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Old 12-06-2014, 06:56 AM   #1
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Slide driver side

I have a 2012 Berkshire 39 bh. My problem is the slide will leak out periodically. What would cause this issue
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:31 AM   #2
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I also have a 2012 390BH and had the same drifting problem. I did extensive investigation as to what was defective and also what made it defective.

The drifting can be caused by either a defective hydraulic manifold valve, the hydraulic cylinder or the ant-creep valve mounted to the cylinder. I had the cylinder and anti creep valve replaced; about a $1,100 job. Fortunately I had insurance to help.

I have found that because the dinette (sofa) cylinder is the longest, it can have unwanted bending forces applied to it because it snakes over a chassis beam and under the timing rod. Although the cylinder is meant to extend and retract, the movement of the slide-room makes it go up and down, which tends to have a prying action applied to i

Refer to the following two threads for more...........

Slide-Out Drifting Troubleshooting

Hydraulic issues with slide and jacks
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Old 12-06-2014, 02:47 PM   #3
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Had same problem. Mine wasn't leaking out it actually was being pushed out under pressure. Don't use the slide locks as the force will break trim. I took mine in for repair and they replaced the manifold, check valves and cylinder. Luckily all this was under warranty or it would of cost me close to 5k for all they did.


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Old 12-06-2014, 08:21 PM   #4
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They upgraded the cylinder to a larger diameter piston to help with the stress of the in and out. That was my main problem when mine was creeping out.


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Old 12-07-2014, 09:10 AM   #5
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They upgraded the cylinder to a larger diameter piston to help with the stress of the in and out. That was my main problem when mine was creeping out.


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Mmnsc, my belief is different. Of course, a 1.5" diameter cylinder is stronger then a 1.375". However, the main culprit with the dinette slide is that it that it presses on the chassis beam. A larger diameter makes matters worse. Check it out for yourself. Lay in the cargo bay towards the center of the RV and see where the cylinder goes over the beam. Stay there and watch what happens when your DW make the slide go out.

The Equalizer Systems Slide Cylinder Identification Chart states that they went from 1 1/2 to 1 3/8.

http://equalizersystems.com/files/sh...inder%20ID.pdf

They are currently only selling the 1 3/8:
Slide out cylinders | Replacement Parts | Online Store | Equalizer Systems | A Days Company | Official Site

I just had mine replaced in October. The problem is not the cylinder strength, but the fact that it gets undesirable forces on it from the chassis beam and this wears the internal seal.

Hank
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Old 12-07-2014, 11:27 AM   #6
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Hank
In June I had to rebuild the timing rod. You can see the thread on that. I had several opportunities to lay in the compartment and watch the in and out movement while getting the timing rod adjusted. My cylinder seemed to flex upward and away from any structural members. If the cylinder shaft gets any kind of scratch or mar it will eventually damage the seals on the cylinder body and eventually cause blow by and the cylinder will start to creep. I don't know if there is any adjustment on positioning the cylinder body or shaft end.
Marty


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Old 12-07-2014, 11:34 AM   #7
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Hank
The bore on my original cylinder that came with the MH was I believe 1 5/16 diameter and the replacement was the new diameter cylinder. That helped a lot after they had changed the anti creep valve twice.


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Old 12-07-2014, 12:23 PM   #8
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Hank
In June I had to rebuild the timing rod. You can see the thread on that. I had several opportunities to lay in the compartment and watch the in and out movement while getting the timing rod adjusted. My cylinder seemed to flex upward and away from any structural members. If the cylinder shaft gets any kind of scratch or mar it will eventually damage the seals on the cylinder body and eventually cause blow by and the cylinder will start to creep. I don't know if there is any adjustment on positioning the cylinder body or shaft end.
Marty


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I suggest that you re-acquaint yourself with the dinette slide. As the slide reaches the last 6 inches of going out, the end of the room drops. This brings the cylinder in contact with the beam.

Hank
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Old 12-09-2014, 10:51 AM   #9
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Hank
I "reacquainted" myself with the slide cylinder. On my MH the is about 1/2 inch between the cylinder shaft and the chassis frame. There is plenty of room for the brush bristles and I could put my finger between the shaft and the frame. On the outward movement of the slide the cylinder bows upward thus giving even more room between the frame and cylinder shaft even when the floor drops into position. On retraction the pull is straight and there is still plenty of clearance. I would suggest you look at yours to see what is wrong and can it be fixed.

Marty


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Old 12-11-2014, 09:50 AM   #10
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Thanks for your reply Marty. Another thought is that when the slide reaches its all the way out, the inside flanges press against the wall and the slide room adjust itself. Depending which way the room was tilted, the end to the cylinder may go up or down, which maybe explains our differences.

I however am not dreaming. I placed paper with some carbon paper between the slide and cylinder and found the pressure mark after the slide went out. Now if you look from the outside in, yes there is a 1/2 inch clearance. But the beam is wide, and if you get your head all the way in where the cylinder is mounted, mine hits the beam. Also if you try to jiggle the cylinder, I saw it binding there.
Hank
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