x2!
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