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Old 11-15-2013, 12:25 PM   #21
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I'll take a blind test with water any day. It's not like I can do anything other than put it back to the tighter position if I do have a leak. Not necessary interested in where it's coming from but rather there is one. That is unless you have "engineering tricks" that you will surely want to share.
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Old 11-15-2013, 03:37 PM   #22
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Victory...at least for now.

Road test in moderate rain yielded no wind noise, no rattles and no water leaks. Also hit it with hose on jet setting around the entire door and no leaks.

The door now latches on the second catch without the need to slam it. We actually also got rid of a mind numbing squeak that was coming from the move-a-bolt.

An easy fix to an annoying problem!
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:52 PM   #23
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Some doors have to slammed to help create a seal while driving.
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:14 PM   #24
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On my 2013 Berk the lower door latch would close, but not the top deadbolt. I filed away, but to no avail. I tried disassembling the jam pin, and sheared off one of the four retention screws (three will hold it securely, thank heavens, because I wasn't able to back the sheared off screw shank out).

Then someone in the trade pointed out that to close it, one had to lean a little weight into closing the door, rather that just using velocity, i.e. don't just slam it quickly, but close it slower while leaning into it a little. WORKS! Boy, did I feel stupid.

Same thing when closing it from the inside; after pulling inward as you slam it, check to see if the deadbolt easily closes. You can tell who has this type of door in a campground - you can't close it properly without making a little noise.

Also, the pin on the jamb is a "floating" (self-centering) design - it's supposed to be moveable. Don't mess with that stuff.
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