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Old 09-20-2014, 05:33 PM   #21
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Open the dump valve behind water heater ... below washer

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Old 09-20-2014, 05:39 PM   #22
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I always purge the lines of air before I ever turn on the TWH and never had it come on with the head pedal

semt from my s4 mini

2012 Wildcat 344QB

06 LBZ ,CC 4x
lots of mods
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Old 09-21-2014, 07:05 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by LouNick View Post
This sounds to me like a check valve before the water heater may help if the issue is reverse flow when the petal is first pushed. Pushing the pedal causes a reduction in system pressure. The pressurized air in the hot water system causes water to be pushed backward through the heater. When the pedal is released, pressure increases and water pushes back through the heater, triggering the flow switch, which starts the combustion air fan, but not long enough to complete the pre combustion purge cycle before the flow stops due to the air being compressed back up to system pressure. The fan then runs through it's post combustion cycle and shuts down.
Installing a check valve before the heater would prevent the backward flow through the heater. That keeps the hot water system fully pressurized and stops the hot water system from needing to be re-pressurized after each flush even if air is trapped in it.

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2014 Rockwood 8289WS UltraLite w/Revolution Pinbox Engaged.

2011 F250 Power Stroke Super Duty King Ranch Super Crew Cab w/Reese 16K Hitch

With the Girard water heater, water flow (gpm) capacity needs to be maximized in your motor home, for it to give you to get good results from it. There has been many threads about water flow and the Girard. Although a check valve appears to be a good idea, it will steal valuable water flow and will have a pressure drop across it. Also, by installing wyes, will also constrict and reduce flow capacity.

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Gale & Hank- 2012 Berkshire 390BH
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heater, water, water heater

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