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Old 02-24-2016, 10:58 PM   #21
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I know that Ram truck manual regeneration calls for parking on gravel or concrete, not asphalt. I might suggest Utube videos of manual regeneration such as this one. http://youtu.be/c1aK-WACWsY


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Old 02-24-2016, 11:00 PM   #22
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I would think you guys drive enough miles that the engine will not need to regen per say, it will do it while you are on the road. With my chevy it will not need a regen if I travel mostly highways.... SO they say.
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:59 PM   #23
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Regen is to clear the particulate emissions collected in the Diesel particulate filter(DPF). The particulates (soot) are usually created during acceleration (remember the black smoke that used to be seen from semi-tractor stacks). Regeneration is usually done at speed, the proper conditions must be met before the cycle begins, and there is usually no indication that it is happening. However, if the DPF fills and conditions for automatic regeneration are not met, you will get a warning of some kind, and a manual regen is the quickest way to get back to normal operation. So, while it has not been noticed, your Silverado has probably done several regenerations without your knowledge.


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Old 02-25-2016, 12:20 AM   #24
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Oh, I am sure it has done its thing in the last 15,000 miles. My point was, if the regen is happening along the highway at speed that will hopefully keep the temps down enough to not melt the heck out of your rig. Especially if the heat wrap, that seems to be the failure here, is removed. But, of course, I do not know if I'd want to run that risk with my 400k motorhome. It seems sad that instead of taking the responsibility and correcting an obvious issue everyone points fingers at the "other" guy.
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Old 02-25-2016, 12:55 AM   #25
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Speedmerchant posted in a previous thread about not using an insulating wrap on his tailpipe and now has 12,000 miles without incident. I haven't seen a pickup that uses Diesel particulate filter use insulating wrap on the tailpipe, however, I feel that the material chosen for the tailpipe is more the rust problem than the insulating wrap. The replacement pipe from manufacturer was priced at $80, that does not sound like stainless exhaust pricing. Yet, some designer of the coach had the tailpipe insulated, should a heat issue occur, it would be interesting what the results of a lawsuit would be.


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Old 02-25-2016, 01:50 AM   #26
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Yeah, I would think it would be fine at this point. I guess it was someones bright idea to put it there. If Freightliner put it there I would say it was because they really have "no idea" how their chassis would be used or configured. But sounds like from a previous poster it is a FR addition. At least it is a relatively cheap fix.. Minus the grief causing heat wrap.
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Old 02-25-2016, 10:36 AM   #27
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Rust is caused by oxygen and moisture, it has nothing to do with heat. It forms fast if the moisture is brine (salt).

So if you drive in the rain or travel to humid areas the rust (oxide) will develop sooner.

My advice is to remove the wrap, treat the pipe with a rust preventative then reinstall the wrap.
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:16 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Campin Cajun View Post
Rust is caused by oxygen and moisture, it has nothing to do with heat. It forms fast if the moisture is brine (salt).

So if you drive in the rain or travel to humid areas the rust (oxide) will develop sooner.

My advice is to remove the wrap, treat the pipe with a rust preventative then reinstall the wrap.
Yeah, I guess they did put the wrap there for a reason. Being only $80 for the replacement steel part, my guess is it is very pricey or at least unavailable in a SS version to avoid the rust again?
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Old 02-28-2016, 01:28 PM   #29
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Here is the final result. Stock pipe when I took it off. Completely rusted under the heat sock. New elbow and tip I installed.


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Old 02-28-2016, 01:36 PM   #30
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nice job
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